I have recently converted my Camel MkII to electric start. I installed a NOCO NLP5 250A Lithium Iron battery, but it keeps tripping out. I have contacted NOCO, and they think the starter may be drawing too much current for that size of battery. Can someone advise on the original spec. of the battery please? all I can find is that they were 18AH, but that leaves a lot of choices. Also if somebody knows whet the current draw is of a 500 starter that would be very helpful.
Regards,
Kamel.
500 battery spec. & CCA requirement
Re: 500 battery spec. & CCA requirement
After having the starter solenoid welding its contacts on my 350K2, I thought I would investigate the current draw. The starter solenoid fitted was a Lucas item with no part number on it. I fitted a 200A rated item, took out the sparkplugs, and using a DC clamp ammeter got the following results. Peak current was around 134A on initial press of the starter button, settling down to 108A steady current draw. Obviously the calibration of the ammeter will affect these figures. The current draw 'loaded' ie. spark plugs in would be greater than these figures. I guess a 500 engine would have a greater current draw. I use a Odyssey PC680 battery (CCA SAE 170A) in the 350K2 (spins the engine effortlessly) which could be overkill as a PC545 (CCA SAE 150A) would probably suffice. The PC545 was the standard fitment in the Moto Guzzi 1100 Sport Injection I used to have. I got a service life of eight years out of the Odyssey PC545. Hope this is of some use.
Regards,
Francis
Regards,
Francis
Re: 500 battery spec. & CCA requirement
I had a PC680 in my e-start 350 when I bought the bike in 2007.I did not determine how old it was. I would use one again, however I bought a Xtreme600 because it was cheaper. I had a starter relay weld on in the paddock at Cadwell years ago and had to kick the relay to stop the electric motor.
Re: 500 battery spec. & CCA requirement
Hi Francis and John,
Sincere apologies for not responding to your (very helpful) replies. I haven’t been doing much on the Morini recently, so forgot to check back in for replies. I did contact NOCO and they actually sent me a replacement battery, however, it behaves exactly the same, so I guess the starter is drawing more current than it can supply and is shutting down to protect itself. I’m now looking at alternatives, but being as it’s a Camel, space is a bit tight.
Sincere apologies for not responding to your (very helpful) replies. I haven’t been doing much on the Morini recently, so forgot to check back in for replies. I did contact NOCO and they actually sent me a replacement battery, however, it behaves exactly the same, so I guess the starter is drawing more current than it can supply and is shutting down to protect itself. I’m now looking at alternatives, but being as it’s a Camel, space is a bit tight.
Re: 500 battery spec. & CCA requirement
Hi Kamel,
I would check that there isn't a high resistance in the rest of the starter circuit. The 200amp relay I fitted was this one;
https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk ... ent-relays
I have read of 100 amp relays being fitted. Personally I wouldn't as you want to have good 'headroom' on the spec. The contact faces welding themselves is the final stage of relay failure. As the contact faces in the relay start to deteriorate, they will definitely offer a higher resistance, which would give the symptoms of a 'tired' battery, instead of the real issue.(Back in the day I used to check the contact faces on 18KV 3A 3 phase contactors on high power Analogue TV transmitters). I also replaced the high current cables (both positive and negative) with the nearest length equivalents from Halfords, which were reasonably priced. Probably overkill, but the originals were forty years old, and you cannot check the corrosion behind the heavy duty crimp connections. With the very high current draw of a starter motor, it takes just a very small increase in resistance to drop the volts getting to the starter motor.
Regards,
Francis
I would check that there isn't a high resistance in the rest of the starter circuit. The 200amp relay I fitted was this one;
https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk ... ent-relays
I have read of 100 amp relays being fitted. Personally I wouldn't as you want to have good 'headroom' on the spec. The contact faces welding themselves is the final stage of relay failure. As the contact faces in the relay start to deteriorate, they will definitely offer a higher resistance, which would give the symptoms of a 'tired' battery, instead of the real issue.(Back in the day I used to check the contact faces on 18KV 3A 3 phase contactors on high power Analogue TV transmitters). I also replaced the high current cables (both positive and negative) with the nearest length equivalents from Halfords, which were reasonably priced. Probably overkill, but the originals were forty years old, and you cannot check the corrosion behind the heavy duty crimp connections. With the very high current draw of a starter motor, it takes just a very small increase in resistance to drop the volts getting to the starter motor.
Regards,
Francis