Removing and replacing a steering lock

[julianharty]

I've acquired a 3 1/2 sport, 1979 era with a single front disk and cast wheels. It seems the bike hadn't actually been ridden for years, and hadn't done more than 370 miles in the last 11 years. I've discovered this, and some flawed remedial work by previous owners, means I've got some work to do...

One task is the steering lock, which didn't have a key. NLM don't have any new steering locks, but that wasn't going to stop me finding a way The first task was to remove the current lock.

Removing the cover was easy as I've done it many times before (place a flat screwdriver under the cover and gently lever it off the sticking-out area. A locksmith showed me roughly how to try picking the lock and it turned out to be quite easy when I had a go with the relevant tools, taking perhaps 5 minutes, including soaking it with WD-40, washing it with brake cleaner, and dusting it with graphite powder alternately in between raking the pins in the lock. Levering it out took about another 10 minutes as it didn't want to come out and it was hard to find enough leverage - I succeeded by a combination of pulling with one of the lock picks, keeping the lock turned to nearly full anti-clockwise (about 80 degrees on this particular lock) so the main locking pin in the shaft was clear of obstructions, and using an old flat head screwdriver blade in combination. I also wiggled the lock a lot and sprayed yet more WD-40 and brake cleaner down the side of the lock to try and un-gunge the lock body in the shaft.

Here's a useful link (mentioned in an old post) about removing and replacing similar locks on BMW bikes http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/lock/index.htm

My next step is to find a suitable replacement. There are various steering locks for older Vespas that look similar. My one measures roughly 39mm long with the top ridge being about 4.6mm wide. There are Vespa ones advertised at 30mm (too short) and 39mm (seems fine) and with 4mm and 6mm widths of the shoulder. The hole in the frame is about 5.6mm wide so I've ordered a wider 39mm long steering lock from a German supplier via ebay.co.uk I'd also managed to lose my cover and push-fit rivet after leaving it loose in the headstock and going for a winter test ride (oops) so I've ordered some replacement Vespa covers (5 of them) and rivet pins.

I'll post updates, including links, here. I hope this'll help some people find replacements and also the courage to try picking their own lock.

[P&S]

hi Julian,
this is the right one:
http://www.lavespadue.it/ricambi-access ... gp.8798.uw

[julianharty]

Thank you Paolo, so a 4mm one.

I'll post an update once I've received and tried to fit the wider one. There's certainly a gap along the side of the bridge area over 1mm. The 4mm versions are easily available online for around £10 in the UK. I'l buy one of those if I can't get the wider one to behave.

I notice you're in Rome, Italy so it might be a good excuse to ride this bike to visit you next year. I've ridden my 501 engined K1 to Como area and Aosta (from England) a few years ago. Be good to find an excuse for another long ride on a Morini.

[AntietamClassicCycle]

That appears to be the same one used on Airhead BMWs and Moto Guzzis.

[P&S]

This is another one that surely fits. (is the one I bought for my 3 1/2)
http://www.ebay.it/itm/Serratura-blocca ... 2548.l4275

[MickeyMoto]

I have just removed the lock from my Laverda. I drilled it out as the metal is very soft. I got a replacement from Slaters Laverda. When the spare arrives I'll get the price and measure it up.

Mike.

[mgelder]

This is a really useful thread for me as I'm in the process of removing / replacing / destroying the lock on the Kanguro.

I bought one of those lokcing picking kits off eBay and can unlock the test lock and have had success with some other padlocks I've got knocking about, but the steering lock on the Kanguro appears to be seized; there's no rotation between the barrel and lock body at all.

I've tried various penetrating fluids with no luck, so I think it's going to need drilling out and replacing. I was hoping to be doing that over Christmas but an ill girlfriend and three raucous foster kids have put paid to anything motorcycle related

Still, if all else fails I've learned how to pick locks, a skill which is bound to come in useful at some point....

[julianharty]

@mgelder The locksmith started with a can of WD-40 on my steering lock. I rotated between sprays to try and increase the chances of freeing up the lock e.g. mine (once removed) had lots of gummy grease which was restricting it's movement in the headstock.

He wanted to free the pins in the lock so focused on spraying into the keyhole. He 'raked' the pins (by running one of the lock picking tools) backwards and forwards fairly rapidly across the pins (so an in and out movement). The trick with the lock picking seems to be the gentle twisting using a second tool (the one I used looks a bit like a Z shape, you should find something similar in your lock picking kit) while also raking the pins more gently (slowly) than before.

Do read http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/lock/index.htm about where to drill the lock if you decide to remove it that way. Where to drill is roughly at 2 o'clock in order to free up the metal pin that locates the lock in the headstock. The CIA also publish an extensive guide on lock-picking if you decide to practice.

BTW on a somewhat unrelated note, I learned from my home insurance that they only pay if there's been forcible entry into the house - if someone picks our locks then we don't seem to be covered. We have to hope any thieves are brutes, not artisans!

[julianharty]

Oh, and the 'obvious' once you know - turn the lock anti-clockwise when trying to unlock it. But first aim at simply freeing up the pins and the rotation. You might find a thin flat-bladed screwdriver helpful by trying to fit it first one side, then the other of the bridge area (the tall bit at the top of the lock). I used an old screwdriver blade for several minutes to help free up the lock's movement so I could overcome the stiction/friction/gunk to pull the lock out. Brake cleaner spray either side of the top hat area (and generally) may help free up the gunk so the lock can move. GT85, WD-40, etc provide a light lubricant afterwards.

[AntietamClassicCycle]

If I have the front end off (steering stem not in the headstock), I just hit the lock dead center with a punch and large hammer. This breaks off a small screw that locates it in the hole, then the lock comes right out. You don't want to do it with the steering stem in place, or you could damage the stem and the small screw could fall into the lower bearing jamming it up.

[3potjohn]

I've had to drill mine out after losing all the keys on a ride when the fob fell to pieces.I found most on the road 2 days later which was a piece of luck, not the steering lock one however. I previously drilled one out of my BMW R60/7, fitted a new lock and left the key in situ.I then put the bike on the centre stand and the forks turned and nearly sheared the key off in the new lock.Genius!