Morini novice
Morini novice
Hello All,
Bought my Morini 3 1/2 sport 1976, last week and I’m seeking recommendations / advice.
Sorry it’s a load of questions!
1. Should I get a fuel additive for running on unleaded ?
2. Engine oil to use ? manual states Castrol GTX2. From old receipts semi synthetic was used last time.
3. Spark plugs to use?
4. Bike won’t idle and bogs down if revs allowed to drop. Starts ok though. Think I’ll go for check / clean of carbs first. Thoughts?
5. Best Mod to improve running? The bikes have electronic ignition from new is there a worthwhile upgrade?
Had my first ride the other day. So different from any other bike, loved it. Can tell it will handle well but getting Avon Road Riders fitted as first investment.
Regards
Phil Hewitt
Bought my Morini 3 1/2 sport 1976, last week and I’m seeking recommendations / advice.
Sorry it’s a load of questions!
1. Should I get a fuel additive for running on unleaded ?
2. Engine oil to use ? manual states Castrol GTX2. From old receipts semi synthetic was used last time.
3. Spark plugs to use?
4. Bike won’t idle and bogs down if revs allowed to drop. Starts ok though. Think I’ll go for check / clean of carbs first. Thoughts?
5. Best Mod to improve running? The bikes have electronic ignition from new is there a worthwhile upgrade?
Had my first ride the other day. So different from any other bike, loved it. Can tell it will handle well but getting Avon Road Riders fitted as first investment.
Regards
Phil Hewitt
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- Posts: 1023
- Joined: 05 May 2006 13:47
- Location: Northampton
Re: Morini novice
Hi Phil,
Welcome to Morini ownership and to the club!
Firstly, whereabouts are you based? there is no substitute for a good natter with other club folk at one of the section meetings, which we are steadily growing as COVID restrictions allow. However, you'll also find this forum a mine of information and good contacts.
I'll chuck my 2p in fist, but others will no doubt be along too
1) No need for a fuel additive. Morinis are kind on their valve gear and I don't think there are any unleaded related woes I have ever heard of. The last morini (dart, excalibur etc) were sold in the unleaded marketplace and I am not aware of a change in spec to the heads.
2) Oil- that's a whole other thread in itself! Everyone has their own favourite, based on availability, use, cost, local climate etc. And remember that even low grade oil now is probably better than what was available in 1974. I would say the most important thing is to change it regularly- Morinis don't have a regular oil filter, relying on a mesh strainer in the sump and sludge traps in the crank. That said, they are reliable motors which have stood the test of time so don't let that put you off. If it's been run on semi synthetic then I would stick to that. There is a search facility in the top right of the forum so if you search for 'oil' you will probably come up with dozens of threads and would be worth a trawl to see what others have said on this in the past.
3) The old favourite was always NGK BP6EV or BP7EV- the gold palladium V plugs. These are no longer available but if you can find some they are really worth the extra money- much improved starting and long life. If not, then the standard BP6ES or BP7ES plugs are fine and easily available. Just avoid resistor plugs and make sure you get the projected tip plugs (the P in the NGK code). Heat range 6 or 7 seems to be the consensus. Personally I run 6 but some prefer a colder 7 plug.
4) Yes, starting with a good carb clean out and balance is a sensible. check float heights and check the floats for leaks if fitted with the white hollow floats. Also worth checking the size of your pilot jets as many have found a reduction in size from stock can help. After that then it's onto checking timing etc. Remember that our dell'ortos have a mixture screw so screwing it in leans it out- you'd be surprised how many people get it the wrong way round. Morini engines are not fussy when properly set up- they should reward you with easy starting, they should idle happily even when cold and should sing all the way to the redline almost like a good 2 stroke when thrashed. If these are not all the case then it's worth the effort to perfect the setup.
5) Don't underestimate the stock setup. The electronic ignition was well specified and really its only problem is the actual age of the components. Others may sing the praises of one system or another but for me, if the stock system is in good health then you won't find much benefit in any alternative ignition system. Well balanced carbs and throttle cables is a must and can transform the way the bike feels.
Glad you're enjoying it already though, and look forward to following your Morini journey of discovery.
Tom
Welcome to Morini ownership and to the club!
Firstly, whereabouts are you based? there is no substitute for a good natter with other club folk at one of the section meetings, which we are steadily growing as COVID restrictions allow. However, you'll also find this forum a mine of information and good contacts.
I'll chuck my 2p in fist, but others will no doubt be along too
1) No need for a fuel additive. Morinis are kind on their valve gear and I don't think there are any unleaded related woes I have ever heard of. The last morini (dart, excalibur etc) were sold in the unleaded marketplace and I am not aware of a change in spec to the heads.
2) Oil- that's a whole other thread in itself! Everyone has their own favourite, based on availability, use, cost, local climate etc. And remember that even low grade oil now is probably better than what was available in 1974. I would say the most important thing is to change it regularly- Morinis don't have a regular oil filter, relying on a mesh strainer in the sump and sludge traps in the crank. That said, they are reliable motors which have stood the test of time so don't let that put you off. If it's been run on semi synthetic then I would stick to that. There is a search facility in the top right of the forum so if you search for 'oil' you will probably come up with dozens of threads and would be worth a trawl to see what others have said on this in the past.
3) The old favourite was always NGK BP6EV or BP7EV- the gold palladium V plugs. These are no longer available but if you can find some they are really worth the extra money- much improved starting and long life. If not, then the standard BP6ES or BP7ES plugs are fine and easily available. Just avoid resistor plugs and make sure you get the projected tip plugs (the P in the NGK code). Heat range 6 or 7 seems to be the consensus. Personally I run 6 but some prefer a colder 7 plug.
4) Yes, starting with a good carb clean out and balance is a sensible. check float heights and check the floats for leaks if fitted with the white hollow floats. Also worth checking the size of your pilot jets as many have found a reduction in size from stock can help. After that then it's onto checking timing etc. Remember that our dell'ortos have a mixture screw so screwing it in leans it out- you'd be surprised how many people get it the wrong way round. Morini engines are not fussy when properly set up- they should reward you with easy starting, they should idle happily even when cold and should sing all the way to the redline almost like a good 2 stroke when thrashed. If these are not all the case then it's worth the effort to perfect the setup.
5) Don't underestimate the stock setup. The electronic ignition was well specified and really its only problem is the actual age of the components. Others may sing the praises of one system or another but for me, if the stock system is in good health then you won't find much benefit in any alternative ignition system. Well balanced carbs and throttle cables is a must and can transform the way the bike feels.
Glad you're enjoying it already though, and look forward to following your Morini journey of discovery.
Tom
Re: Morini novice
Hi Tom,
Many thanks for your advice, very much appreciated.
I have long admired these bikes and they seemed the natural successor to a Ducati 250 I had in the seventies however I ended up getting a Suzuki GT 500 instead!
Anyway better late than never, I’ve got one now and I’m looking forward to doing some fettling over the winter and ride-outs next year.
Regards,
Phil.
(I’m based in Lancashire)
Many thanks for your advice, very much appreciated.
I have long admired these bikes and they seemed the natural successor to a Ducati 250 I had in the seventies however I ended up getting a Suzuki GT 500 instead!
Anyway better late than never, I’ve got one now and I’m looking forward to doing some fettling over the winter and ride-outs next year.
Regards,
Phil.
(I’m based in Lancashire)
Re: Morini novice
Welcome along, Phil.
All of the above but just to add, make sure your plug cap also is the non-resistor type.
If you're set on Avons, you'll find many here agree but I (and others) use and love Bridgestone BT45s.
Also, don't be scared of revving, there's a very happy place between 6k and the red line.
DD in Auckland
All of the above but just to add, make sure your plug cap also is the non-resistor type.
If you're set on Avons, you'll find many here agree but I (and others) use and love Bridgestone BT45s.
Also, don't be scared of revving, there's a very happy place between 6k and the red line.
DD in Auckland
MRC 3082½
Re: Morini novice
Look forward to nice riding, you won’t regret the purchase.
As far as oil goes I use 2.5L of 10-40 semisynthetic oil e.g. from Halfords, though currently they have Mobil with discount for very nearly the same price. I drain carbs out if the bikes are laid up during the winter. Most carb service parts available from Eurocarb. It’s also worth emptying a bike petrol tank right out to remove any contaminants, water, rust etc.I line cleaned out metal tanks with POR15 ( Frosts Motorcycle tank repair kit )which I have had surpass 12 year so far. Another winter job is to check the wiring loom, clean up the blue earth connections and one by one the spade terminals.Vehicle Wiring Products is you friend for wiring terminals etc.I have not done anything radical with the wiring though as it works well enough.
John
As far as oil goes I use 2.5L of 10-40 semisynthetic oil e.g. from Halfords, though currently they have Mobil with discount for very nearly the same price. I drain carbs out if the bikes are laid up during the winter. Most carb service parts available from Eurocarb. It’s also worth emptying a bike petrol tank right out to remove any contaminants, water, rust etc.I line cleaned out metal tanks with POR15 ( Frosts Motorcycle tank repair kit )which I have had surpass 12 year so far. Another winter job is to check the wiring loom, clean up the blue earth connections and one by one the spade terminals.Vehicle Wiring Products is you friend for wiring terminals etc.I have not done anything radical with the wiring though as it works well enough.
John
Re: Morini novice
What they say - plus it is worth looking at the state of the choke plunger rubbers. If they are very worn it is worth replacing the inserts (if you can find them) or the entire unit - which is not an expensive item.
For the ignition, the transducers can be replaced by 'Vespa' ones, or the pick up and transducers from Nuovaray. The ignition coil (exciter) on the stator can deteriorate with age, but can be sent for rewind, or done yourself. The rectifier / regulator can be replaced with an ordinary 2 wire unit capable of handling the output, which is not huge. I use a Boyer PowerBox, others use units from Aliexpress, etc.
It may be easier to search the forum like this: in your browser, type - your query site:morini-riders-club.com/forum, where your query could be what oil, spark plugs, etc.
For the ignition, the transducers can be replaced by 'Vespa' ones, or the pick up and transducers from Nuovaray. The ignition coil (exciter) on the stator can deteriorate with age, but can be sent for rewind, or done yourself. The rectifier / regulator can be replaced with an ordinary 2 wire unit capable of handling the output, which is not huge. I use a Boyer PowerBox, others use units from Aliexpress, etc.
It may be easier to search the forum like this: in your browser, type - your query site:morini-riders-club.com/forum, where your query could be what oil, spark plugs, etc.
Re: Morini novice
One easy thing to check if you have bad running is the electric fuel tap. Sometimes with age they either don't flow enough fuel, or totally seize up.
Gary&Anne
Gary&Anne
Re: Morini novice
Anybody know where the non resistor caps can be found in the UK? I thought the black NGK caps were 'non resistor' but seems not, and the Green Spark Plug Co say they don't sell them....Daddy Dom wrote:Welcome along, Phil.
All of the above but just to add, make sure your plug cap also is the non-resistor type.
If you're set on Avons, you'll find many here agree but I (and others) use and love Bridgestone BT45s.
Also, don't be scared of revving, there's a very happy place between 6k and the red line.
DD in Auckland
Re: Morini novice
NGK's website lists non-resistor type but I think they are too short for Morinis. Come to think of it almost every Morini at our section meeting has the regular type with inbuilt resistors so can't be that bad. Whatever you decide on, make sure the rubbers are a waterproof fit, they come in different sizesAndyB57 wrote: Anybody know where the non resistor caps can be found in the UK? I thought the black NGK caps were 'non resistor' but seems not, and the Green Spark Plug Co say they don't sell them....

Re: Morini novice
NGK SD01F 1 kohm spark plug caps available from EBay as recommended by EV Guru in an earlier post. Seem to work well on my Morini 3 1/2.
Re: Morini novice
you can even make 'm 0 kOhm like factory spec by screwing out the resistor and replacing it by a ballpoint spring
(or brass rod)
(sorry, picture in Dutch but you'll figure it out)

(sorry, picture in Dutch but you'll figure it out)
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Re: Morini novice
Tried unscrewing NGK SB05F caps and failed. They seem to be glued together so bought the SD01F instead.
Re: Morini novice
Thanks, will take a look at my oldest caps to see if I can take it aparthendre wrote:you can even make 'm 0 kOhm like factory spec by screwing out the resistor and replacing it by a ballpoint spring(or brass rod)
(sorry, picture in Dutch but you'll figure it out)

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- Posts: 2578
- Joined: 22 Nov 2008 17:41
- Location: Even further oop North
Re: Morini novice
Ah, that explains why I don't understand Van Gogh!hendre wrote: (sorry, picture in Dutch but you'll figure it out)

Re: Morini novice
Many thanks for the welcome to the club and of course all the advice received.
Cheers,
Phil
Cheers,
Phil