They all do that Sir. Now a happy Morinist
They all do that Sir. Now a happy Morinist
Hi all.
I’ve had my Morini for 5 years now, I’m only now getting it how I like it. Many reasons for this working abroad at times and also chucking it in back of garage at times when things go wrong but reading the wisdom of this site has helped me get it going nicely, just in time to put it away for winter. One reason for this is if something isent as good as I think it should be I don’t know if there all like that or should be better. Well with the help of rage fourum it is better now
Problem was bad starting and idling, finally when getting the bike ready to put on a dyno the electrical system packed in, so after reading the forum I had a big breath in and ordered a Sachse ignition system and coils. What a difference it has made to the bike once fitted. From a bike that was a complete pig to start at times to one that kick over 1st or 2nd time hot or cold whatever. The bike has a 500 engine fitted and now hit the heights of 32 bhp on the dyno. With such a healthy pull through the Rev range. For me money well spent.
I also didn’t get on with the breaks they felt wooden at speed and the last 10 mph was hard to scrub off. So I followed the advice from the site and bought a master cylinder from a Honda CM450, It works, then put on new pads even better, I have a new disc but can’t get it to run true, I get pulsing at the break leaver.
So just a big thanks for the combined wisdom of the Forum. I’m a happy Morinist
Dave
I’ve had my Morini for 5 years now, I’m only now getting it how I like it. Many reasons for this working abroad at times and also chucking it in back of garage at times when things go wrong but reading the wisdom of this site has helped me get it going nicely, just in time to put it away for winter. One reason for this is if something isent as good as I think it should be I don’t know if there all like that or should be better. Well with the help of rage fourum it is better now
Problem was bad starting and idling, finally when getting the bike ready to put on a dyno the electrical system packed in, so after reading the forum I had a big breath in and ordered a Sachse ignition system and coils. What a difference it has made to the bike once fitted. From a bike that was a complete pig to start at times to one that kick over 1st or 2nd time hot or cold whatever. The bike has a 500 engine fitted and now hit the heights of 32 bhp on the dyno. With such a healthy pull through the Rev range. For me money well spent.
I also didn’t get on with the breaks they felt wooden at speed and the last 10 mph was hard to scrub off. So I followed the advice from the site and bought a master cylinder from a Honda CM450, It works, then put on new pads even better, I have a new disc but can’t get it to run true, I get pulsing at the break leaver.
So just a big thanks for the combined wisdom of the Forum. I’m a happy Morinist
Dave
Re: They all do that Sir. Now a happy Morinist
I tried to add a picture but told file size to big 

Re: They all do that Sir. Now a happy Morinist
Thanks Hendre.
Re: They all do that Sir. Now a happy Morinist
Re your pulsing front brake: have you tried putting a dial indicator on the disc and checking whether it does actually run out of true? Is the disc mounted on bobbins or bolted solidly to the hub? If the former, the bobbins may be too tight and stopping the disc from floating. If it's a solid mount, you could try shims on some of the bolts to get it true. If it's actually a used disc, maybe the surface has got zones with different friction characteristics which would also cause pulsing.
Hope you can get it fixed, because it certainly reduces your confidence when you want to slow down!
Nick
Hope you can get it fixed, because it certainly reduces your confidence when you want to slow down!
Nick
Re: They all do that Sir. Now a happy Morinist
Just to add to all the good stuff Nick said there,
If you replace a disk to make sure that the wheel hub face is flat and clean of paint, debris and corrosion.
If the bolts are of unknown origin and/or old I would replace with appropriate high tensile bolts (socket cap)
with new full nyloc nuts (not from screwfix) and torque evenly and equally.
Mark
If you replace a disk to make sure that the wheel hub face is flat and clean of paint, debris and corrosion.
If the bolts are of unknown origin and/or old I would replace with appropriate high tensile bolts (socket cap)
with new full nyloc nuts (not from screwfix) and torque evenly and equally.
Mark
Re: They all do that Sir. Now a happy Morinist
Hi all.
The disc is new by Roy Thursby, when I previously put it on it did run out, I sent it back and Roy skimmed it. Put it back on not as bad but not right. The disc is a tight fit over the hub on wheel, the alloys wheels may have been painted in past. Was going to gently remove a bit of paint as this may be the problem. I think the disc fits flush to alloy wheel, when I took it of 1st time it had witnessed marked from the alloy wheel on back of disc so I think it is fitting flush.
Yep DTI would be good to measure how far out it is.
On a different note, on the speedo drive in front hub there is a rubber seal, presumably this is to stop water ingress and grease getting out? I managed to bust it MDINA don’t have any, does anybody know a supplier?
Dave
The disc is new by Roy Thursby, when I previously put it on it did run out, I sent it back and Roy skimmed it. Put it back on not as bad but not right. The disc is a tight fit over the hub on wheel, the alloys wheels may have been painted in past. Was going to gently remove a bit of paint as this may be the problem. I think the disc fits flush to alloy wheel, when I took it of 1st time it had witnessed marked from the alloy wheel on back of disc so I think it is fitting flush.
Yep DTI would be good to measure how far out it is.
On a different note, on the speedo drive in front hub there is a rubber seal, presumably this is to stop water ingress and grease getting out? I managed to bust it MDINA don’t have any, does anybody know a supplier?
Dave
Re: They all do that Sir. Now a happy Morinist
Hi, I think many ancillaries, like the speedo drive, are common to many Italian bikes of that era. Might be worth searching for the seal on Guzzi sites, or just speedo drive seal?
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Re: They all do that Sir. Now a happy Morinist
Measure it and buy an off the shelf seal. I am sure it won't be a one off. Maybe it is? Unfortunately, the parts book does not give the size.
Re: They all do that Sir. Now a happy Morinist
Maybe Guzzibits or Simply Bearings can help if you can get the dimensions.
John
John
Re: They all do that Sir. Now a happy Morinist
Hi, Try Tom Ros in the Netherlands, he had some of those seals - new old stock - part number 43 07 15.
Regards, Ian Dyckhoff
Regards, Ian Dyckhoff
Re: They all do that Sir. Now a happy Morinist
If it's the part I'm thinking of, there are two sizes, depending whether it's the large or small diameter drive. I think I have a large diameter one.MickeyMoto wrote: Unfortunately, the parts book does not give the size.

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Re: They all do that Sir. Now a happy Morinist
I think it may depend on whether you have an early Sport drum brake, an early Strada drum brake, a wire wheeled disk brake Sport, a cast wheel, disc braked Sport / Strada (1FD) or a K1 /K2 (3FD)!