Deal all I have recently acquired a 350 after many many years of wanting one. It is a "k" prefix frame type on a "Y" plate. Having ridden it 180 miles sans mirrors to get home I have already a list of must do's,after changing underpants. First up is replace those old fork dust covers before the seals go.(maybe there is no oil in the forks already) Is the accepted method to drop the whole forks out of the headstock or does one remove the bottom sliders a la BMW. Dropping the stanchions looks easy especially as there are no clamp bolts in the upper yolk as I noted on the Motorway.
Also I always use fork gaiters but am resisting this time on the basis of style actually matters with this bike. What's a few chips on the stanchions eh?
I have removed the fuel tank and am using "Motorcycle Tank Repair kit " from Frosts to sort out the muck. I have cleaned the carbs and the fuel taps and lines. A fair bit of red deposit in the fuel lines.
Bits of wiring look interesting too. I take it earth is generally blue.Blue is the new Brown.
My R60/7 is looking on thinking " what the **** is that thing? Call that an oil filter, what's that rubbishy chrome? Bet you won't be doing 100K miles without breaking down. And you have no panniers.etc etc"
Anyhow thats me first post so any advice would be gratefully received. John in Sunny Devon.
Front fork dust covers and then some....
Welcome to the forum 3pj.
Sounds like you have a bit of work to do
The forks can be removed whole one at a time. If you look up the inside of each leg from the bottom you will see an allen headed bolt, cant remember what size. You may be lucky and find they will undo if you 'shock' them undone by hitting the allen key with a hammer. If not they will just turn round and round with the part inside the leg they are joining. I'm not sure what to do in that case.
Earth is blue on these machines. There are some wiring diagrams on the main site. You should also replace the cambelt if you are not sure of the history of the bike.
Sounds like you have a bit of work to do
The forks can be removed whole one at a time. If you look up the inside of each leg from the bottom you will see an allen headed bolt, cant remember what size. You may be lucky and find they will undo if you 'shock' them undone by hitting the allen key with a hammer. If not they will just turn round and round with the part inside the leg they are joining. I'm not sure what to do in that case.
Earth is blue on these machines. There are some wiring diagrams on the main site. You should also replace the cambelt if you are not sure of the history of the bike.
Thanks for the info- in fact I decided to go for it yesterday evening, having not read your reply. I dropped the whole fork legs down. Fairly simple. getting the left one back up again proved more troublesome as it was tight in the upper yolk at first. I managed with all the skill I could muster to pull the bike forward a tadge, off the jack and off the centre stand, with no front wheel in place. I am so glad it is a lightweight bike. It lifted back up without to much strain on the old innards, with assistance from Nos 2&3 sons. Needless to say various electrical connectors came adrift.
All I have do is hope the stanchions are firmly tightened in the yolks.Don't fancy a couple of black eyes at the first emergency stop. No idea to what torque all this needs to be at,ditto axle nut. I leant towards the settings I use for similar size bolts on the R60. In the hubbub I have yet to locate a decent set of torque tables.
All I have do is hope the stanchions are firmly tightened in the yolks.Don't fancy a couple of black eyes at the first emergency stop. No idea to what torque all this needs to be at,ditto axle nut. I leant towards the settings I use for similar size bolts on the R60. In the hubbub I have yet to locate a decent set of torque tables.
Earth wires are blue, except the ones that are black!
100 000 miles without breaking down should be possible on a 3 1/2 (not a 500) if it's in regular use. My sport hasn't broken down since I got it in '94- mind you, I haven't done 100 000 miles, but the bike has!
I think fork gaiters look OK on Morinis.
100 000 miles without breaking down should be possible on a 3 1/2 (not a 500) if it's in regular use. My sport hasn't broken down since I got it in '94- mind you, I haven't done 100 000 miles, but the bike has!
I think fork gaiters look OK on Morinis.
. Tank now done and no leaks, though the bottom edges have a black plastic trim which looks suspiciously like a rust trap to me so filled the channel up with waxoyl before replacing them. I have cable tied up all the wiring separately from the control cables and with a combination of heatshrink and petrol pipe have insulated any "rubbing" points.
With all the skill I could muster I snapped the clutch lever clamp on the handlebars (won't be doing that again)
I am going to try and balance the carbs using the "4$ carb tuner" so beloved of us BMW riders.
Next up is to try and get some indicators working again.A rear lug is broken off the frame so I think a touch of welding is coming up.
Questons:
What Engine oil and fork oil to use.
What is a safe power headlight bulb. I favour Phillips VisionPlus bulbs on a bike, but try to avoid the dark due to our 4 legged friends with antlers.
With all the skill I could muster I snapped the clutch lever clamp on the handlebars (won't be doing that again)
I am going to try and balance the carbs using the "4$ carb tuner" so beloved of us BMW riders.
Next up is to try and get some indicators working again.A rear lug is broken off the frame so I think a touch of welding is coming up.
Questons:
What Engine oil and fork oil to use.
What is a safe power headlight bulb. I favour Phillips VisionPlus bulbs on a bike, but try to avoid the dark due to our 4 legged friends with antlers.
Fork oil, that's an interesting topic.
The answer is;
Between SAE 5 and SAE 30
It all depends on what fork internals they fitted that year, month, week, DAY!?
The Blue manual says HLP80, which is 80 weight hydraulic oil. Hydraulic and Gear oil is on a different chart to Engine or Fork oil, but the viscocities overlap. 80 weight gear oil is equivilent to 30 weight engine oil.
I have 30W oil in my '77 Sport and it's over the top, but 10W appeared to have no damping, so I wasn't convinced that 20W was going to be enough. I'll probably drop to 20W before Cadwell as I was running wide on the fast corners. My Valentini project has cartridge emmulators so it will be interesting to see how they perform.
A friend has 15W in his '83 K1 and thinks that's too thick.
You'll probably have to experiment, but start with the heavier oil. Better to be overdamped than underdamped.
The answer is;
Between SAE 5 and SAE 30
It all depends on what fork internals they fitted that year, month, week, DAY!?
The Blue manual says HLP80, which is 80 weight hydraulic oil. Hydraulic and Gear oil is on a different chart to Engine or Fork oil, but the viscocities overlap. 80 weight gear oil is equivilent to 30 weight engine oil.
I have 30W oil in my '77 Sport and it's over the top, but 10W appeared to have no damping, so I wasn't convinced that 20W was going to be enough. I'll probably drop to 20W before Cadwell as I was running wide on the fast corners. My Valentini project has cartridge emmulators so it will be interesting to see how they perform.
A friend has 15W in his '83 K1 and thinks that's too thick.
You'll probably have to experiment, but start with the heavier oil. Better to be overdamped than underdamped.
Paul Compton
http://www.morini-mania.co.uk
http://www.youtube.com/user/EVguru
http://www.morini-mania.co.uk
http://www.youtube.com/user/EVguru