1985 K2 cosmetics, etc.

[EVguru]

The heavy throttle is partly due to the square slides. The spring platform is angled to push the slide back against its sealing surface and a heavier spring used. Carefully routed throttle cables in good condition make a big difference.

Venhill do their PTFE lined 'Featherlite' cables, but I'm not a fan of Venhill after having to return several faulty clutch cables to NLM. Their throttle cables are a gauge too large and don't always fit the twistgrip drum nicely. I mostly make my own cables these days.

I run medium compound Renthal bar grips. Nice and slim and gripy enough that you don't need to hold on too tight.

On a Sport, I like to route the cables over the brake lever, but that makes for quite awkward positioning of the starter button if you have one.

[72degrees]

Your question got me up off my backside to check and take a photo! I hope this shows it well enough:


The kill switch and starter button are built into the housing of the twist grip hub. So that one on the ebay.it site would cause more problems than it would solve unfortunately. I am beginning to think that making a tidier diy job might be the line of least resistance.

While on the subject of the twist grip, after a couple of hours on the bike today, I was starting to find my right hand aching from the throttle. I don't get that with either the Bonnie or my modern BMW. The BMW just has a MUCH lighter throttle, so that explains that one. But the Bonneville may be a bit lighter, but the main difference is that the grip is thicker and softer, so you don't need to hold it so tightly. Has anyone changed their grips for this reason?

£40 plus does seem a bit much just to get the cable block (which is the part you are missing).

I haven't ridden a Morini with VH rather than PH round slide carbs for years so I just use generic, rubber grips. I also route the cables over the brake lever on a 2C as Evguru suggests, but that has no starter button to worry about. I also try to keep the run nice and sinuous under the tank to the carbs. Probably not according to the official route I suspect as I run them each side of the steering head. Not zip tied too tightly to the top frame tube either. Needs careful checking on full lock as I like minimum delay before the slides get tugged. I currently have the same Venhill throttle cables with adjusters up by the twistgrip that I fitted 30 years ago. The outers are a bit tatty and the worse for wear but they still function well, so work for me

For a heavy throttle you want to try a Gilera GFR. For a 125 it's surprisingly heavy - then it does have to operate the the 2T oil pump adjustment as well.

[EVguru]

For a heavy throttle you want to try a Gilera GFR. For a 125 it's surprisingly heavy - then it does have to operate the the 2T oil pump adjustment as well.

My Gilera CX has a pretty light throttle, so I don't see why the GFR should be heavier.

[72degrees]

For a heavy throttle you want to try a Gilera GFR. For a 125 it's surprisingly heavy - then it does have to operate the the 2T oil pump adjustment as well.

My Gilera CX has a pretty light throttle, so I don't see why the GFR should be heavier.

Lighter than a Morini with round slide carbs? TBF, it's probably because the one I still have hasn't had a new cable or intensive lubrication of it since 1998. The other one was much the same though. I suppose I've been spoilt by modern bikes with FI, particularly the Shiver with "fly by wire".

[penman]

The heavy throttle is partly due to the square slides. The spring platform is angled to push the slide back against its sealing surface and a heavier spring used. Carefully routed throttle cables in good condition make a big difference.

Venhill do their PTFE lined 'Featherlite' cables, but I'm not a fan of Venhill after having to return several faulty clutch cables to NLM. Their throttle cables are a gauge too large and don't always fit the twistgrip drum nicely. I mostly make my own cables these days.

I run medium compound Renthal bar grips. Nice and slim and gripy enough that you don't need to hold on too tight.

On a Sport, I like to route the cables over the brake lever, but that makes for quite awkward positioning of the starter button if you have one.

Thanks Paul, that all makes sense, also for the warning on Venhill cables. I must admit I've been happy with them in the past but a bit of caution won't hurt. I don't think the cable routing is ideal, though there isn't much I can do about it. The big issue is on the L/H carb where the airbox forces the cable to enter the carb at an awkward angle. The edge of the airbox is actually notched to relieve the angle slightly, but it isn't enough and it's not very satisfactory. On the R/H carb, the same issue actually helps the angle of entry, so it's not all bad! One thing for sure, new cables would probably help.

The positioning of the starter button is baffling in my view. On the K2 you more or less have to route the throttle cables above the brake lever because if you route them lower, they foul the fairing. This makes it nigh on impossible to operate the throttle and starter one-handed. In my view, one of the biggest advantages of electric start is that it makes it so easy to re-start the engine if you manage to stall it in traffic. If you have to reach over and press the button with your left hand, you lose most of the advantage because you still have to get it into neutral. OK, best not to stall it in the first place

My grips are made from pretty hard plastic (maybe it's gone hard with time) and they do tend to slip round through your fingers unless you grip them fairly tightly. I think I'll get some new ones, a bit softer and grippier.

By the way, the oil pressure switch has cured pretty well overnight and apart from looking awful (it'll be hidden by the rubber boot though) I think it'll be fine. I will get a new one though and this one can be a spare.

Many thanks for all the replies, as you can gather, I'm new to the Morini game, but I'm beginning to enjoy it at last. Strangely, switching regularly between the 350 Morini and the 750 Bonneville makes you appreciate both, I don't generally find myself making negative comparisons.

Regards to all,

Joe.

[AntietamClassicCycle]

The Venhill throttle cables I got through NLM fit perfectly, the clutch cable - not so much. Routing isn't as much of an issue for me since I have no fairing (wish I did though). The throttle on my K2 is much lighter than any of my other bikes (Guzzis).

[3potjohn]

I have not noticed the twistgrip action being anything other than light. It did get new cables some time ago. The slides and carb bodies don't show any galling marks unlike the Bings on my r60/7. I have replace the slides on those. I also replace jets and needles as they will wear,especially if there is much engine vibration.
Anyhow good luck
John

[penman]

Thanks for the replies.

I got a pair of new throttle cables today, so I'll see if those make any significant difference to the throttle "weight". I also got two new carburetter bodies from NLM. Actually very tatty old carb bodies, but without the corrosion affecting my originals. I'm hopeful that a session in the ultrasonic tank will have them looking like new. At £75 plus VAT each, they weren't cheap, but I flew home, my wallet now being lighter than air.

And an admission. Paul correctly predicted that my leaking oil pressure switch would fail. It did. Though not spectacularly, it didn't explode or dump out all the oil. The oil pressure light came on after about half an hour's riding. I de-clutched and killed the engine and coasted into a convenient lay-by. There was no pool of oil and the dipstick showed normal oil contents, so bearing in mind the pressure switch's recent history, I cautiously re-started the engine. No ominous noises. The light went out and immediately came on again, so I disconnected it and rode on. New switch from NLM, fitted it and normal service resumed. Phew! Old switch now in the bin.

I'll report on the new carbs in a day or two.

Joe.

[72degrees]

Thanks for the replies.

I got a pair of new throttle cables today, so I'll see if those make any significant difference to the throttle "weight". I also got two new carburetter bodies from NLM. Actually very tatty old carb bodies, but without the corrosion affecting my originals. I'm hopeful that a session in the ultrasonic tank will have them looking like new. At £75 plus VAT each, they weren't cheap, but I flew home, my wallet now being lighter than air.

I'll report on the new carbs in a day or two.

Joe.

I must re-evaluate the value of the contents of my "never throw anything away shed!
<Fires up Ebay to list a pair of VHB carb bodies>
Sure you (or anyone else) don't need a pair of original alloy intake stubs.

[EVguru]

At £75 plus VAT each, they weren't cheap, but I flew home, my wallet now being lighter than air.

I could have paid someone to climb up into the roof of the workshop to retrieve my box of carb bodies!

[penman]

I could have paid someone to climb up into the roof of the workshop to retrieve my box of carb bodies!

It's no good telling me that now!!

75 quid +vat was painful for tatty old carb parts, not even complete units, close to the price of a complete new carb in current production, with warranty. But I had no choice if I want the bike running. There's quite a scarcity premium on these VHBZ parts as there is on Morini ignition parts. And as for that wretched throttle cable restraint thingy on the twist grip, it's simply unobtainable. I can see that Morini ownership is never going to be a cheap option! On the plus side, that's another 130 miles on the clock and it goes better and better with every mile. Even the clutch seems to be improving a bit, it's less "grabby" and it even let me into neutral while stationary a couple of times today!