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I'm more used to working on 500 engines, where I KNOW the engine has to come out to remove the rear barrel.
You know what's coming...there's no way to get the 350 rear pot on, with the engine in the 350 frame? It seems to foul the ign. Switch bracket at best. It might be possible by removing the front offside cylinder stud of the rear assembly and slipping the barrel in and up? Anyone do/done this?
Failing that it's a chain off again engine out, pot on, and manhandling a suddenly heavier engine back in without scratching the new frame paint

Surely SOMEONE must be able to answer this query?!

Tilting the engine forward, pivoting it on the rear lower mounting bolt? Not saying it works and I haven't done it, but I think I have seen it mentioned before ... ??? If it has to come out of the frame, protect/cover the new paint to the max.

Hi Simon,
Can't remember exactly on my 78 model - I have done it, but it was many, many years ago. It is possible I undid the studs or at least some of them as you suggested. Maybe the ignition switch was removed as well? Maybe it was 'rolling' the cylinder over the studs. Definately didn't remove the engine bolts.

Good luck,
George.

Thanks guys. Ive tried 'rolling' the cylinder onto the studs, definitely not enough clearance and it's the ignition switch frame-bracket that fouls the pot, not the switch itself which is removed for clearance. On the 500 the bracket is removable
I will try taking out all but one rear engine-bolt 'pivot' , to tilt the engine forward, a la Ducati Bevels, as a last resort. Loath to start removing barrel studs that have never come out, but I have a stud-gripping extractor and a hot-air gun so may not be too painful for the crankcases

I wrongly assumed if was possible to do this whilst in the frame and as I am planning on removing my rear head and barrel at some point on my 79 350 and would be interested to hear if you find a method to do so without removing the engine or studs. . Cheers.

I originally read this as a 500 engine in a 350 frame. If that's wrong and we're talking about a 350 engine then I'm sure it is do-able. I know I have done it in the past, more than once. I seem to remember once the piston is clear it's just a little wriggle to get the cylinder clear and it helps to put the bore over one of the cylinder studs to move it sideways a bit. Not very clear that, sorry.

Might be worth having a look at some of 72Degrees' posts on his Hill-Climber. He may describe something similar on a 350 engine in a 250 frame.

You can do it.

I am sure I have done it on my K1 but I do know that the ignition switch bracket is in the way. Maybe I withdrew it from the right. Maybe I had the front cylinder out of the way first. Unfortunately have only done this twice in 11 years and the last time was 2016.
John

3potjohn wrote: ↑05 Apr 2021 07:33 ...Unfortunately have only done this twice in 11 years and the last time was 2016.
John

2021 - 2016 = 5. Looks like you will have another attempt soon!

GHF wrote: ↑05 Apr 2021 07:26 You can do it.
FB_IMG_1617607363297.jpg

The ignition switch bracket is in a more sensible place on your later bike, in the photo. On the early 350s, its makes a triangulated 'corner-bracket' right where your ignition switch wires are touching the frame in your photo, just where the rear cylinder is angled towards!

Ming wrote: ↑05 Apr 2021 06:44 Might be worth having a look at some of 72Degrees' posts on his Hill-Climber. He may describe something similar on a 350 engine in a 250 frame.

Ah, found it, thanks Ming. 72 Deg managed, by drooping the engine down at the front using just one rear engine bolt as a pivot, which was going to be my next/last resort experiment!

So, car-jack under the sump, remove all but the lower rear engine bolt, as a pivot. Padding on downtubes and frame rails. Remove oil filter and cover for clearance, and gently let the jack down. Engine arcs forward and down.
Rear cylinder goes on with plenty of room, just like a D*c*ti bevel twin.