Oil consumption

[Steve Brown]

Ahh Norbert, how warm is 'warm'? Is there a figure quoted for that? Italian summer warm may be standard but Northern Europe warm is a different ISO scale I think...

[norbert]

I´m living in Luebeck/Baltic Sea. Tomorrow is suposed to be a hot day and I´m gonna meet Sören from Denmark to have a ride down to the South next to Bremen to assist the wedding of another morinidriver (moriniriders don´t have no fear! )

norbert

[Daddy Dom]

Another variable is whether or not the OP is pushing the dipstick as far into the hole as possible or just resting it on top to take a measurement. I've never known which is ideal but my oil level is always within dipstick markings at 2.5 litres however I seat the dipstick!
DD

[EVguru]

In the manual is written that you should adjust valve clearance on a warm motor. Is there anybody doing so?

norbert

Where is it written?

Not in the 'Blue Book' where "the engine is cold" is both bold and underlined.

Not in the Harglo manual.

Not in the 500 handbook.
Not in the 350 handbook.
Not in the 250 twin handbook
Not in the Excalibur RLX handbook.

Not in the Cagiva era engine manual.

[3potjohn]

Well I've had a C15, an A65, a T150, a T160, a T140, a le Mans, a R60/5, a R60/7, a R100RS, a 350 Sport, a Suffolk Colt and a Qualcast 35S and I have never countenanced doing tappets on a warm engine and I do not intend to try it. But I have used a lot of oil.......
John

[corsaro chris]

Pat;

Back on the topic of this thread; I like the sound of the suggestion of just putting 2.5 litres in - normally I just fill up to the mid point of the dip stick, measured when fully pushed home, and check it after the first long run and then after every couple of petrol refills. Note that the Harglo manual suggests that you drain oil in to a tray with a minimum capacity of 3 litres (which suggests that it's less than 3 litres that you are taking out!)

If it continues to loose oil you'd then know that you have a problem - but overfilling does result in all of the things that Paul mentions. If you ask for advice, you can always try it -if there is no loss then we'll all know what the fault was, which helps us all.

One longish run (100 miles, 160 km) isn't going to use all your oil; and you can always do a loop with a spare bottle if you're that concerned!

Try it, and let us know the result...

(and on adjusting tappets - most workshop manuals will tell you to adjust with the engine cold - I've just dug the Velo manual off the shelf as well, so that even includes old engines like air-cooled Morinis...)

Good riding,

CC

[norbert]

In the manual is written that you should adjust valve clearance on a warm motor. Is there anybody doing so?

norbert

Where is it written?

Not in the 'Blue Book' where "the engine is cold" is both bold and underlined.

Not in the Harglo manual.

Not in the 500 handbook.
Not in the 350 handbook.
Not in the 250 twin handbook
Not in the Excalibur RLX handbook.

Not in the Cagiva era engine manual.

In the Workshop Manual (that one in 5 languages) you can find on the page D.8 in german: "Prüfen und Einstellen des Ventilstößelspiels bei warmen Motor." Warm means warm also in german. Here in Germany everybody knows this fault I´ve allways thought that this mistakes would apear in all the languages, never checked it. But now I´ve seen that it isn´t so, it´s only in the german text

norbert

[MickeyMoto]

I know it says cold, but if you adjust the clearances at 20 degrees will there be a difference if they are adjusted at -5? Just wondering as most of my maintenance is done in the winter

[Steve Brown]

There are some bikes that need the valve clearances set with a warm engine-some Matchless/AJS singles do. You should see the tizzies some of their owners get into over 'how warm is warm?'

We've got it pretty cushy, to be fair!

[SupermotoDave]

Going back to the oil capacity, I have before me a small number of dealer service notes from the UK importer.
Significant modifications since introduction of Morini 3/1/2 dated 22nd February 1978 states amongst other things
-Oil level raised and capacity increased from 2 1/2 to 3 litres
-Dished outer steel clutch plate introduced to improve drive take up

Just for info you understand, I don't want to upset any long held views or the current knowledge based on 40 years experience.


David

[Daddy Dom]

So ... with most of us firmly in the 2.5l camp and a few "experimenters" still out there, would it be a blaphemy to suggest they try 2.75 litres and we can all go back to bed?
DD

[EVguru]

The only real reason to increase the oil quantity would be to lower the oil temperature.

Modern oil is better able to perform at higher temperatures (particularly if semi, or full synthetic) and higher temperatures may in fact be beneficial given relatively short runs and occasional use.

A higher oil level might even be counterproductive in lowering oil temperatures if it results in more 'churn'. This is particularly true of the 500 with it's longer stroke.

The increasing of the oil level roughly coincides with the introduction of the plain bearing timing side bearing. The oil pump gearing was raised at the same time and the factory may have decided that more oil was a good idea at the time. Later manuals return to 2.5 litres of semi-synthetic (Sint Agip 2000).

BTW, the 'Blue Book' lists Castrol RS as an alternative oil, which was a full synthetic and allowed an extended oil change interval.

[Pat]

Since I lit the blue touch paper and retreated 10 yds, I have covered another 900ks, and can report that the disappearing oil has definitely stopped disappearing as quickly. Only took 150mils to restore to gnats cock below maximum and I only put that in to see how much had gone. Suspect It's a little of everything, think the semi synthetic has extended the running in period (mileage) as it's superior lubricant. Can't believe I ran it in too slowly, I have little mechanical sympathy Which is why I don't have British bikes. How about some MRC "3 LITRE club" t-shirts? Re valve clearances hot and cold- that could run and run...can't wait!

[pedro]

Pat, I have sent you a pm

[MickeyMoto]

Kanguro and Camel 501 manual - 2.5l of Agip Sint 2000