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I'm working my way through all the servicing items on my recently purchased Strada. I've dismantled one fork leg which was in good order, so just a thorough
clean and new fork seals. The only slight issue was getting the socket head bolt undone at the bottom of the leg. Many of the fasteners seem to have been assembled on the basis of tighter is better. I suspect something like a fork stanchion must have been used as an extender in many cases.

When I came to undo the same bolt at the bottom of the second leg, it turned, but instead of coming out it's turning the fork internals and as a result and cannot be undone. I can't see anyway of getting the slider off. Has anyone else had this issue and found a solution?
As a last resort I may just flush the fork through and replace the oil.

Any thoughts on the best oil to use? I've seen ATF and various grades of engine oil suggested.

Neil.

Hello - its a long time ago and I'm a bit vague (which means it needs doing again) but I think I solved this by using washers as spacers in the top of the fork therefore increasing the pressure, i'm sure someone else will be along with another suggestion - I've used Silkolene SAE 20 in my 79 sport and its always been fine -hope you sort it - Duncan

I recently dealt with a 'stuck' damper by using a tapered dowel to jam in the damper to stop it turning.
I have used ATF in most of my bikes for the last 30 odd years with no problems, it's around 10W as far as I can find.

find a pneumatic rattle gun you an use/borrow, usually the bolt can simply be undone using one of those

To undo the socket head bolt strike the allen key with a mallet. The sudden jolt loosens it off before the damper starts to turn inside.

You can try to stop the turning of the damper like this:
Take a screw with the right thread and drill it into the hole/thread of the "empty the oil". Sharrpen the top of the srew before. Like that you can hold the damper. I tried it once and it did work.

norbert

This is what the manual says:

As a pin I made this.

Thanks guys. Having given the matter some serious thought with a like minded mate over a few beers,I logged on to post the results of our ministrations. They seem in line with some of your suggestions. Preload the internals by compressing the fork and then use a pneumatic impact wrench.. If that fails, I'll look at the various suggestions to wedge the internals.
Thanks again. This is the best forum I've come accross for informed responses.
Cheers,
Neil.

Impact wrench. Corded, cordless or pneumatic.
Once you use one, you will wonder how you ever did without it.

Mepstein wrote:Impact wrench. Corded, cordless or pneumatic.
Once you use one, you will wonder how you ever did without it.

This.

And then use proper fork oil, easily available from motorcycle shops and the internet everywhere. I found 15W oil best with standard forks on my 350K but then switched to 20W as I started doing more trackdays.

There's a manual here which you might have already found: http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/marzocch ... /index.htm . One of the pages ( http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/marzocch ... chi_25.htm ) gives the quantity of oil to use depending on the travel of the forks; I think the 'blue book' is only right for the earliest models.

+1 for 15w .I use silkolene fork oil.