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My first post and my first Morini.



Refreshed after a 10 year rest.



I am very excited about this bike. What a lovely classic engine design. The ´80´s Italian enduro bits work quite well too.

Nice in blue. Raise the gearing for road work. Eats miles as tank good for 300 miles. Very under rated bike. Enjoy the handling but could do with 10 HP more.

If you can find a screen that helps, too.

Looks very different in blue, nice bike.
Regards Pete.

Looks good in std. 80's trim, graphics very period, keep it as is.

Exactly the same as my first Morini, although mine had a blue seat and fork gaiters to match everything else. Happy memories!

Have to admit to a subtle de blue- ing going on. Original blue gaiters and seat cover were a bit the worse for wear. I also have a patched up screen ,which is ,yes, blue.

I managed to find a good used shock, removed the struggling starter which had lost one of its friction pads, changed the cam belt, repacked the exhausts, new airfilter and carb rebuilds.

It now starts 2nd kick and pulls well but has a stumble as the revs rise. I think I have everything set up OK in the carbs. Might try changing the needle hight. Not likely to be the timing is it ?

Also I can´t find neutral when stoped with the engine running. A clutch clean might be a good idea.

new front brake pads coming. also needs a new fork seal. Does 220ml per leg sound right ?

Thanks for the replies.

I'm interested in the fork oil, the Italian manual gives a weight and not a capacity unless my Italian is rubbish....

You must be tall, I can't reach my kick starter.....

Neil P wrote: It now starts 2nd kick and pulls well but has a stumble as the revs rise. I think I have everything set up OK in the carbs. Might try changing the needle hight.

The LAST thing to touch on a Dellorto is usually the needle height. A stumble pulling away is often too rich an idle jet as a side effect of modern fuel with it's high aromatics content. A mid range issue may need a change of atomiser.

Morinis are often difficult to get into neutral at a standstill; nudging it into neutral before you stop is easier. The cross-over linkage on the X4 will probaby make it more difficult than on a right-hand shift bike, so making sure that's all nice and tight should help.

Thanks for the answers.

Mickey M- yep, the kick starts good for me. I have tried right foot side stand/centre stand/no stand and even left foot on the bike. I do find it gets in the way when standing up on the pegs.

EVGuru- your right. Raising the needle didn´t help. But its not a hesitation pulling away, its great starting and at low revs. Its when I open the throttle at higher revs. But I will go back and look at the tiny holes in the atomiser. Just watched your youtube clutch video. Great stuff. Did you make any more of those clutch tools ?

Mark B- the cross over linkage doesn´t appear to have much play. I was thinking more of clutch issues.

Neil P wrote:EVGuru- your right. Raising the needle didn´t help. But its not a hesitation pulling away, its great starting and at low revs. Its when I open the throttle at higher revs. But I will go back and look at the tiny holes in the atomiser.

The atomiser is a transient mixture control device and often Morini sent them up a bit lean under acceleration (probably for emissions). Like I said, you may need different ones.

Just watched your youtube clutch video. Great stuff. Did you make any more of those clutch tools ?

No, but I could do.

still not running right

I stripped and checked the carbs (again) and could see nothing blocked or odd.

I have now spent a lot of time hooning about trying to be clear about the symtoms. and it goes like this....

Start and ticks over luverly. Pulls smoothly up through all the gears, BUT only if I keep the revs down and change up early. In first gear it is possible to bring the revs up higher, but in any other gear the engine revs will not rise above 4000. Sudden throttle opening has it the engine starting to cough and bog down. Closing the throttle by half again and it runs smoothly.

I have checked fuel flow and it seems good, even though it sounds a bit like fuel starvation. Its quite hard to check float bowl height, but with the bowls off, fuel starts to flow past the needle valve as soon as I begin to lower the floats.

Standard air box and filter. 90 main jet, 2nd groove on the needle. I think this is all standard. Exhaust probably a bit more open than the originals.

Any suggestions appreciated.

Neil P wrote:Standard air box and filter.

Does it still have the 'Flower Pot'?

It's quite restrictive and you need to re-jet if it's not present.

http://www.compton.vispa.com/morini/dartmods.htm

Hi Paul, thanks for the suggestions and yep, all the airbox parts are there.

Tried some more combinations today. Running without the flower pot and then even the filter.

Managed to make the bogging down even worse.

So then went the other way and wrapped 3/4 of the filter in tape.

With this combination the engine ran smoothly without bogging down on full throttle opening,but still refused to pull through the revs. So i am now thinking its a fuelling issue. So checked the needle valve flow and cleaned the tank filters. But no change.

Lots of head scratching. Now thinking i will see if i can borrow a freinds Dart carbs or at least swap about some of the jets.