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Hello this is my first post so hope you can help me out. How do you remove the spindle Ive never seen anything like it . Is it in 2 pieces ???? You can turn both nuts but that just locks the nuts nearer the frame .


I live near NLM so can go and see them but wouldnt be able to go till next week and wa nt to work on the bike this weekend


Anyone got a diagram or just sensible advice.


regards


Dave

Have a look at this it may be of some help.

http://www.realclassic.co.uk/morini08060300.html

Undo the smaller nut on the left and then the big one on the right.The spindle has flats on this end.You are supposed to then unscrew it out to the right.You might need to jiggle the swinging arm a bit as you turn it.Make sure you get a good fitting spanner as I found it was easy to slip and partially damage the flats.I had to replace my spindle and bushes. The bushes were very difficult to get out in my case.Equally the replacements were hard to get in despite freezing them.I therefore grease them regularly.

What 3potjohn said.

The spindle is a threaded, headless pin that screws into the left hand side of the frame, from the right.

Take off *both* nuts completely, and then use the flats on the right hand end of the spindle to unscrew the spindle from the frame. Use lots of penetrating oil at both ends if it's not turning freely.

And don't be tempted to hit it with a hammer...

MG

That's Morini for you, doing things differently from everyone else, but with sound reasons behind them.

In this case, it's to allow you to adjust the end-float of the swing arm.


The original bushes are cast Iron and replacements usually Bronze. These days I'd go for a Stainless pin and plastic bushes. Acetyl Homopolymer would be the common choice, but the Morini bushes have so much bearing area that I've now done two sets in PTFE and they seem to be holding up just fine.

I found the last two posts really helpful excellent.

Managed to get it out, thanks for the advice.

Anyone recommend someone that does powder coating????

I am In Coalville.

If it's just the swinging arm that needs painting, I did mine with aerosol Smootherite.

So did I-my local engineering works ( now moved away)removed the old bushes and whilst at it blasted the swing arm clean.In a flash of uncharacteristic brilliance I painted it prior to trying to fit the new bushes.Then I had to remove the damaged paint again and re do it.I like the idea of using a synthetic material instead of the bronze bushes I got from NLM. If I had a second swing arm and spindle I'd certainly try it.
I stick a bit of that 3M paint protecting film round the inside of the swing arm as I do on the redoubtable R60/7 to limit stone chips.

Its not just the swing arm that needs painting. The frame is very poor , fork legs , wheels and yokes and the mudguards all need painting.

I would consider doing the painting with say smoothrite but would it be a decent finish??

This is my first restoration and i want a good job doing , I wouldnt want to say do the painting and then regret not having it powder coated .

What are your thoughts on this?????

Hi,

I used:

http://www.triple-s.co.uk/prices.htm

for my Kanguro. The delivery and pickup worked well - you can see how they returned the job at:

http://kanguro.motoani.co.uk/blog/archi ... chive.html

Two key things to note:

1. Although they did a good job of masking threads and cleaning the metal (no peeling 5 years on), they didn't do any 'smoothing' which stopped them getting a great finish. Whether this should be done with abrasives or filler I don't know!

2. Note that I had swing arm problems - before getting the frame finished make sure everything is right.

Bets wishes with the project,

Adrian

I've only done a rust prevention refurbishment on the 2C/374. If I stripped it right down I might never get it back together again. With the engine out I used brushed Smoothrite gloss red to freshen it up. Not an exact match but not at all bad. In my experience you need to apply it thickly in a warm palce and let it sort the brush marks out itself. Their satin black works quite well on the, erm, black bits, like fork sliders and on the 2C, handlebars. If you can put freshly painted small components somehere really warm it sets much faster. It can take a while otherwise before you can assemble without fear of scraping.

As to the swing arm, I just sold a complete 350 one with a decent spindle and usable bushes. The 2C had nylon ones put in a few years ago by Nigel Price?