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The CDI unit is marked NLM & manufactured by AMG electronics. Both coils are black & have no markings as far as I can see. Each has a bolted connection { thick white cable] & a push on connector [ brown cable to the rear, black to the front]. Maybe now would be a good time to purchase a rotor puller, any ideas of a possible supplier????? The rotor is marked Ducati Elect' & has cooling fins at the rear.

Unfortunately, no spares......a shame!!

Try a basic function test on the ignition box.

https://youtu.be/CWgLYidtHVw

Hello Baz, I have a puller and a rota that you can borrow.
Regards Pete.

Hi Pete, that's a very kind offer, maybe we could meet at the weekend??

Hello Baz, I work weekends so not very easy to meet up. I could drop them over on Monday if you are about ?
Regards Pete.

Hi Baz,
I've only just caught up with this due to having been in Italy at Mugello for Moto GP.
I am electronically dyslexic, so no help there, however, I live in Tonbridge and recently had problems with an NLM ignition settup (more accurately I have always had problems with it since NLM fitted it)
My problems were eventually solved by going back to the original Morini settup.
If you are still struggling you are living in the perfect place to get help, Benjy Straw (certainly one of, if not the, foremost experts on Morini) is working as an auto electricion in Southborough, he is very happy to work on his first love. His number is 07771 554570. Due to my problems he is familiar with the NLM settup, in fact I have the one taken off my bike sitting around doing not a lot, if you wanted to substitute parts you would be very welcome to borrow parts.
Perhaps as Steve suggests, we should meet up at the Huntsman, there are getting to be a few of us in this neck of the woods.
Pete

Pete, thanks for the information, could be very useful. Pete from Uckfield is coming over on Monday, if the problem persists I will give Benjy a call. Thanks again.

At last, I have sparks!!!!!!!! What did the trick..........extending the slots in the pick up back plates & reducing the air gaps to virtually nothing. The only good thing that has come out of this is that I have learnt a lot about my Morini! A VERY BIG THANKYOU TO EVERYONE WHO HAS ASSISTED.

Just caught up on this thread. I too have the NLM pick up (originally set up by them a long while ago) and it was always a battle to start and idle as well as a lot of vibration. After looking and playing and trying to understand what was happening finally found that I had to extend the slots to get the timing point (almost) right and also reduce the gap to as little as possible to get a good spark. Generally now it starts easily and wonder of wonders idles!

That's interesting because mine vibrates a lot, but I only feel it through the handlebars not the footrests.

so....a Morini ignition by a Morini specialist that cant be timed accurately without modification?!

I had a similar problem with NLM pickup. The air gap has to be very small, much smaller than the instructions with the pickup and I ended up making a new rotor as it was impossible to get the correct advance even by opening out the slots. Worked very well then. I have the original black transducers which don't have a diode in them. The original red pickup has the diode in it. The NLM pickup doesn't have a diode in it and I wonder if that is the cause of the timing problem. Would be quite easy to fit one on the "ground" side of the coils in the pickup. Didn't try it because my home make rotor worked and the bike ran well. Eventually changed it for a Marcus Heilig pickup which works on the same principles as the original red pickup and it works at a slower speed which helps the electric starter. Subjectively the bike ran better at high revs on the NLM pickup!

For the original poster I am glad that it's now working but curious to know what could have changed in winter storage.
Judging by the pick ups i have seen I think that the quality and consistency of manufacture is variable.
The rotors are rather crudely cut and make gap setting hard. NLM said to me to set with a fag paper.
I assume that all the posters are setting advance on both cylinders by making the appropriate mark on the flywheel and that it is getting the advance for both correct that is the problem that needs adjustments in the slots. Original pickups both red and black can be depotted and rewound.
The black pickups (and very late red ones) have less of the loss of advance beyond 7000rpm
Mark

With my NLM pickup the radial slots were ok. I couldn't get enough rotation before the coils touched the casing to get the correct advance and both cyclinders had similar advance as supplied. That's why I made the new rotor. I did check the valve timing first to make sure I hadn't made an error when changing the cam belt.