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Has anybody got any tips for removing the plunger in the electric fuel tap . it appears to be seized,I have soaked it over a couple of days with rust flash / Wd40, it’s not sticking out enough to get pliers on it.
Is it just a plain steel plunger ? if so considering drill & easy out then replace it

Thanks barney

Hi Barney,
As far as I know it's just a plain mild steel pin, shaped at one end to operate the diaphragm, and a hole at the other end to house a tiny spring.
You might want to try heating the outer and banging it down onto a block of wood to see if that will move it.
If you do have to drill it, I'm sure I have an old tap in the garage you can have to get the plunger from.
Regards, George

Thanks for the reply George and your offer, The drill with easy out sorted it this morning, turns out the hole was slightly distorted possibly didn’t help me tapping a tight spanner on the brass nut to undo it due to a slightly rounded nut.
I will hopefully find a reamer to clean it up and clean the pin up.
Don’t know if you or anybody could tell me what thread the brass nut and Aluminium block are ? these need a clean up first then hopefully reassemble and back on the bike

Thanks barney

Any good to you? Have the body as well, but no solenoid. Yours for the cost of postage.
Pm me if you want it.
George

yes please, Pm you
Thanks George

PM sent.
George

Don’t forget that the club has remanufactured the diaphragms for the electric fuel taps.

They are not available anywhere else.

Once you’ve got the electro-mechanical bit of your tap working, you should definitely invest in a new diaphragm, if you’ve not already.

Available to buy from the club products page. Members get a discount too

https://www.morini-riders-club.com/pro ... ducts.html

The video below shows the club test rig. Tap on the left has a club diaphragm, and on the right an original.

https://youtube.com/shorts/ZTbZKZnS2sM?feature=shared

I do have that in mind, mie does seem quite flexible so may try it first, is that price with discount or is there discount to come off that price ?
Thanks barney

10% discount to come off that price for members.

The club isn’t making profit on these, they’re an expensive thing to tool up for and to make in the correct material, which is probably why nobody else has, but that’s one of the things the club exists for.

Orginal diaphragms do go hard, but they also lose their form so even if they still feel supple they will more than likely still not give the same flow as they did originally. We measured a very large number of diaphragms, including a new old stock one which had never seen fuel, just been sitting assembled in its tap for 40 years- and even that had taken a bit of a set.

But of course, no harm in trying your original first, not all diaphragms cause trouble.

Thanks Tom, I will probably end up buying new,it’s piece of mind plus club has gone to the trouble of getting them done so even though no profit I guess every sale helps
Thanks barney

The thread size is M16-1.0.

In a huge collection of stuff I got from a friend before he passed, I found two electric fuel taps, apparently new in the bag. Unfortunately, neither works when tested on a battery. It could be the diaphragms are so stiff the plunger won't move, although I haven't yet checked for continuity through the windings.

Diaphragms:
The bonus of the club diaphragm is that the club specified the material (FKM/Viton) so that it is perfectly happy with the current 'ethanol' mixes that are in modern fuel. It's anyone's guess what the originals were made from.

Regards,
George

AntietamClassicCycle wrote: ↑15 Dec 2024 18:08 The thread size is M16-1.0.

In a huge collection of stuff I got from a friend before he passed, I found two electric fuel taps, apparently new in the bag. Unfortunately, neither works when tested on a battery. It could be the diaphragms are so stiff the plunger won't move, although I haven't yet checked for continuity through the windings.

Thanks for the thread info

Can anybody tell me what the reading of the coil for the petrol tap should be please ? the plunger moves slightly with a fully charged battery but not enough to hold in, if I push it in it will hold, mine reads 36 ohms

Thanks barney