New Strada owner - hello & a switchgear question

[AK99]

Used on the CEV Road & Camel 500 6 contact ignition switch (both 12V & 6V DC circuits)
Probably tha same on later Road 350s?

OFF (centre) - 3 & 4 connected
PILOT (anticlockwise) - 3 & 4, 1 & 6 connected
ON (clockwise) - 1 & 2, 5 & 6 connected

Wire colours to switch spade contacts are - 1 RED, 2 BROWN, 3 GREEN, 4 BLUE, 5 YELLOW/BLACK. 6 YELLOW

RED ---------------- Battery +ve
BROWN ------------ Oil pressure switch/light (If fitted), Brake light, Horn, Indicators
Green -------------- Transducers
BLUE---------------- Earth -ve
YELLOW/BLACK - Pilot & Tail lights
YELLOW ----------- Left handlebar lighting switch

Note - The above switch connections are also distributed further at the fuse box

That's good information, thanks. The only info I've been able to pick up on the 6 pole to-date was off ChatGPT (which can be a bit haphazard at times in terms of accuracy) and that was:

On the 6-pole Moto Morini (3½ / 350) key switch the six terminals are typically used like this:

1 = Red — main battery feed / master on/off.
2 = Brown — main feed return (connects to 1 when key is turned to the retained ON position).
3 = Green — ignition feed (one side of the ignition cut/earth circuit).
4 = Blue — ignition earth/kill side (mates with 3 in the run positions).
5 = Yellow — sidelight / tail supply (park light position).
6 = Yellow/Black — sidelight / tail return (paired with 5 for the parking light position).

That plus: Step-by-Step Continuity Checks

Step Key Position Probes Between. Expected Result. Meaning

1. OFF 1–2 No continuity Main power disconnected
2. OFF 3–4 Continuity Ignition grounded (engine cannot run)
3 OFF 5–6 No continuity Lights off
4 ON (RUN) 1–2 Continuity Main power connected
5 ON (RUN) 3–4 Open circuit Ignition un-grounded (engine can run)
6. ON (RUN) 5–6 Open circuit Lights off (controlled by handlebar)
7. PARK 1–2 Open circuit Main off
8 PARK 3–4 Continuity Ignition grounded (engine off)
9 PARK 5–6 Continuity Tail/sidelights powered

Maybe I'm wrong, but at first glance the two sets of information on continuity seem to me to be different, even though the wiring colours are the same. I'll need to sit down and mull through those at length I think, and get back out to the bike with a multimeter.

Thanks for the additional info though - good to get it.

[George 350]

Hi,
Regarding pins 3 and 4, these should only connect when the ignition switch is in the off position, ie to stop the engine. When running, the green will need to be open circuit, ie. not connected to anything otherwise it won't run.

For anyone else wishing/wanting to recondition their switch, go sparingly with the grease (dielectric grease needed) as it is very easy to have a slight resistance between 3 and 4 resulting in your bike being a bu##er, if not impossible to start.
Wearing the t-shirt on that one.

Regards,
George

[AK99]

Wasn't aware of that phenomenon , but my bike has been hard to kick, and I noticed there's a fairly hefty dollop of grease in and around the contacts on the kill-switch on the bars, so will clean that off just in case it has been a factor.

So...brief update on the problematic switch and suspect wiring:

With the help of the circuit diagram for the 6 pole ignition switched variants in the members' area, I temporarily reconnected the various individual wires, and and ran some power through the main loom to see what's happening and try track down the original problem of zero spark (which led to me pulling apart the switch in the first place).

Turns out the bike has been fitted with the NLM transducer kit and a set of coils - which led to a bit of to-ing and fro-ing between the bike and wiring diagram until I figured out what was what. It would appear that there's zero power feed to either of the coils, and at the minute no obvious explanation as to why.

Based on that, I've ordered a new 6-pole switch from Mdina (the last of the current stock apparently) - and will wire that in to at least take worries on the switch circuitry and connecting out of the equation. I'll also have to go back and dig deeper into the circuit diagram to find out why there's no juice to either of the coils. (I do hate automotive electrics, but has to be done )

Over and above that, whilst I was on to Mdina, I took the trouble to order a new side stand assembly, so hopefully can tick something else off the to-do list.

Will keep y'all posted gents - and thx for all the input so far. Helps keep the spirits up as well as everything else

[MickeyMoto]

I use SWF ignition.

Great customer service and my bike starts on first press of the button.

Mr Lemans is a visitor to this site.