Hi guys,
I am still playing with my Camel 500 after rebuilt (done some 700 km's after total rebuilt). I noticed a noice qetting worse from The flywheel area and i had experience with a loosing crankshaft pulley on a 500 before. So I got a bit frightend that is why i had to check the crankshaft pulley just to be sure. The pulley could be shifted a bit more on the crankshaft towards the bearing and seal. There was no play in between pulley and the crankshaft end, so the key should be ok! I also noticed that the toothed belt (Optibelt) was a little loose, Ok that is strange, i thought, i will change it staight away.
But what is did find what worries me is that there is 1/10 th of a millimeter of axial play (front to back, not up and down) on the crankshaft. And now with sweat i my hands i am asking one of you experts here if that is normal on a Morini. You can feel the play on the flywheel also, front to back, just a little notch.
Any answers on this topic that calms me down are very welcome
Axial play on crankschaft Camel 500
- George 350
- Posts: 485
- Joined: 16 Jun 2007 09:43
- Location: Northampton
Re: Axial play on crankschaft Camel 500
Hi Tom.
Providing that the flywheel is correctly fitted and that its taper is good, if you have any play either radial (up/down, forward/backwards) of the flywheel then the RHS 'plain' main bearing is on its way out.
If the play is axial (can pull flywheel in and out across the bike) then the LHS ball bearing is on its way out as this controls end float. I know that there is a tiny amount of axial movement in the ball bearing, but in practice it is truly minimal. Certainly on the 350's this bearing is almost indestructible, but someone else on here will hopefully confirm that the 500/501's used a different style of ball bearing? (4 point contact is somewhere in the back of my mind?)
Whatever, only you know how much free movement you have, but 'my' reality is any play is no good and should be investigated otherwise it can get very expensive very quickly!
Regards,
George
Providing that the flywheel is correctly fitted and that its taper is good, if you have any play either radial (up/down, forward/backwards) of the flywheel then the RHS 'plain' main bearing is on its way out.
If the play is axial (can pull flywheel in and out across the bike) then the LHS ball bearing is on its way out as this controls end float. I know that there is a tiny amount of axial movement in the ball bearing, but in practice it is truly minimal. Certainly on the 350's this bearing is almost indestructible, but someone else on here will hopefully confirm that the 500/501's used a different style of ball bearing? (4 point contact is somewhere in the back of my mind?)
Whatever, only you know how much free movement you have, but 'my' reality is any play is no good and should be investigated otherwise it can get very expensive very quickly!
Regards,
George
George
350 sport 1978, 350 Strada 1978
650 Norton 1967, 650 Kawasaki 1977 and 650 Enfield 2019
350 sport 1978, 350 Strada 1978
650 Norton 1967, 650 Kawasaki 1977 and 650 Enfield 2019
-
- Posts: 390
- Joined: 12 Sep 2010 12:25
Re: Axial play on crankschaft Camel 500
Hi Tom, I have a 500 Camel engine on the bench with the clutch and primary drive cover removed, I've just checked the crank for movement in all directions and there no movement at all.
If it is end float it might be worth checking that the ring nut on the crank is tight; and if you remove the oil pump and primary drive gear you should be able to feel if the movement is in the bearing.
Good luck, regards Ian
If it is end float it might be worth checking that the ring nut on the crank is tight; and if you remove the oil pump and primary drive gear you should be able to feel if the movement is in the bearing.
Good luck, regards Ian
Re: Axial play on crankschaft Camel 500
Hi Guys,
Thanks a lot.
Axial play at the right side is now solved!
This is what happenend: the pulley could be tapped on a mm further on the crank. That was the first faulty thing. The other was a very slappy Optibelt toothed belt. I am hearing stories about people not happy with Optibelt, unless you install the right on (The 'C' variant). This is also going on with Gates, so i am told, and i myself is very pleased with Mitshiboshi (they seem to be the only one mentioning Morini in the catalogue). Installed everything back on again, and away is the play, fewww.
Now, whith that done, i lifted the cover of the left hand case. All ok there, just some screws needed retighting. But, i am suspicious about the ring nut not being torqued enough, so i will get rid of the old one and use a brand new one with the correct amount of torque with a correct torguewrench. Use some loctide. The job done as it should be done i guess?
Lesson learned: Always trust your intuition, such simple things can be overlooked eaaasily! Also with the so called professionals or people in a hurry.
Thanks a lot.
Axial play at the right side is now solved!
This is what happenend: the pulley could be tapped on a mm further on the crank. That was the first faulty thing. The other was a very slappy Optibelt toothed belt. I am hearing stories about people not happy with Optibelt, unless you install the right on (The 'C' variant). This is also going on with Gates, so i am told, and i myself is very pleased with Mitshiboshi (they seem to be the only one mentioning Morini in the catalogue). Installed everything back on again, and away is the play, fewww.
Now, whith that done, i lifted the cover of the left hand case. All ok there, just some screws needed retighting. But, i am suspicious about the ring nut not being torqued enough, so i will get rid of the old one and use a brand new one with the correct amount of torque with a correct torguewrench. Use some loctide. The job done as it should be done i guess?
Lesson learned: Always trust your intuition, such simple things can be overlooked eaaasily! Also with the so called professionals or people in a hurry.