1985 K2 cosmetics, etc.

[penman]

Hi all,

Now that it looks like my K2 is going to behave like a motorcycle after all, I want to turn my attention to tidying up the cosmetics. Here is a photo I took the other day when actually out for a ride:



The picture is flattering, but I think this bike has been kicking about in a garage for 20 years or more and literally every painted part has picked up at least some scratches. As you can see, there are transfers/decals on most parts and really, just about everything needs re-painting and new decals. The decal set for the tank is fairly easy to find, however I haven't been able to find any of the others - does anyone have any ideas? Of course it could all be painted on, and it would probably look better for it, I might get some quotes, but I suspect the price will be prohibitive. I could of course re-paint it in a simpler design, but this is a pretty quirky looking bike and I'd really like to keep it looking original.

There is one small part I have been unable to get anywhere, and that is the small black cable restraint for the twist grip. I've never seen one, but it must look like a miniature pair of binoculars. It looks as if it clips into the rectangular hole in the twist grip, to hold the outer part of the throttle cables. Again, if anyone knows where I might get one, or has one spare, I would be very pleased to hear about it. At the moment I have a home-made bodge which works, but isn't entirely satisfactory.

By the way, it never ceases to amaze me how these older bikes can come up with new and original faults, just when you thought you were winning. When I parked it yesterday I noticed oil all over the side stand. A closer look and I have a significant oil leak - from the oil pressure switch! I've never seen that before, but oil is leaking from where the plastic part of the switch joins the metal part. OK, easy to fix, but I bet a new switch will cost me another tenner!

Many thanks!

Joe.

[AntietamClassicCycle]

Looks great compared to my K2 which lived most of it's life in New York City and sat out by the curb a lot. Dings and dents, scuffs and scrapes, oxidation and rust - it has it all. The seat was slashed and the foam has slightly degraded even. I'm working through the cosmetic issues little by little, but it's not a high priority as it's been running so well. I've ridden it 5k miles so far this year while the Guzzis sit.

[3potjohn]

Oil pressure switches do fail as do neutral switches on BMW gearboxes.In the latter case one can seal with a layer of epoxy over a new switch before fitting as they are less easy to get at than the Morini oil pressure switch.On the Morini it then blows back over the side stand/footrest area, You can also get some muck in the switch causing your oil light to stick on,which causes a rise in pressure-your blood pressure.

[Ming]

Hi all,
...this is a pretty quirky looking bike and I'd really like to keep it looking original.
Joe.

The question is - do you want it to look original, or to look new? Speaking personally, I like an 'old' bike to show it's age. If it's a basket case, fair enough, give it the works, but if it just has a few dings and scrapes, give it a coat of polish and wear your scars with pride.

[MickeyMoto]

I have a spare oil pressure switch.....

[penman]

Thanks for all the feedback folks!

I think I'll have a closer look at the oil pressure switch and see if I can see exactly where the leak is from. If I can, I'll have a go at de-greasing that area and try a layer of JBweld, I should be able to put that on fairly neatly. MickeyMoto - many thanks for your offer, I'll keep it in mind if the JBWeld doesn't do the trick.

Cosmetics this can be a thorny issue! I actually agree with Ming to a large extent, and I don't want to be obsessive. Trouble is, on this bike there are just too many "scars" which are just beyond my tolerance. Maybe I'll adopt a softly softly approach - doing the tank would have a big impact and maybe some of the other scuffs would seem less important after that. Hmm, I'll think about it.

[72degrees]

The identity of the twist grip manufacturer might be clear if you had the bit you seek! It's a Verlicchi unit. I always have to carefully put mine carefully somewhere safe if I disconnect the cables as the cable block is inclined to fall out (or tape it up with gaffer tape if being left for a while).

I've never seen them offered for sale as a separate item. The good news is that the twistgrip is common to all the twins I think, though apparently the block 'thickness' may differ on some and so affect suitable inner cable length dimensions.

There is a complete unit on Ebay.it (a good source for rare stuff if you search in Italian and use Google translate to communicate with the seller)at the moment. The bad news is, that given the state of the pound, it would be 40 quid plus carriage

The 250 I recently acquired had a home made 'block' and it worked OK even though the tube was also fairly shot. Fortunately, I had a spare twistgrip kicking around in the "never throw anything away" shed. A strategy which has borne fruit several times recently.

As to cosmetics I much prefer 'patina' unless scars are bad enough to allow attack by corrosion. As you have said yourself, you need to concentrate on getting it running right and riding it!

[EVguru]

I think I'll have a closer look at the oil pressure switch and see if I can see exactly where the leak is from. If I can, I'll have a go at de-greasing that area and try a layer of JBweld,

It's not worth the risk. If the switch is faulty (and that's not that uncommon), just replace it. I've seen oil pressure switches blow their guts, followed by all the oil, but of course no warning light! Better to blank it off in the short time. Earlier bikes didn't have them and the Dart (like my GTS1000) came factory equipped with a level sensor, which is far more use.

There's a compatible inexpensive Intermotor part. Don't know the number off hand.

[penman]

The identity of the twist grip manufacturer might be clear if you had the bit you seek! It's a Verlicchi unit. I always have to carefully put mine carefully somewhere safe if I disconnect the cables as the cable block is inclined to fall out (or tape it up with gaffer tape if being left for a while).

I've never seen them offered for sale as a separate item. The good news is that the twistgrip is common to all the twins I think, though apparently the block 'thickness' may differ on some and so affect suitable inner cable length dimensions.

There is a complete unit on Ebay.it (a good source for rare stuff if you search in Italian and use Google translate to communicate with the seller)at the moment. The bad news is, that given the state of the pound, it would be 40 quid plus carriage

Thanks for that. I did see that twist grip on ebay.it but it looks like a metal unit - mine's plastic, so this wouldn't match, maybe no big deal. Also, the seller doesn't accept Paypal, so making payment might be tricky. I am considering it though and I might contact him.

To some extent I know what you mean about "patina", and I can accept a degree of age-related scuffs and so on. Some things are more annoying though and just make the bike look scruffy - I'd just like to aim a bit higher than scruffy!

[EVguru]

Electric start twistgrip.

[penman]

I think I'll have a closer look at the oil pressure switch and see if I can see exactly where the leak is from. If I can, I'll have a go at de-greasing that area and try a layer of JBweld,

It's not worth the risk. If the switch is faulty (and that's not that uncommon), just replace it. I've seen oil pressure switches blow their guts, followed by all the oil, but of course no warning light! Better to blank it off in the short time. Earlier bikes didn't have them and the Dart (like my GTS1000) came factory equipped with a level sensor, which is far more use.

There's a compatible inexpensive Intermotor part. Don't know the number off hand.

Thanks for the info Paul. When I came home from a short ride this afternoon it produced 5 drips in about 30 seconds so something had to be done! This is ironic because it is parked next to my Bonneville, absolutely notorious for oil leaks, but after a lot of attention to detail, mine doesn't leak - clean floor under the Bonnie, pool of oil under the Morini! Sigh... I removed the pressure switch and it "looks" perfect. Certainly no cracks and the plastic part isn't loose, I don't think it's in imminent danger of breaking up. So I've cleaned it and put a bead of JBWeld around the joint and also around the base of the terminal. It'll have to cure for 24 hours before I try it. It's not a pretty repair! I am hoping to get up to NLM this week and I'll probably cave in and buy a new one while I'm there.

[penman]

Electric start twistgrip.

Good point!

[72degrees]

Thanks for that. I did see that twist grip on ebay.it but it looks like a metal unit - mine's plastic, so this wouldn't match, maybe no big deal. Also, the seller doesn't accept Paypal, so making payment might be tricky. I am considering it though and I might contact him.

To some extent I know what you mean about "patina", and I can accept a degree of age-related scuffs and so on. Some things are more annoying though and just make the bike look scruffy - I'd just like to aim a bit higher than scruffy!

Yes, Paypal does help. I purchased a tank recently that the seller wasn't advertising as shipping internationally, but after a bit of Ebay messaging with help from Google translate we sorted something out using payment by Payal.

I'm afraid I'm a follower of the Robert Pirsig school of thought
"For me the most boring task is cleaning the machine. It seems like such a waste of time. It just gets dirty again the first time you ride it.
John always kept his BMW spic and span. It really did look nice, while mine’s always a little ratty, it seems. That’s the classical mind at work, runs fine inside but looks dingy on the surface."

[72degrees]

Electric start twistgrip.

Good point!

Would the cable block be different ?

[penman]

Electric start twistgrip.

Good point!

Would the cable block be different ?

Your question got me up off my backside to check and take a photo! I hope this shows it well enough:



The kill switch and starter button are built into the housing of the twist grip hub. So that one on the ebay.it site would cause more problems than it would solve unfortunately. I am beginning to think that making a tidier diy job might be the line of least resistance.

While on the subject of the twist grip, after a couple of hours on the bike today, I was starting to find my right hand aching from the throttle. I don't get that with either the Bonnie or my modern BMW. The BMW just has a MUCH lighter throttle, so that explains that one. But the Bonneville may be a bit lighter, but the main difference is that the grip is thicker and softer, so you don't need to hold it so tightly. Has anyone changed their grips for this reason?