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robint wrote:Clearly failed in the man part as I followed instructions...... As I used the PVL coils that was probably the trickiest bit to make sure of clearance under the tank - both coils needed to face backwards. A few cables needed making up from the box to the coils, rev counter, fuse box and earth so a half decent crimping tool useful, along with wires of different colours. Joined the rev counter lead under the tank, the others were just run to the terminals instructed. As the coil for the front cylinder now faced backwards it needed a new HT lead to reach, fortunately had one in the cupboard/loft. Initial setting of static timing is easy enough, though with marks on one side of the bike and LED on the other need good access to both sides!

Been out for a run today in between the showers and no problems, pulling cleanly from tickover (still reliable at 14-1600rpm) to max revs and also pulling well in top gear from 70-85mph. Some tingly vibration at lower revs so may try the other curves - currently on 5 - but suspect that may be when the weather is more encouraging!!

Thanks for the summary, sounds straightforward enough (but watch this space.... ). Ordering cable and coils today. Your results so far are very encouraging, enjoy the ride when weather permits!

Hi all,

I too used the PVL coil set and rather strangely I found the best fit (on my 1980 Strada) was to have both coils facing forwards rather than backwards. This seemed to help avoid fouling the standard airbox fitted to my bike and gives enough clearance under the tank. Also, as I no longer use the electronic petrol tap I used the switched live supply from the junction box near the steering head to feed the coils - this just avoids running another line back to the fusebox. I put the electronic box under the left side panel using a cut down piece of perspex to mount it. That was probably the bit that took me the longest and I agree completely with robint that a good crimping tool and right calibre wires make it pretty straightforward otherwise.

In terms of getting up and running, the static timing described in the instructions is a good starting point, but a strobe is also needed to get it spot on. If, like me, you only have timing marks for one cylinder scribed onto the rotor you will also need to spend a happy hour getting the cover off and getting that marked up. Then you can get both cylinders adjusted right. Now I'm also waiting for better weather to play with the ignition maps...but my bike now starts first time every time on the very tiniest prod of the starter. Happy days indeed!

All best,

David.

Glad to hear all these positive comments about the Sachse system.

If you are looking for decent crimping pliers for non insulated terminals I can thoroughly recommend Knipex 97 21 215 B I have tried many pliers and these are the best I've ever used. The steel is twice as thick as others, Comfortable handle and the neatest crimps. Not the cheapest available but will last a lifetime.

For example..

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KNIPEX-97-21 ... SwvxBefg10

Cheers,

Kamel.

Kamel wrote:Glad to hear all these positive comments about the Sachse system.

Indeed. I started my 2C/375 after the engine swap yesterday. Second kick, once I remembered to re-attach the green wire. Even got the pickup connections to the NLM module the right way round on the first attempt. When I have it all sorted out and roadworthy again (had to deal with slightly ovel front single engine mounting holes), I really will get round to fitting the SWF system I have ready, as a comparison. The programmable timing curve function of the Sachse is very tempting though.

Having now moved into Tier 4 (Yay - top of the league....!!) does trying different Sachse programmes count as essential travel??

robint wrote:Having now moved into Tier 4 (Yay - top of the league....!!) does trying different Sachse programmes count as essential travel??

Oh, most definitely.

david3661 wrote:Hi all,

"In terms of getting up and running, the static timing described in the instructions is a good starting point, but a strobe is also needed to get it spot on."
All best,

David.

Hi David,
To get the timing spot on for No. 2 cylinder, I guess you rotated the magnet rotor until it was in the right spot for the strobe before finally applying Loctite to the the grub screws?

Cheers,

Kamel.

Hi, I couldn't claim this to be what is needed on all Morini's, but on my bike (1979 Strada) the flywheel is only marked with an ignition advance mark for the front cylinder (ANT1). It does though have marks for TDC for both cylinders PMS1 and PMS2. So what I had to do was take the starter cover off and make a mark on the rotor for ANT2. I did this by putting a piece of tape on the rotor from PMS2 which was the same distance as that between ANT1 and PMS1. And that gives you where ANT2 should be, if you get my drift. Sounds trickier than it is! Once I had the two marks I could then strobe the rear cylinder and tweak back and forth the position of the Sachse magnetic disc until it was OK at +4,000 RPM (full advance). Then fix that in place with the grub screws/loctite. After that you can strobe the front cylinder and tweak the location of the second PCB (the little one with the slots in it).

I think it would be quite a bit easier if you already have two sets of marks on the rotor. I guess Morini didn't think you needed to have the other mark as you couldn't adjust the ignition for each cylinder.

Hope this makes sense!

Regards,

David.

Didn't anybody go to maths lessons at school and learn how to convert degrees to radians or were they round the back of the bike sheds with the scool bikes?

No fortunately, and no sadly

harrymuffin wrote:Didn't anybody go to maths lessons at school and learn how to convert degrees to radians or were they round the back of the bike sheds with the scool bikes?

While you were learning to convert degrees to radians, you obviously missed English Grammar (or spellcheck) it's "School"


Cheers,

Kamel.

david3661 wrote:Hi, I couldn't claim this to be what is needed on all Morini's, but on my bike (1979 Strada) the flywheel is only marked with an ignition advance mark for the front cylinder (ANT1). It does though have marks for TDC for both cylinders PMS1 and PMS2. So what I had to do was take the starter cover off and make a mark on the rotor for ANT2. I did this by putting a piece of tape on the rotor from PMS2 which was the same distance as that between ANT1 and PMS1. And that gives you where ANT2 should be, if you get my drift. Sounds trickier than it is! Once I had the two marks I could then strobe the rear cylinder and tweak back and forth the position of the Sachse magnetic disc until it was OK at +4,000 RPM (full advance). Then fix that in place with the grub screws/loctite. After that you can strobe the front cylinder and tweak the location of the second PCB (the little one with the slots in it).

I think it would be quite a bit easier if you already have two sets of marks on the rotor. I guess Morini didn't think you needed to have the other mark as you couldn't adjust the ignition for each cylinder.

Hope this makes sense!

Regards,

David.

Thanks David, it makes perfect sense.

Cheers,

Kamel.

Every day a scool day it would seem!

[quote="Kamel"... English Grammar (or spellcheck) it's "School" ...Kamel.[/quote]

It's Skule, as any fule kno (and spelt with an S if a name, s if a description). Not to be pedantic

And Harry - yes, I am THAT Ming...

Ming wrote:

Kamel wrote:... English Grammar (or spellcheck) it's "School" ...Kamel.

It's Skule, as any fule kno (and spelt with an S if a name, s if a description). Not to be pedantic

And Harry - yes, I am THAT Ming...

<Klaxon> Skool !