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I really do appreciate the support of NLM however I just received my package of 2 new exhaust nuts gaskets and an exhaust nut tool for my '74 350 Sport.
When I spoke to NLM I was advised to really torque the exhaust nuts up tight. As I was doing this (and not applying huge force) the tool started to bend!!! Now only two of the castellations engage with the nuts, the other two castellations have bent up so they wont engage with the corresponding castellations on the nuts.

Bit disappointed, the tool clearly isn't fit for purpose, its made of material far too soft.

I have emailed Stuart and am waiting for his comments but would appreciate comments from anyone else who has the nlm tool. Its only 11 quid but I need something that works and will last.

Theres a guy in Italy that advertises on Ebay makes a brilliant tool for the exhaust nuts. Money well spent.

Mauro Gini makes the best nut tool i've found

http://www.morinispecial.it/joomla/inde ... ent&id=178

His rear sets are nice too! He mails out promptly.

Si

I have my own shop made face spanner that fits both 350 and 500 size exhaust nuts, but I also have an NLM 500 tool. If the castellations are in good condition so the too fits properly, it's always worked fine.

It's always hard to describe how tight stuff has to be. Mostly I work by feel and exhaust nuts are tightened until they don't 'want' to move any further. They'll then be tightened again when hot a couple of times.

My tool from NLM bent too and I wasn't even applying much force. I bent it back as best I could and it's usable again, but what good is it if it's just going to bend again.

Thanks for the link to Mauro Gini - some good stuff there.

My exhaust tool bent too..The second to do so. I could not be bothered returning it as postage was not being refunded.
totally inadequate for the job in my opinion.

First off - NLM will be closed now until the New Year, so e-mails will sit around for a little while...

Second - Paul C makes a sound point - you're tightening the nut against the gasket (always use a new one) and once that starts to deform, as all gaskets do...) you're almost there. Good advice from Paul is to tighten further once the engine has been run and the joint and nut is heated up. I always used to use a C spanner from an MZ to tighten mine up, and only ever had one come loose - that was on a Dart and so no drama as they didn't have separate collars! Interesting that the early Harglo manual refers to the gaskets as 'asbestos'; I think that nowadays they use copper?

Good restoring...

CC

I suspect the thrust of the message was not so much the fact that Stuart had not responded,but that the tool was inadequate.
Mine was bought a few years ago.It is just a piece of flat plate cut to shape but it has no intrinsic strength. A quality,hardened c spanner or a face tool as owned by Paul is the way to go.

Unfortunately I have to echo the findings of others in that mine bent too, it can be straightened and re-used, but bends as soon as any pressure is put on it. Stuart advised me to do the nuts up really tight, in fact to use a hammer, no chance with the NLM tool.

And as supplied by the link to Gini above... Mind you, I'm surprised at hammering - I'd rather do what Paul suggests as a two stage approach.

Good riding and fettling over Christmas,

CC

If I ever get stuck for a good fitting c spanner I find that the right size Allen key works brilliantly- Allen key flats tightly pushed in between the castellations perpendicular to the nut (size depends on how worn your castellations are, and it doesn't work brilliantly on really rounded castellations).

You can then apply constant pressure to the nut at a reasonable radius and get them done up nice and tight

This is especially true on the rear of the dart where access to the nut makes it near on impossible to get a c spanner on.

It also means not having to carry a c spanner in the toolkit which is handy when on a run (not that I've ever had one come undone)

Yes I was not whinging about not having a response from NLM at all, just that the tool seems totally inadequate. Its quite soft material that bent the first time I tried to tighten the nuts. I was not applying excessive force either.........the one from the chap in italy is a bit over twice the price of the NLM one but hopefully it will prove that you get what you pay for. I shall order one. No hurry as I'm going to take the opportunity to get the downpipes and crossover re-chromed.....

1) I got a tool from Italy off the chap who posts on ebay UK site. You have to take care that it is engaged properly.
2) Clean out the threads of carbon etc in the heads and make sure the exhaust headers fit in nicely, not under tension.
3) I use BMW specified grease because obviously I have some (well its a Moly based grease-as per the exhaust nuts on those bikes which can seize on otherwise)
4) I tighten up by hand,then run the bike for a bit then tighten a little more.I have a dab of paint to indicate to me if loosening off -never have though.
5) Don't know about bendy tools from UK-doesn't sound much good.
6) is this an exhaust nut thread?

Anyhow Merry Christmas

"I always used to use a C spanner from an MZ to tighten mine up."
Hi Chris, I'm glad I'm not the only one! I still use my ancient MZ c-spanner. The MZ tools were and still are of amazing quality.
Happy Christmas everyone!

George.

I would say MZ plus one but I don't have one. They do however have proper metallurgy. I have an adjustable C spanner I bought years ago from a proper tool shop in Reading during a Christmas sale(anyone else remember Sergeants) that always does the trick.