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My 500 is an early one - made before they fitted the wiring for the neutral warning light (I think). Is it possible to retro-fit this feature? Has anyone else done this? I'm sure I read about it somewhere but I can't find the article or topic now. Thinking it will help me know when I select neutral when I stop. You never know, I might even be able to do it before the lights go green again!

Nick,

not easy. I can't recall how the mechanism works inside the cases but the switch is on the outside with a spring loaded pin going through the cases to contact the gear change mechanism (the mechanism might even be different so that it pushes the pin out when in neutral).
I've had them on two engines. On the first it worked fine but when I swapped engines after a blow up the switch on the second wasn't reliable - a bit like the low fuel warning light.
I'd keep practicing finding neutral before you stop.

My 500 SEI does not have a neutral light, and it's several years younger than yours.

I have never felt the need for one, you can feel when it slips into neutral with a bit of practice without having to look down at the dash.

The again, having neutrals between every gear also helps

Well, the more I ride the bike, the better I'm getting at finding neutral. Would still prefer to have a neutral indicator light working if possible. Due to persistent oil leaks will have to split engine case at some point to attend to gaskets/joints/seals. May look into possibility of retro fitting neutral switch at that point - probably next winter.

Hi Nick, only me. Silly question, but where are you getting leaks from? the crankcases or still from the clutch cover?

But glad to hear that bike is up and running.

Cheers, Tony

Hello Tony,

There is a leak from between the crankcase halves right at the front, between the engine mountings.

I also replaced the clutch seals, though have discovered it is still leaking there. Either I nicked one of the new seals when fitting them, or there is too much wear in the clutch/primary gear bush. Last time I checked, with the pressure plate removed I could induce some sideways play in the clutch outer basket. Also have a small leak along the kickstart shaft. No more leaks from under the timing cover, so at least I managed to fix that one!
Anyway, the amount of oil on the dipstick is barely changing, and no oil (so far) has found its way onto the rear tyre. I'm just enjoying riding the bike so much at the moment that the leaks, though annoying, can wait a bit longer before I attend to them again.

Note to self - must check breather hose is not blocked - possibility of leaks due to excess pressure in crankcases?.

What jointing material did you use on the crankcase mating surfaces? I tried a clear instant gasket, but where I had to have a couple of goes getting the cover over the kickstart, damaging the gasket,I used Hermetite gold.
I had/have a very slight weep from behind the rear cylinder but managed to rub some instant gasket into the joint in the crankcases and this has bodged it up. I hate oil leaks having had Tridents.
I also had a weep from the "hidden" bolts which leaked out of the right hand side of the engine, after the rebuild. Had to strip cover off again and re-seal those bolts.I had used new copper washers.First time I have ever had one of these bikes so good to take it completely to pieces to see how it works, if not so good on the wallet.

This is probably the stuff to use:Three Bond TB 1215