Just bought a 1974 Sport

[EVguru]

Grabby clutch and drag is standard

If the clutch is in good condition and set up right, it should be nice and smooth. I've never failed to get a clutch set up to operate smoothly.

There will always be a little drag because it's a dry clutch and there are oil seals.

My clutch rebuild series.
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... mMpvHxFJ38

[corsaro chris]

Hi Chris (and Mike!);

Drag might be usual sometimes, but it's not normal! It's a dry clutch and so oil in the clutch cover might hint at a leak from the engine seal, which can be made worse if you put the bike on the side stand for a long period after a run.

You should be able to put the engine in to first gear from a stand still with the engine running in neutral without a problem. Pulling the clutch in before starting the engine should also mean that the engine doesn't turn (i.e. - no clutch drag). I have my 3½ clutch set so that the lever is just floppy rather than a measured clearance - it's possible that there isn't enough travel to free yours off fully?

Good luck with the fettling!

CC

[dunk 1]

Although it definitely sounds like a clutch problem it's worth checking the rear sets - if the knurled silver disc loosens it can have quite an impact on gear changing. They need greasing regularly as well to move freely - - duncan

[MickeyMoto]

I agree with Duncan, my 500 had that problem. The gear lever would get very tight.

As for the clutch, probably says more about my mechanical skills! Must try harder...

[valentini]

Hi
The following may apply and help, or at least give it a try..

The cable on my 1974 Morini Valentini sport endured the same problem and after a lot of head-scratching I found that the clutch cable was sticking and wasn't operating correctly. Taking it off the bike and thoroughly cleaning it out and ensuring that it was running freely again, and applying very light oil has completely transformed the bike which has now truly improved the performance and general running
I would have expected it to be the cable and your bike has exactly the same symptoms as I had. The cable originally did appear to work ok but the problem wasn't noticable until I removed the cable and checked the movement.

Hope this helps.

[norbert]

Hi Cris,

don´t worry about not finding the neutral gear if you stand at a traffic light! Just move the bike forward about 10- 30 cm and try to enter the neutral in a sensitave way when mooving. It will enter smoothy Soon you will get used to enter the neutral in the last meter before stopping. If once you stand still without mooving the bike it´s not that unusual to have the problem described by you.

The little bit of oil will not be the problem of the clutch. Be aware if you try to loose the special nuts of the clutch with a fissured srew driver. Sometimes they are veeeery tight an there is a certain risk that the stud bolts get loose in the basket. I don´t know how your situation of spareparts is in NZ but this center baskets are quite rare to find in good condition. If you can untie the nuts without problems clean al the discs . there is one disc concav (o convex) This shoud be the first steel plate to enter. You don´t have to use much force to tight the nuts, they can not get loose by themselves! And allways mount them with copper pate, so you can desmount it if necesary. If you fear to brake the stud bolts you can give all the amount a good bath of brake cleaner an simply let it dry. But I don´t think that your problem is an oily clutch, perhas more that old oil sticks the plate together, if the motor didn´t work for a long time. But after 700 km that should be done.
Before opening the clutch first be sure that the cable and all that stuff it right (not much bended/forced, working easily, clearence ...

If you desmount the whole clutch, have a look at the center basket. There will be marks from the steel plates. If they are deep, smooth it a little with a file. Behind the center basket there is a special washer withe 4 ears. They can be of plasic/nylon or brass (or something like that) The plastic one is better!

Good luck with that signorina!!!

norbert

[Db7gtgrigio]

Thanks all for all these great suggestions. Paul, your videos are extremely helpful thanks

Yesterday I dismantled the clutch. I made the tool from the 14mm flat blade screwdriver as specified in blue book and was very pleased that the five screws on clutch cover loosened very easily. The plates are replacement Sureflex and had some oil contamination at the bottom. There was a very small amount of oil in the basket but no obvious leak from the engine seal hopefully it was due to bike being left for years on the sidestand.

The basket is in excellent condition. The dished steel plate was at the outer end. I cleaned all the items in brake cleaner and followed Pauls suggestion to put dished washer as first steel plate in. I do not have a tool to hold the basket so was unable to determine if plastic or brass washer. Minimal end float on the basket.

I reinstalled everything and adjusted clutch lever to give as much travel as possible to try and ensure the plates release properly. Clutch cable smooth and properly routed. It was pouring with rain so I could not test ride but in the workshop I was able to feel the clutch disengaging as I turned the rear wheel with a gear engaged. Felt nice and progressive, let's hope that has sorted it!

FYI previously I could not even get neutral (except on very rare occasions ) but trying to tap the lever down from second while rolling to a stop. I could engage first from standstill but it felt I had to apply excessive pressure to the gear lever and the bike wanted to move forward which indicates clutch drag. Clutch was also binary on off rather than progressive.

Hoping for sun tomorrow so can do test ride.........

[Db7gtgrigio]

Just completed test ride. Bike is transformed. Nice progressive clutch, easy selection of neutral even from standstill. Nice easy pressure required in gear overs. Very pleased thanks very much for all the help. I think a combination of cleaning the plates, changing the position of the dished plate and giving additional leverage at the engine case lever all contributed.

Now, I had better get around to replacing the 1989 Metzelers that are on the bike.........