350 bolt/nut torque value tables?

[R1100purist]

Hello, finally starting to get my k2 back in action from a frame up rebuild, but I have not been able to find torque values for things such as the swing arm nuts, front and rear wheel axles (+half axle stub), countershaft sprocket etc.

Does such a thing exist? Or do you guys have your own home brewed charts/values?

Thanks,
Owen

[3potjohn]

I guess you are like me used to the apparent comfort of having a value for nearly everything assembled dry or oiled as per BMW. Nevertheless quite a few BMW fastners can strip. By using my “ little “ torque wrench I have managed to strip the driveshaft filler and once a gearbox drain bolt on an airhead.Do not mention cylinder studs. So far so good there. None of that 220 NM gearbox flange nut here though.
Few such nasties on the Morini. I am very respectful of the fork drain bolts and do not overdo the oil drain plug. Rocker studs can pull out. Forty odd year old alloy syndrome.
Other than the values in the blue book for such as clutch hub and rotor nut I use either ring spanners or allen keys of a size related to the gauge of the item. I am used to airhead wheel bearing issues but we don’t have these to worry about.
I use a 32 mm ring on the larger rear wheel nut, it being 35 cm long gives a good grunt. If that is about 40Nm I would not be surprised.On my other Morini , a Coguaro I can get the chain adjusters to move the chain unless it is 38NM but this may be still a low value? No idea at all!
Just make sure bolts are clean and any casing screws holes are clean and dry. A blast of carb cleaner works wonders.
There are tables of suggested torque by bolt size on the web which probably will not help.
John

[R1100purist]

Thanks that goes a long way in helping my mindset shift towards the morini’s. I was a airhead (and oil head) guy before this and lived by the torque wrench, but it sounds like it’s less critical to get to the”right” number exactly on these morini’s.

[hendre]

are the correct values not in the service manual? It is for the older models but they are probably not much different
http://www.hofmann-andi.de/downloads/Se ... uch_dt.pdf

[R1100purist]

I can’t find the torque values after searching the manual but maybe I’m just a bad researcher?

[hendre]

page 16 and throughout the text.
This is the Italian/English version: http://morinist.dk/morini/blaabog.pdf

[R1100purist]

I see the engine related torque values but nothing for the swing arm pivot or other chassis pieces, thanks for the help though.

[R1100purist]

Specifically looking for swingarm pivot and wheel axle torques.

[SamT]

Specifically looking for swingarm pivot and wheel axle torques.

Me too

[Steve Brown]

Specifically looking for swingarm pivot and wheel axle torques.

I've never seen these quoted but again as John says above it won't be that critical to get an exact torque value. I normally use the appropriate size socket and a 1/2" drive ratchet or T-bar. (you ought not really be using a ratchet for tightening stuff up-but I bet we all do it)
The same applies for other fasteners not listed in the book (p13 in my blue book) just use a normal size spanner (or wrench if you don't have a spanner ) and then use your hands and don't go swinging on the things. Threads will hold things together nicely if used reasonably sensibly.

With the Swing Arm assembly though it's best to make sure you understand what goes on when you wind the spindle right in, and then keep turning it! Look on youtube for the videos by Paul Compton and Soren Hansen about this assembly. There is adjustment available here and it's well worth getting it right.
Or near enough, as there is no hard and fast 'right' that can be nailed down to a definite value, it's Morini perfection -again!

[R1100purist]

Specifically looking for swingarm pivot and wheel axle torques.

I've never seen these quoted but again as John says above it won't be that critical to get an exact torque value. I normally use the appropriate size socket and a 1/2" drive ratchet or T-bar. (you ought not really be using a ratchet for tightening stuff up-but I bet we all do it)
The same applies for other fasteners not listed in the book (p13 in my blue book) just use a normal size spanner (or wrench if you don't have a spanner ) and then use your hands and don't go swinging on the things. Threads will hold things together nicely if used reasonably sensibly.

With the Swing Arm assembly though it's best to make sure you understand what goes on when you wind the spindle right in, and then keep turning it! Look on youtube for the videos by Paul Compton and Soren Hansen about this assembly. There is adjustment available here and it's well worth getting it right.
Or near enough, as there is no hard and fast 'right' that can be nailed down to a definite value, it's Morini perfection -again!

Steve! I appreciate your answer. I think I’m just having a mindset shift from my previous motorcycle mechanic experience where everything had a spec and a torque as mandated from the factory. I guess I’m just going to rely on old best practices and borrow from Moto guzzi small block knowledge as I go. For example the front axle nut on a small block guzzi is 65 lb ft. Which doesn’t seem too far out of line.

[3potjohn]

You must forget this German doctrine of torque settings! I know it is a difficult thing to do it.
The only time I stripped a thread was the infamously easy to strip drive shaft filler nut on my 60/7, when I used a low range torque wrench.
Rocker studs can pull but otherwise just use appropriate size spanners. All will be well.
John

[Ming]

A well fitting spanner and white knuckles is usually pretty close, I find.