Hi all need to bleed the front brake !
Any good speedy , practical tips greatly received
Cheers
Alan
Bleed Front Drake Disc
Re: Bleed Front Drake Disc
This is one of those brakes where it's extremely easy! *Assuming* everything is clean and works then just use the old 'depress lever whilst bleed nipple open - close bleed nipple, release lever' trick. With a clear hose connected to the nipple then to a container for excess fluid. To start, fill the master cylinder and open the bleed nipple. When you've had a coffee/fag/wotever then you should find you have a full system that just needs some minor bleeding.
You may need to juggle the angle of the master cylinder so that everything flows 'downhill' but apart from that you should be fine.
Dave
PS: assuming a single disk of course .....
You may need to juggle the angle of the master cylinder so that everything flows 'downhill' but apart from that you should be fine.
Dave
PS: assuming a single disk of course .....
Dave
Carpe diem .....
Carpe diem .....
Re: Bleed Front Drake Disc
And....if you pull the lever whilst the master cylinder cap is removed......brake fluid can eject onto your tank.
Re: Bleed Front Drake Disc
I often bleed these brakes from the top, not touching the caliper nipple at all.
If the system is dry, then first crack the master cylinder banjo and pump some fluid through (gloves and a good supply of rags recommended), you can do this at the caliper too. You should then be able to pump the caliper pistons out and push them back which will get a lot of air out of the system.
Pump the lever rapidly for ten seconds or so and then hold it in for another ten.
Release the lever by just letting it go. You usualy get a bubble of air from the return hole.
As the system gets closer to being bled the bubbles get smaller and less frequent.
The way it works is that the rapid pumping breaks the bubbles up into smaller ones that can more easily rise up. You wait while they collect and then the quick release helps 'burp' them from the cylinder.
If the system is dry, then first crack the master cylinder banjo and pump some fluid through (gloves and a good supply of rags recommended), you can do this at the caliper too. You should then be able to pump the caliper pistons out and push them back which will get a lot of air out of the system.
Pump the lever rapidly for ten seconds or so and then hold it in for another ten.
Release the lever by just letting it go. You usualy get a bubble of air from the return hole.
As the system gets closer to being bled the bubbles get smaller and less frequent.
The way it works is that the rapid pumping breaks the bubbles up into smaller ones that can more easily rise up. You wait while they collect and then the quick release helps 'burp' them from the cylinder.
Paul Compton
http://www.morini-mania.co.uk
http://www.youtube.com/user/EVguru
http://www.morini-mania.co.uk
http://www.youtube.com/user/EVguru
Re: Bleed Front Drake Disc
Thanks Guys a great help
Alan
Alan
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- Posts: 37
- Joined: 20 Oct 2009 19:00
- Location: South West Lincs
Re: Bleed Front Drake Disc
I hope you have better luck than I'm having trying to bleed the rear disc on my 500!!!!!
1980 Moto Morini Strada 500
Re: Bleed Front Drake Disc
With some rear brakes eg BMWR100 its worth removing the caliper from its mountings then bleeding it with some packing between the pads and holding the caliper body to allow air to reach the bleed nipple. But the bleed nipple on the Morini is better positioned is it not? I had to replace the seals on my Morini master cylinders but even so the rear showed a reluctance to clear micro-bubbles.I have tried the syringe of brake fluid technique before as well. I then was puzzled by a rusty ball bearing under the bleed nipple for a while until the penny dropped.
Then when it was sorted, the pads started eating the surface coating of the disc. Some softer ones in now.
Then when it was sorted, the pads started eating the surface coating of the disc. Some softer ones in now.