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I bought this bike in January of this year as a project to occupy me in my retirement through the winter months. It’s taken longer than I expected but there were mitigating circumstances. The bike has been off the road since the mid 93 and stored in a dry garage hence condition and the low mileage. It looked sad but I knew it would be a good project and could be brought back to it’s former glory, here it is for your perusal:
Completely refurbished aqua blasted and powder coated frame and all paintwork stripped back to bare metal by same means and repainted.
Tank, Mudguards front & rear, Side panels.
New decal badges.
New steering stem roller bearings top & bottom.
New front and rear wheel bearings.
New brake pads & shoes.
Brake master cylinder - overhaul kit.
Brake caliper - overhaul kit.
Front suspension rebuild with new stanchion tubes.
New Hagon rear shocks.
New swing arm bushes.
New electric regulator.
New ignition switch and two keys.
Stator ignition coil rewind.
Carburetors ultrasonically cleaned and overhauled.
New handlebars & hand grips.
New instrument bezels and mounting.
New battery - Motoblat.
New tyres.
New clutch lever.
New brake light switch.
New fuel tap
New headlight connections and wiring.
Centre stand stripped and rebuilt with new tubes.
New fasteners on all fittings.
Engine oil change.
New cam belt.
Tappets adjusted.
New spark plugs & HT cables.
Starts first kick most of the time now with no choke.
All receipts supplied for all items and work carried out.
It is currently SORN’D. It will be sold with a new MOT and I have MOT’s from before it was stored as a historic record showing mileage as genuine.
I’ll try to upload photos! If unsuccessful PM me with an email address and I’ll forward photo’s forthwith.

I’m looking to recover my costs only which now amounts to £3800.00. I should add open to sensible offers too.

Contact: 07801 199578
Archie

Hi there, well done on the restauration!
Some photo material would be very handy in this case, you can upload them to a public space like flick.com or photobucket, and them insert them here using the HTML code [img]http:the%20link%20to%20the%20photo[/img]

Regards, Tom

Hi Tom,

Thanks for the advice, I do use post image so will try it.
Cheers
Archie

Here we go, I hope!!
Archie

https://postimg.org/gallery/1x2f09fpc/

Wow!
That is a mighty fine restoration. Well done

Thanks Coxey, took a little longer than I had hoped but that was down to a wee medical problem that got some attention too...
Cheers
Archie

That looks really pretty

Thank you RedVee.
It just needs a new owner now and allow me to start my next project.
Rgds
Archie

Well, it seems my friend Clive doesn't want it. I must admit though, it is such a nice rebuild I'm considering getting this off you. Just need to complete the TU250 and sell it (completion before Christmas, selling after).

Papa Lazarou wrote:Well, it seems my friend Clive doesn't want it. I must admit though, it is such a nice rebuild I'm considering getting this off you. Just need to complete the TU250 and sell it (completion before Christmas, selling after).

Ready and awaiting a new owner as and when. I'm out of the country until 31 Dec and then back home. I look forward to hearing from you or any other interested parties.....

All the best
Archie

Hi Archie
Can you tell me how you got the old wheel bearings out?
Mines a '77 3 1/2 sport, wire wheels, so possibly different to yours.
Both wheels seem to have a steel core which runs the width of the whole hub, can't see any obvious way to prise them out each side?
I probably used to know this stuff, but it's 20 years since I touched the bike...
Thanks in advance if you can help.
Graham

The steel core is the bearing inner race spacer, there to stop the inner race from displacing axially and inwardly when you tighten the spindle nut up for obvious reasons. If you put a screw driver down the hole of the 'steel core' you should then be able to lever it off centre thereby allowing you to, using a drift, to knock out the old bearings. Check that one of the bearings, speedo side, is not retained by a seager clip located in a groove of the hub, you should use the appropriate pliers with small round ends that fit into the two holes of the clip to reduce the diameter and lift out, but Morini also used plain retaining clips which need prizing out with a small screw driver.

As Harry says above, the spacers on most hubs can usually be pushed sideways a bit to allow access for a drift. However, at least on some Morinis the central spacer is stepped so that the smaller diameter fits inside the inner bearing race. So with these you need a drift that will pass inside the bearing inner diameter. I think I bodged up a stepped drift to align in the spindle bore but have clearance through the bearing.
Of course check you have all circlips out first as well!

This part of the post really belongs in the other forums so don't be surprised if a moderator moves it!

Steve & Harry have got it right thats exactly how I did it although I did heat them up with a hot air gun, makes it a bit easier!
HTH
Archie

Bump
This ad has been up a while now and only one sniff..... I thought these were more sought after bikes than this is proving to be. I'm not desperate but I do want to to move it sooner than later. Any takers out there?