Electrics

[SimonM]

Help!

My sport came to me sans battery and I have been concentrating on the mechanicals for the past couple of weeks. I ordered a new battery and it turned up yesterday, so, after filling with acid and charging for a couple of hours I thought it time to tackle the dreaded electrics. As soon as I connect the battery the front and rear lights come on (ignition switch off). Nothing else appears to work. No indicators, horn, brake lights etc.

My first suspicion was the handlebar switch so I disconnected it from the loom. Lights still come on when I connect battery with the switch disconnected. While the switch was disconnected I checked that operating the various toggles makes / breaks continuity. The stwitch appears fine to me, though I will be looking to replace it at some stage because it is badly cracked.

Any ideas how I can figure this one out. I guess there is a short somewhere but how do I trace it? I am happier with things mechanical rather than electrical!

Thanks,

Simon.

[SimonM]

Ignore this stupid post. I just realised that "park" is the fully anticlockwise key position. I removed the key in this position and since experimenting I have realised that "off" is the middle position (where the key can still be removed) and "on" is fully clockwise.

Electrics all work apart from non flashing indicators.

I feel rather foolish now

[Steve Scott]

Don't feel bad, I'd never heard of parking lights on a motorcycle until I got my Morini. I thought I had a charging problem until I figured out the reason the battery was dead in the morning was because I was leaving the parking lights on!

Check the flasher unit under the off-side sidecover. It's a dirt-cheap, old fashioned 2-terminal type. It should be in a rubber holder, but you'll probably find it hanging by the wires.

[craig_uk]

Simon,

I have just got a '76 Strada (kick start) and am dealing with electrical problems. Perhaps you can help:

Q1: What are the main key switch positions?

This is what I have on mine....

Left-most / (anticlock) seems to be OFF, key can be withdrawn.

Key cannot be withdrawn in both other positions.

Middle position: engine will run, horn will work. Lights do NOT work.

Right-most (clockwise): engine will run, horn will work, lights will work including parking light.

If this correct?

(n.b. my key switch is the 5 wire type).

Q2: In what position(s) should the electric fuel tap operate?

[3potjohn]

Hi I have only had a 350 for a month-my key can be turned one click clockwise where upon the ignition light is on and every other circuit is live. My lights then operate using the handlebar switch.I can select side or main from this handlebar switch.
If I return the key to its original position and turn it one click anticlockwise then parking lights come on.
This is unlike my BMWs where the key turns once for parking and twice for all circuits live.
I discovered that I can remove my key in any position so it may actually disappear on a journey.Is this due to a worn keyway or are they "all like that Sir"
Also on the old beemer I use a 20W halogen sidelight to act as a daylight rather than using the main light, because even with ancient Bosch superior electrics one does not want to overly tax the battery. Is this a mod to try on the Morini perhaps?BMW switchgear ???? Oh the joy of it.

[craig_uk]

Hi John,

Well it looks like we have at least three variants of ignition switches...

There are certainly 6 wire and 5 wire types....

And there seem to be 2 different key position layouts.

I've confirmed that my bike is wired correctly for my type of 5 wire switch:
Fully Anti-Clockwise, key removable, OFF
Middle, engine can start, key retained
Fully Clockwise, all circuits live, Engine will run, lights work from handlebar switch, key retained.

My problem is a dodgy connection inside the ignition switch, such that the lights flicker on / off if you jiggle the key in the 3rd position. I anticipate the lights coming on and off due to road vibrations. Not a good idea and not the basis for an MOT pass!

I've just ordered a replacement one from NLM, cost approx £35. Think it is a second hand one, but not sure.

Craig

[craig_uk]

I forgot to say, that the two types of ignition switch layout were confirmed in a chat with the NLM workshop guys (helpful as ever, god bless 'em). I'm not sure if both types are original Morini or whether one of the layouts is a pattern replacement.

[SupermotoDave]

If you look at the factory manual you will see wiring diagrams for 5 and 6 pole switch bikes.
HTH

David