Fast flashing indicators.

[Mark]

Hello all.

A couple of problems I’m hoping someone may be able to shine a light on ( excuse the pun).

On taking delivery there was a lot of rust around generally but surprisingly all the electrics worked correctly ( except the electric starter).

So I was a bit disappointed to find the indicators flash at double speed and the rear light doesn’t work (brake light and rear parking light do - bulb ok - all 4 indicator bulbs are 12v 10w)
Although less of an issue the front parking light doesn’t work either.

The only electrical modification is a new headlamp which works fine on dip and main beam. The horn and headlamp flasher work fine too.
Re the rear light I've traced the wiring back to the fuse box and can find no obvious physical fault or blown fuse.
The loom has remained attached at all times and earth and electrical connectors in general have been cleaned up individually then refitted so if I have wired something wrong it must be around the headlamp area - could that affect the rear light?
The bike isn’t running yet so I can’t say if that changes anything.

Any ideas?

[George 350]

Hi Mark,

High speed indicators:
I'm sure that the bulbs should be 12v21W, not 10W. That is probably why they are flashing at double speed.

Lights: If the rear light is working with the key in the parking position but not in the 'on' position, it suggests that there may be a fault in the handlebar switch or its wiring - not difficult when you see how tiny the wires going to the switch are.

I'm a bit in the dark as to whether it is the unsealed multipin connector or the multi spade connector block under the tank as to where to look as I have rewired both of mine many years ago to use Honda switches. Probably best to have a look at the wiring diagram and go from there.

Hope that this helps,
George.

[Mark]

Thanks for the ideas George.
I’ll have a look at the switch, maybe I unsettled something when I put some new bars on?
I thought previous posts on the subject had said 10w was correct for the 350 indicator bulbs but I may be wrong. I haven’t changed the bulbs though and I’m pretty sure they were flashing correctly before I started working on the bike.

[Mark]

Well I’ve opened the switch and poked the connector under the seat and the rear light works!
Obviously I’ll need to look a bit closer but it seems you were right about the switch George so thanks for that.

Can anybody confirm that 10w Indicator bulbs all round is not correct, or any other ideas why all four indicators work but at double speed?

Thanks.

[George 350]

Mark,
What model are we talking of, and are we talking original CEV indicators and flasher relay?
What I do know is that the pre electric start 1976-1978 models with CEV kit had 21W bulbs in them.
Is anything written on the flasher unit (e.g. 2x21W, or 2x10W)?
If you want to test it at no cost, connect all 4 indicators together and try it- inside headlamp connect both lamps to same feed. Repeat at the back to same colour feed. If all 4 flash at the proper speed you need 21W bulbs.
Hope this helps.
George

[Mark]

Hi George.

At your logical inference that the relay may be at fault I’ve had the good luck to be able to borrow a working one from an identical 1983 K1.

The result is yes, it was the relay, with the borrowed one fitted the indicators now flash at a normal rate.

While at it I can confirm that both relays are identical WAGNER FLASHER 552-12v. “Made in U.S.A.” surprisingly.
Therefore almost certainly original fitting.

I also checked the other bike’s bulbs - all 12v 10w so the spec must have changed for the later models.

You never know, that info may help someone else someday!

Thanks for helping to resolve my problems, just the front parking bulb to go.

[MickeyMoto]

The K1 went to square indicators... I think they are the same as the Kanguro.

[robint]

As an aside to this, using a new electronic flasher unit (choose your Chinese source for under £5 delivered) will provide a steady flashing rate regardless of battery state and bulb load/type. If you are not into originality then this is a better solution for stable indicators by sending a constant pulse to the indicator switch - but of course doesn't let you know a bulb has failed......