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Hi all, I have just got a new cambelt (thanks George Lane) as my Sport has been off road a few years and got a puller and want to tackle the job. Do I need anything else, i.e., lots of folks seem to be using an air driver to aid removal. Is this essential as I would rather not have to shell out £70 for one of those if it is possible without... any advice most welcome.
Thanks, Graham

I didn't find one to be necessary, just used ordinary socket set tools.

It is easier with an impact driver.I bought a cheap electric one from Machine Mart. With four Morinis I change a lot of belts.

I have never had a problem loosening or tightening the nut using a socket and standard wrench (torque variety on tightening).

Hi Graham,

Providing that you have a decent peg spanner to hold the flywheel, or a large strap wrench to go around the outside of the flywheel, then a rattle gun isn't usually necessary. But they can save you 10 seconds undoing the crank nut, and can be good on the extractor bolt if the flywheel won't budge.
Personally, the Engineer in me will never rely on a rattle gun to retorque something. I always use a proper torque wrench, and a peg spanner to hold the flywheel.
Maybe I've been lucky, or it is because I use the correct torque each time, but I've yet to have a stuck flywheel on one of my own bikes, nor one come loose. Others may well say the same about their own bikes tightened with rattle guns.
Each to their own.

Regards,
George

Thanks so much for you help guys.
Will give it a go in first instance with a socket and torque wrench and see how I get on.
Will let you know. Cheers

If you don´t have a propper tool to hold the flywheel (you´ll have to look for it): 6. gear an someone stepping on the rear brake
And you need an extractor to get the flywheel off once the nut is off.

If you have never done one before, it's worth having a look at Paul Compton's videos on youtube first. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_ ... oto+morini

Hi Ming.
For what it’s worth I made a flywheel holding tool out of a redundant piece of 18mm mdf by cutting the shape out with a jig saw and fitting 8mm (I think) bolts for the pins.
It’s done 10 belt changes so far with no problems.
Nothing wrong with a bodge if it works!

Mark wrote:Hi Ming.
For what it’s worth I made a flywheel holding tool out of a redundant piece of 18mm mdf by cutting the shape out with a jig saw and fitting 8mm (I think) bolts for the pins.
It’s done 10 belt changes so far with no problems.
Nothing wrong with a bodge if it works!

I made one years ago from alloy bar with a section sawn out to clear the nut and M8 bolts for the pins. For added sophistication, it has a hole in the other end that picks up on the footrest mounting of a 250 2C.

Just make sure you remove the washer behind the alternator nut before attempting to screw the extractor in.
You will need to remove the stator plate, you will need to loosen the screws and turn the plate to avoid the screwdriver snagging on the coils. The lead coming from the stator should be retained by a metal clip on the left hand side. When refitting try and get it flat against the leads, to avoid it eventually cutting through the insulation.
There is a guide washer which you fit after fitting the new belt, just make sure you fit it the right way round.( I didn’t once.)
When refitting the rotor you need to make sure it is located on its key. The magnets may fight you but it should be obvious.
The videos mentioned will sort you out.
John

Thanks for all your other replies on this. Looking at my flywheel it looks different to many others I have seen (see pic), with 3 slots rather than holes that would usually take a tool/holder. Says Ducati on it. Anyway it was rebuilt when I bought it 20 years ago by the late Phil Smith, and he changed my cambelt a couple of times so am sure it is right. However should I then be using the slots as the pin holes if I can fashion up some kind of holder (have searched for the special tool but to no avail - they appear to be like gold dust)? Otherwise am guessing am gonna have to shell out for an electric wrench thing. Thanks

If making a holder the slots or the smaller holes near the edge will suffice, but as Norbert said above, you can normally do this by engaging top gear and applying the rear brake while you undo the nut. I managed for years before I started splashing out on tools

Thanks Steve.

Will try again with the gear and brake technique tomorrow.
If not, then will rig something up. Indeed I don't want to spend where I don't need to!

Graham

When you get to the belt, you can slit it lengthways and peel it off one half at a time without disturbing the timing. Slide the new one on while one half is still in position then remove that second half. Works a treat, I did it last time.
DD