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You can find them here
http://www.realclassic.co.uk/techfiles/ ... video.html
Well done RC!

Splendid, I just watched those videos a few days ago and changed my belt earlier today, though it'll be a while before I find out if it's all in running order yet.
I gave up with a flywheel holder and bought a rattle gun to undo the flywheel nut, simple after that.

Last movie .....

Video of bike being tested. Job done. Brilliant.

This part is really brilliant........ during the belt change they changed the wheels too

Heh. Three Morinis suffered in the making of that web page; a spoked wheel Sport, a cast wheel Strada and my cast wheel K Sport.

Any confusion was... inevitable.

MG

no problem ... nice how-to

Very interesting and informative.

What was the make/model of the 'cordless?' 'electronic' impact driver & fittings used in the video's - did I hear this right, if you use something like that you dont need the flywheel holder? [so Santa can have this on the list.... ]

Was the replacement belt a item from NLM or another source?

There was mention I think of splitting a belt to fit, if worried about pulley position slipping - how

M

I bought myself this one-
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003 ... 05_s00_i00
not cordless but that wasn't an issue for me.

I had no need for a flywheel holder using it.

I had never changed one of these belis before and was concerned about the same thing but the pulleys dont move on their own after taking the old belt off and are easily repositioned against the timing marks in any case.

mhsilverw wrote:What was the make/model of the 'cordless?' 'electronic' impact driver & fittings used in the video's

Cordless? Well yes I supose technically it was, since it's air powered!
It's a SIP 'rattle gun'.
Aldi do quite reasonable air tools (including compressors) once a year.

Was the replacement belt a item from NLM or another source?

Gates belt from http://www.beelineengineering.com/

There was mention I think of splitting a belt to fit, if worried about pulley position slipping - how

It's a trick you can do on many engines. Split the belt lengthways and remove one of the two resulting belts leaving the other in place. Slide on the new belt before cutting the first. Slide the new belt across. You really don't need to do it on a Morini engine.

mhsilverw wrote:Very interesting and informative.
Was the replacement belt a item from NLM or another source?

I suspect all three belts came from different places

I bought mine from NLM because I'm happy to pay a premium to them for a belt in order to ensure that they're still in business when I need something that only they sell but that there's not much demand for.

On the other hand, the belts are a standard industrial fitment that can be bought from any belt supplier at a significantly cheaper price.

There's the germ of a RealClassic.co.uk "Opinion" article in those two sentences...

In my view, and as I only buy one belt once every blue moon, the NLM mark-up is a price worth paying. It's more of an ethical issue than anything to do with the quality of the belt.

The belt that EVGuru put on the Sport in the video was a Gates one (not graded A, B or C). The air wrench made removing and replacing the flywheel as simple as anything. I've done about 2,000 miles on the bike since we made the video in May, and nothing's fallen off! (Nothing mechanical, that is...)

Having watched Paul do that, I was confident enough to change the cambelt on my 501 engine. However, I haven't developed Paul's sensitivity to nut tightening with the wrench, so I used a flywheel holder and tightened up with a torque wrench afterwards. This time I splashed out at NLM for a graded belt; not an enormous outlay and I'm very happy to keep them focused on Morinis.

It's a very straightforward operation.