MRC Forum- brought to you by www.morini-riders-club.com

Morning folks,

I would be interested to hear your recommendations on oil for the Morini 350 engine. On my Triumphs I now use semi-synthetic, 10/40 in winter and usually, Miller 20/50 semi in summer, or particularly if I'm going abroad to somewhere warmer. I was thinking of using the same strategy for the Morini (if I ever get it working properly!) - any comments?

By the way, I'd like to check the oil pressure, what is a good, i.e. normal pressure range when warm? Do you you usually measure it at the warning light switch fitting? Thanks!

Halfords 10/40 semi-synthetic for me. Oil pressure must be one of those new-fangled things: it doesn't feature on either of my 3 1/2s...

The original specified oils were Castrol GTX 20W50, or Castrol RS full synthetic (with an extended service interval).

By the time of the Cagiva produced bikes, the specified oil was Sint Agip 2000, a 10W40 semi-synthetic. I've always followed NLM's advice and run 10W40 semi all the time.

As for oil pressure, I've no idea. The pump is of generous capacity and feeds just the big ends on early bikes. A plain timing side main bearing was added somewhere around 76/77 along with an extra start to the pump drive worm gear to increase oil delivery. I suspect you'd show good oil pressure even with quite badly worn bearings. You can feel play in a worn timing side main bearing and it will often result in an oil leak, vibration and the alternator rubbing.

Halfrauds 10/40 Semi for me. Sometimes on offer.

I'm not generally obsessed with oil pressure, it's just that I'm not used to this engine and I'm slightly concerned because if I stop the engine with the kill switch, the oil pressure light comes on almost immediately. With the engines I'm more used to, it takes several seconds for the pressure to leak away. I'm sure this is just a consequence of the design but I just thought I'd check.

Do I take it there is no oil feed to the top end? Interesting, how are the rockers and the camshaft lubricated? I guess it's all by splash / oil mist. Well it clearly works, and works well but it's a bit counter cultural for me, I'm used to buckets of oil being pumped around under high pressure!

Anyway, I like the 10W40 scheme, so that's what's going in. Then back to chasing mid-range problems

Almost forgot, many thanks to all for prompt and helpful answers!

If you come along to our annual rally on Saturday (not too far from Milton Keynes) we can tell you all about the oil mist lubrication of the top end and the cunning crows' feet cast into the rocker covers to collect the oil mist and let it drip onto the rockers.

Not to mention the heavy finning to encourage effective condensation... It's why there is always a good reason to ride the bike a decent distance regularly to get it up to full working temperature! Another good excuse for taking The Long Way Around,

Cool Riding

CC

Morini Oil Pressure relief valves are set in the 60-65 psi range…I see 65-70 psi cold and 60 psi warm at rpm (not idle)

Note: It take 20-30 seconds for the oil pressure to come up to full pressure when the oil is cold….

I spin the motor thru for ever how long it takes to get full pressure on the Supercharged Morini before switching the spark on…I have a gasoline motor driven rear wheel and not the electric starter. Bottom end plain bearings looked just great after two race season on them after doing this procedure…

Bye the way,,, I used 15w-40 weight even in the El Mirage heat of Summer 100 + F….. However, the motor only runs for a little over a minute at power so the oil doesn't have time to get all that hot…..

Robert in California

PS: The Supercharged Morini will be racing this Saturday in the season opener at El Mirage, CA

Once again, thanks for all this interesting stuff!

Unfortunately I won't be able to make it to the rally on Saturday, my circumstances make it difficult to get away. I was hoping to get to the Shuttleworth Collection on Sunday, though I won't know until the day. I won't be on the Morini however, it's not fit for riding for pleasure! So whatever I decide to ride, I might have to park it round the corner....!

Apologies for repeating myself, but once again does anyone know if the US export model of the K2 had any other engine differences to the European models? The carburetter jetting is different - leaner, but is anything else different to allow that to work? I have tried richer, leaner, different needles, different atomisers but it still runs badly in the quarter to three quarter throttle region. The best compromise so far has been a richer atomiser (260BD) with a needle which starts the taper later (E24) - but it's still not acceptable by any means. I am almost certain there is no fault with the ignition. Surely it shouldn't need all this fine tuning, but what am I missing?

I'm using Silkolene 10w40 ride semi synth. as I use this in all my other bikes (except Turbo, that has fully synth).