Folks, I'm after advice on Removing rear cylinder barrel in situ on a Camel 500. I can get the head out and lift the barrel clear of the studs, but the liner is too wide to pass between the studs. I cannot see any reference to doing this in the manual or on here. I'm thinking of removing one stud. Has anybody done that, or is there another method? (without removing the engine).
Cheers,
Kamel
Removing rear cylinder barrel in situ
Re: Removing rear cylinder barrel in situ
Take off the front mounting plates (and exhaust pipes, disconect the airfilters or carbs and stuff like that) and then the upper bolt of the two ones at the rear end of the motor. Loosen the under bolt you can tip the motor a bit to to the front. That should do the work.
That´s how I can take of the rear head of a 501 in a 350 street frame
That´s how I can take of the rear head of a 501 in a 350 street frame
-
- Posts: 392
- Joined: 12 Sep 2010 12:25
Re: Removing rear cylinder barrel in situ
As with all 500 twin shock frames you can remove the rear cylinder barrel in situ
The barrel needs to be tilted whilst taking it off the studs; it's all a bit tight and the studs will 'spring' over the liner a bit if you get a bit stuck
I did it earlier this year on a 500 Camel, it was a bit of a fiddle to begin with as I hadn't done it for a few years!
Good luck, Ian
PS If using new pattern gaskets always check first that they fit over the stud shoulders and clear the push rod tunnel
Allen bolt hole as I've had some in the past from NLM where the holes were too small
The barrel needs to be tilted whilst taking it off the studs; it's all a bit tight and the studs will 'spring' over the liner a bit if you get a bit stuck
I did it earlier this year on a 500 Camel, it was a bit of a fiddle to begin with as I hadn't done it for a few years!
Good luck, Ian
PS If using new pattern gaskets always check first that they fit over the stud shoulders and clear the push rod tunnel
Allen bolt hole as I've had some in the past from NLM where the holes were too small
Re: Removing rear cylinder barrel in situ
Thanks both. I'll have another crack at it today and report back.
Re: Removing rear cylinder barrel in situ
After faffing around for a while I decided to remove the front left stud. From what I learned here is the best way to do it:
I hope this helps others.
Cheers,
Kamel.
- Make sure the piston is at TDC
- Add two M8 nuts to the top of the stud and wind them down just enough to get full thread engagement on both, then lock them together.
- Lift the barrel and base gasket as high as you can without allowing the rings to pop out.
- Using a 13mm spanner apply even force to the lower locked nut while playing a gas torch on the crankcase close to the base of the stud
- Eventually the stud will release
- Continue to unscrew the stud until its clear of the crankcase
- Lift the barrel out complete with the stud
I hope this helps others.
Cheers,
Kamel.
Re: Removing rear cylinder barrel in situ
That´s one way to do it.
Because I don´t like very much to remove the studs I prefer to take off the mounting plates and exhaust and carburator of the front colinder.
Because I don´t like very much to remove the studs I prefer to take off the mounting plates and exhaust and carburator of the front colinder.
Re: Removing rear cylinder barrel in situ
That is an interesting method so well done. As a BMW airhead owner I am “allergic “ to playing around with cylinder studs in 43 year old alloy. When it is my turn I will drop the engine approach.
John
John
Re: Removing rear cylinder barrel in situ
I know what you mean, but I hope this won’t be a regular occurrence