Getting the 350 together again. Phone a friend time....
1)Valve timing:All innards are as they came out. When I put the cam belt gearing on the punch marks should still be valid shouldn't they?
I have to get an inlet valve about to open at 28degrees before TDC.Looks like I have the crank a rotation out initially but now I think OK.I checked with a downloaded timing disc cut out and stuck to a CD,which miraculously fits exactly over the crankshaft.
2)Generator rotor nut.Bit worried about this coming undone in the light of some recent postings.Tried to nip it up to around 60NM(a proper unit!) but should I be using any Loctite do you think.Crank taper cleaned first but that centre nut is a bit chewed.Not much to get a socket onto.
3) How the hell do you really get the kickstart back in without the spring pushing the shaft back out of the gear?
I did get there in the end but this is the worst job so far. I even pulled the cover off again because I was worried about the oil pump seal dropping off with all that fa**ying about.Everything else seems joyous to do.Bet that timing side oils seal will leak though.But this must wait as I am going to the Chrysler Building.
valve timing
Hi,
I was the culprit who holed my casing due to the flyhweel coming off, I am glad to report the use of valve grinding paste to seat the flywheel properly is a good fix, along with making a tool to hold the flywheel and torque it up to specs. The flywheel with its new nut and repaired casing have now got about 300 miles under their belts. By the way enjoy the Chrysler Building (I assume you mean the one in NYC), I visited it in 98 only got into the entrance foyer but spectacular. NYC give tax breaks to the large skyscrapers if they open the toilets to the public!!, so that was my excuse to visit the Chrysler building.
Regards
Robin
I was the culprit who holed my casing due to the flyhweel coming off, I am glad to report the use of valve grinding paste to seat the flywheel properly is a good fix, along with making a tool to hold the flywheel and torque it up to specs. The flywheel with its new nut and repaired casing have now got about 300 miles under their belts. By the way enjoy the Chrysler Building (I assume you mean the one in NYC), I visited it in 98 only got into the entrance foyer but spectacular. NYC give tax breaks to the large skyscrapers if they open the toilets to the public!!, so that was my excuse to visit the Chrysler building.
Regards
Robin
1984 Kanguro X1 home built special.
'Using yesterday's technology to create tomorrow's problem's today'
'Using yesterday's technology to create tomorrow's problem's today'
Back from sunny USA and spent the whole time wondering about a washer and a metal drilled and tapped sleeve I had over....
Sleeve was the one in which the long bolt at the rear of the flywheel cover screws into. Washer more of a worry but never mind.Bet it was off a gear shaft!!
Spent 2 hours with the magnetic pickup on the end of the camshaft which became stuck due to a tiny and unseen burr. Much prying and sweating but eventually it was free. Phew, an evil job and the old "BMW snapped camshaft end syndrome" was in my mind the whole time.
Bike fired up eventually. Much excitement and worry in case of sudden engine noise, loosening clutch or flywheel nut or oil leaks but none to report.
Grin restored. All memory of expenditure rapidly fading. Marvellous.
Sleeve was the one in which the long bolt at the rear of the flywheel cover screws into. Washer more of a worry but never mind.Bet it was off a gear shaft!!
Spent 2 hours with the magnetic pickup on the end of the camshaft which became stuck due to a tiny and unseen burr. Much prying and sweating but eventually it was free. Phew, an evil job and the old "BMW snapped camshaft end syndrome" was in my mind the whole time.
Bike fired up eventually. Much excitement and worry in case of sudden engine noise, loosening clutch or flywheel nut or oil leaks but none to report.
Grin restored. All memory of expenditure rapidly fading. Marvellous.
Everyone seems to have trouble with assembling the kickstart. Here's how it is described in the Club's manual (to be published sometime, once I've found some reviewers & proof-readers)
Assemble the kick start shaft with the two racheted gears, making sure that the spring has the right offset from the end of the pawl (the factory specification is 34mm, in fact this will be 30-38mm as there is slack in the spring) then fit it into the inner case and hold the spring compressed. Put the kickstart lever on to the end of the shaft and turn the shaft about three-quarters clockwise until there is a click as the cam rides up and drops into its working position. The tension in the spring should now be enough to hold the shaft in place while the outer case is fitted. Line up the outer cover and press it inwards; if a new oilseal for the crank feed and neoprene bush to the oil pump have been fitted the last few millimetres will be difficult to close.
The kick start pawl is made with two ramps: one to disengage the kick start from the gearbox when the lever is released and springs forward, the other is solely there for assembly.
Another way is to assemble the shaft in the outer cover and use string to hold the shaft in place (tie round the ratchet not the kick start pinion); the cover can now be fitted to within a couple of millimetres when the string can be removed.
I don't know, giving away club secrets to all and sundry...
Assemble the kick start shaft with the two racheted gears, making sure that the spring has the right offset from the end of the pawl (the factory specification is 34mm, in fact this will be 30-38mm as there is slack in the spring) then fit it into the inner case and hold the spring compressed. Put the kickstart lever on to the end of the shaft and turn the shaft about three-quarters clockwise until there is a click as the cam rides up and drops into its working position. The tension in the spring should now be enough to hold the shaft in place while the outer case is fitted. Line up the outer cover and press it inwards; if a new oilseal for the crank feed and neoprene bush to the oil pump have been fitted the last few millimetres will be difficult to close.
The kick start pawl is made with two ramps: one to disengage the kick start from the gearbox when the lever is released and springs forward, the other is solely there for assembly.
Another way is to assemble the shaft in the outer cover and use string to hold the shaft in place (tie round the ratchet not the kick start pinion); the cover can now be fitted to within a couple of millimetres when the string can be removed.
I don't know, giving away club secrets to all and sundry...
Thanks for this info. I ran the bike yesterday evening down to Paignton Bike Night and back and overtaken by everything whilst running in.This is the route I took when it seized so very gently up the hill. Its a novelty being able to look at objects on the hard shoulder instead of that headlong rush on the bigger bikes.Much peering around for loosening bits,oil,smoke or deer.
None,none,none, 53. I don't trust 'em.
And everyone at Paignton said " I have never heard of one of those,is it Italian?"
None,none,none, 53. I don't trust 'em.
And everyone at Paignton said " I have never heard of one of those,is it Italian?"