As George says, you probably won't need to take the pulley off to find if the key is in the right slot (and find the dot, if there is one).
Good luck.
Did you get around to popping one of the heads off to check valve seats? It also lets you see down the bore while its off.
About an hour or so ago I fired it up again now that it is daylight and I have plenty of time.
Only ran it up untill it was nice and warm, but I did notice that I could take it off the choke a little earlier than I could before, and it seemed a litle more responsive on a blip of the throttle - might be psychological as I have taken the belt off and put it back on in what looks to be the correct place.
Tempted to take it for a run before pulling the heads off and see how it goes, weather forecast is good over the weekend so it might happen.
Only thing putting me off pulling the heads is the exhaust collar threads, the rearmost most one is not that good, but the front one looks OK.
Current bikes: Kawasaki KH400, Royal Enfield Himalayan, 1200 Triumph Speedmaster, Morini Strada 3 1/2
Just remove the front head. Its the easy one and (assuming the compression is similarly low on both) it will likely be representative of both. Anyway you will have the front head off and back on again within a day. And if it turns out it needs work badly then you know, and you can choose whether its ok to just put the head back on or fix whatever is wrong.
What you say makes perfect sense assuming the exhaust collar thread is OK it is not a long job.
Having never taken one of these apart before, a question about the head gaskets.
I believe they are aluminium or there is a composite version available.
Shining a light at the gasket join on mine I can see that it looks like the aluminium ones have been used as well as some kind of gasket cement - looks rather like the dreaded red hermetite.
Unless the gasket faces are damaged I would not expect to use any kind of sealer, unleess of course the gaskets have been re used, I would imagine that the gaskets are single use.
Current bikes: Kawasaki KH400, Royal Enfield Himalayan, 1200 Triumph Speedmaster, Morini Strada 3 1/2
If you had the composite ones I wouldn't reuse them.
The solid aluminium ones people regularly reuse if they look flat. I think ideally you are supposed to anneal them by playing a blow lamp over them about 5 seconds. They shouldn't need the likes of hermetite.
Mdina if your gasket is too bad.
Getting the exhaust nut off and back on again is easier while the rocker cover, rockers, are removed.
There are some whole threads searchable on this forum about head gaskets.
I have ordered a couple of aluminium head gaskets from Mdina as well as a couple of rocker cover gaskets as one of mine was shot.
Rather than pull it apart as it was a nice day yesterday I thought I would take it out for a ride.
Being absolutley honest I dont think there is anything wrong with it, once warmed up it hapily ticks over at a little under 2000RPM it will trickle along through built up areas when you need to, and out in the open will easily and cleanly rev to the 8500 area.
So for the time being I dont think it warrants taking the heads off to have a look.
Current bikes: Kawasaki KH400, Royal Enfield Himalayan, 1200 Triumph Speedmaster, Morini Strada 3 1/2
Fair comment its your bike after all to do as you wish.
I'm not going to condemn anyone for riding Morinis on a sunny day. My word of caution is that mine was the exactly same, the one that burned out a valve in France. Then it cost me a lot more to fix a valve and a new seat in the head, and the work associated, than it would have done if I had been proactive. The 3½s have good firm compression in normal use. Can't remember it but there is a mileage for lapping the valves, prescribed in the factory manual.
Ever since then I've been keen to avoid the expense
Only time I have had a valve issue ( not counting Trident guides) was on my old Ceefer in 1975, when it burned a crescent out of the exhaust valve. It ran out of spunk (as the Americans say) on steep hills.
And now I know exactly how it felt….
Bearing in mind that both pots feel like they have the same compression I pulled the front head off to take a look, apart from the stuff that looked like red hermetite on the gasket the valves looked fine, so I am assuming the rear pot is the same so I am going to leave that one for now.
Took it out this afternoon, and like last time a pleasure to ride, they certainly like to be revved
Current bikes: Kawasaki KH400, Royal Enfield Himalayan, 1200 Triumph Speedmaster, Morini Strada 3 1/2
Very strange then, that it's compression is low compared to those at Bristol. If the valve seats are good, the bores good and the head gasket ok and it runs fine it hints at maybe it's compression rings being past their best.
Anything else would probably make it a bad runner.
I should have asked, does it tick over ok?
and does the compression improve if you try it when you get back from a ride?
Also I'm thinking did your bike, or the bike on the stand at Bristol have the nikasil cylinders. The compression felt at the kickstarter is definitely higher for the nikasil cylinders.
It ticks over nice ane evenly once warmed up - around 1800RPM according to the "Vageulia" Tacho.
It has no problems revving all the way through to 8500 seems to do it very cleanly.
Since riding it (I dont think the PO had used it much prior to be me buying it), compression seems to have improved a little, but still nothing like the bike at the show.
Pretty sure mine had liners in it so would not be nikasil bores?, not something I looked at that closely TBH.
Thiink I am just going to enjoy riding it for now, seems to be pretty frugal on fuel as well.
Current bikes: Kawasaki KH400, Royal Enfield Himalayan, 1200 Triumph Speedmaster, Morini Strada 3 1/2