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Received the 77 Strada today from Archie (thanks for being so kind as to deliver it).

Two things need sorting fairly soon.

1) speedo doesn't really work.
2) that front brake is wooden.

I see that people recommend a number of speedo repairers, so that's easy enough (once I've checked it's the speedo, not the drive or cable). Any tips on improving the front brake? I was thinking of seeing if something Japanese might fit.

The master cylinder from a Kanguro improves the front brake but it is still not comparable to the brakes found on modern bikes.

Hi,
I have one of these yet to be fitted to my single disc Sport.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Front-Bra ... 2243976993

My pal has fitted one to his single disc Strada and reports it works very well, his complaint was also of wooden feel.
Alan.

Thanks for that, Bison. I was thinking of a GN250 master cylinder as they are pretty effective (and I have recently rebuilt one on a TU250X).

First impressions:
It is very, very loud. It has Lanfronconi competition silencers on it, which might, just possibly, be part of the reason.

It is very pretty. Whilst not concourse, the frame and wheels are newly powder coated, the tank and panels newly painted.

A measly 43000 on the clo0ck.

The front brake is a joke. I nearly hit a Range Rover on a roundabout today-nothing happened. It looks like the piston in the master cylinder is far too big. I'll buy a second hand Japanese one for a 250 and fit that. The rear (drum) brake is excellent, thankfully.

It's a bit of a pig to start when cold. Starts easy when warm. Kick start only, of course.

The speedo kind of works but is about as accurate as my typing. Rubbish, in fact. Second on my to do list.

There's a few bits missing-a couple of tank decals and mudguard stays. Nothing serious.

It has a firing problem at around 6000 revs. The exhaust note changes and the engine goes flat, with no acceleration. I'm guessing this is at around 70mph. It should have another 30mph in it. Whether this is carburation or spark is difficult to tell. More investigation needed.

This is the sweetest handling bike I have ever, ever ridden. It is better than a VFR, better than the Guzzi, better than a featherbed Norton, better than anything Japanese or British. The handling is astonishing.

Did I mention that it's loud?

Thanks for that, Bison. I was thinking of a GN250 master cylinder as they are pretty effective (and I have recently rebuilt one on a TU250X).

First impressions:
It is very, very loud. It has Lanfronconi competition silencers on it, which might, just possibly, be part of the reason.

It is very pretty. Whilst not concourse, the frame and wheels are newly powder coated, the tank and panels newly painted.

A measly 43000 on the clo0ck.

The front brake is a joke. I nearly hit a Range Rover on a roundabout today-nothing happened. It looks like the piston in the master cylinder is far too big. I'll buy a second hand Japanese one for a 250 and fit that. The rear (drum) brake is excellent, thankfully.

It's a bit of a pig to start when cold. Starts easy when warm. Kick start only, of course.

The speedo kind of works but is about as accurate as my typing. Rubbish, in fact. Second on my to do list.

There's a few bits missing-a couple of tank decals and mudguard stays. Nothing serious.

It has a firing problem at around 6000 revs. The exhaust note changes and the engine goes flat, with no acceleration. I'm guessing this is at around 70mph. It should have another 30mph in it. Whether this is carburation or spark is difficult to tell. More investigation needed.

This is the sweetest handling bike I have ever, ever ridden. It is better than a VFR, better than the Guzzi, better than a featherbed Norton, better than anything Japanese or British. The handling is astonishing.

Did I mention that it's loud?

Poor cold starting could be due to the flywheel needing remagnetising.

chirpy999 wrote:Poor cold starting could be due to the flywheel needing remagnetising.

how is that done?

Remagnetising has been covered recently as I recall. And resizing the master cylinder. Kanguro, Brembo, MZ, small Jap and Chinese all fit.
Alternatively, has the hose been replaced, mastercylinder and calipers overhauled and suitable brake pads fitted?

Papa Lazarou wrote:Thanks for that, Bison. I was thinking of a GN250 master cylinder as they are pretty effective (and I have recently rebuilt one on a TU250X).

First impressions:
It is very, very loud. It has Lanfronconi competition silencers on it, which might, just possibly, be part of the reason.

It is very pretty. Whilst not concourse, the frame and wheels are newly powder coated, the tank and panels newly painted.

A measly 43000 on the clo0ck.

The front brake is a joke. I nearly hit a Range Rover on a roundabout today-nothing happened. It looks like the piston in the master cylinder is far too big. I'll buy a second hand Japanese one for a 250 and fit that. The rear (drum) brake is excellent, thankfully.

It's a bit of a pig to start when cold. Starts easy when warm. Kick start only, of course.

The speedo kind of works but is about as accurate as my typing. Rubbish, in fact. Second on my to do list.

There's a few bits missing-a couple of tank decals and mudguard stays. Nothing serious.

It has a firing problem at around 6000 revs. The exhaust note changes and the engine goes flat, with no acceleration. I'm guessing this is at around 70mph. It should have another 30mph in it. Whether this is carburation or spark is difficult to tell. More investigation needed.

This is the sweetest handling bike I have ever, ever ridden. It is better than a VFR, better than the Guzzi, better than a featherbed Norton, better than anything Japanese or British. The handling is astonishing.

Did I mention that it's loud?

30mph? Doubt it for a Strada.
Exhausts may be causing the problem above 6k rpm. If you kick down a gear does it go?
Lots on here about wooden brakes. 250 master cylinder?

Ming wrote:Remagnetising has been covered recently as I recall. And resizing the master cylinder. Kanguro, Brembo, MZ, small Jap and Chinese all fit.
Alternatively, has the hose been replaced, mastercylinder and calipers overhauled and suitable brake pads fitted?

Thanks. A search was useful and I will try the screwdriver on a string trick. http://www.realclassic.co.uk/techfiles/ ... video.html

The hose has been replaced with a braided one, the pads are (I believe) new but I need to check what type, the caliper has been overhauled.

the silencer thing is interesting.

flywheel puller 27mm x 1.25mm bought. Brake master cylinder bought. The first priority is the front brake.

James,

Glad you enjoyed riding it so far, apart form the wooden brake!

Flywheel magnetising was checked by NLM and found to be good. It holds 2 Kg lump hammer which was my basic rule of thumb test and then checked by NLM. If you check back on my threads Paul Compton advised changes perhaps required for carbs in relation to pilot jetting and needles although I think he said don't move the needles. I thought it was running very rich initially and as I said it could probably do with some fine carb tuning to resolve the flat spot that you mention.

The mudguard stays are in one of the boxes however as explained one was missing and requires a new bracket to mount at the rear of F mudguard.

Hope these comments help. Although you are already finding out that the collective on this forum is very knowledgable and I'm sure many good solutions will be forthcoming.

Have fun and don't be over exuberant reliving your teenage years. Your a long time dead.

The brake discussions has been done many, many times.

The 250 twin used the same wheel, disc and calliper, but a 14mm cylinder and the brake was just fine. Not light, but into the range where you get 'feel'.

If you're used to modern brakes you may want to go to a smaller bore cylinder, but then you'd probably start complaining about brake dive!

Starting technique is important, how are you going about it?

Competition Lafranconis are black, slim and have a kink in them. Yours are just stock chrome one aren't they?

EVguru wrote:The brake discussions has been done many, many times.

The 250 twin used the same wheel, disc and calliper, but a 14mm cylinder and the brake was just fine. Not light, but into the range where you get 'feel'.

Indeed. I was glad to find NLM had a master cylinder kit (piston and seals) for the 250 2C one on 'the project'. With new seals in the caliper and a new Hel line it is feeling very promising.