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Hi all,
What does everyone use? I'm going to change mine soon and check the belt and thought I'd see what others use.
Cheers
Giles

I was thinking of using Castrol R40 for aesthetic reasons (and the smell) so will be interested to see what others recommend and is there any reason I shouldn't go this direction? NLM would tell you what's best.
Looking in 31/2 manual they say Castrol GP for engine/gearbox and Chevron ATF or any reputable fork oil for Front forks.

rgds.,

From Castrol's web site

"A castor based lubricant which is primarily designed for the racing world; however its unique properties can also benefit private owners interested in high performance.

Never mix Castrol R40 with mineral based or synthetic crankcase oils "

I think it can solidify and cause blockages.
If you want the smell, pour a small amount in the petrol tank.

You will find as many opinions on the best oil to use as there are on the best tyres

I sent my team mate out to buy some oil for the bike we were racing once.I changed the oil after practice as usual.The race started and he'd been out for an hour before I noticed the bottle said Castrol 'R'. As the bike was going well I left it.Stripping the engine later there were no damage or blocked oil ways but the deposits on the valves and pistons were hard shiny and black like gloss enamel,they took some shifting.I think I was just luck as I've been told that mineral oil mixed with veg oil under heat and pressure forms a semi solid snot like goo that gums everything up.. . . . don't know what the moral of this story is. . . }<{("<~

The original specified oil was 20w50.

Late specification; 10w40 semi synthetic (Sint AGIP 2000).

I use 10w40 in all my morinis except the 250 twin (more of that later) whatever their age. If I get it cheap enough (BOGOF at Halfords) I use fully synthetic, if not it's semi-synthetic. One advantage of the synthetic based oils is their ability to cling to surfaces, rather than drain down. This is important for those who don't use their bikes very often and are running their valve-gear dry.

I change the oil when it starts to colour up and I can see it easily on the dipstick. This is why the 250 runs on a fairy cheap mineral oil. Having a wet clutch the oil gets contiminated by clutch wear.

NLM use 10w40 semi synth I think.

Silkolene recommend the following:

GOOD-Super 4 20W/50
BETTER - Comp 4 20W50
BEST - Pro 4 15W/50

Morris and Bel-Ray both have specific V-Twin oils which are both 20W/50 grade.
Motul have a specific 2 cylinder oil which is 20W/50.

The general opinion of the manufacturers would appear to be that the higher viscosity oils are most suitable.