Foot Rests on the 2c

[jacks the lad]

The foot rest I find are a little too high - my knees are level with the top of the tank - which make me feel as though I am "perched 0n" rather than sat on the machine. The rest themselves are fixed to the frame via a serrated ring. it would seem that slackening them off, turning them rotund one notch would be the answer, but no. However with the gear change linkage fixed to the foot rest arm itself and any attempt to turn it round it then hits the exhaust pipe. On the other side the rest hits something else, so I need to think of some other way.

The photo shows the problem. I could just make up some extensions to drop the rest down from the pivots but that seems a bit crude, better ideas anyone?

[72degrees]

They are adjustable in theory but in practice I've found I always have to have them on the same notch. Having said that I'll go and take a photo of mine (on two 2Cs) later for comparison. You have to careful what fastener you use on the footrest end linkage rose joint or it fouls the frame even when in a 'good' position. Naturally if you do manage to move them 'down a notch' you will have to readjust the linkage to accommodate your boot. The pivot on the footrest for the gear lever and the lever itself wear badly to create 'slop' which doesn't help.

Can't think what it is fouling on the brake side, but once again you need to use the proper clevis pin and spilt pin on the lever to attach the cable, rather than a screw and nut, or the head will prevent full travel of the brake lever.

[jacks the lad]

Can't think what it is fouling on the brake side,
If you look at the photo you will see a small plate projecting downwards, at the right hand end of the the plate that carries the peddle adjusting screw. Its not clear from the photo but there is a gap between it and the brake peddle arm pivot, However it's not a big enough gap to allow the rest to be turned even one notch before it fouls. Could grind a bit off I suppose, but why is it there in the first place? Other that to stop people like me from lowering the rest?

[72degrees]

My two 250s are far from standard. Both have 350 engines with 2:1 exhausts. If I remember correctly the 250 2:2 system is much tighter to the crankcases.
Neither have canister brake light switches (none on the 'racer' obviously and a clamp on generic type on the road bike.

For what help they may be here are three shots (not of the road bike brake setup as that is hanging off while clutch work is underway).

2C-375 Gear.JPG (246.48 KiB) Viewed 20703 times

2C-375 Gear.JPG (246.48 KiB) Viewed 20703 times

Forgotten Error Brake.JPG (200.61 KiB) Viewed 20703 times

[jacks the lad]

Thank you 72degres , the photos proved very useful. The first thing I noticed was that your foot rest were more or less flat i.e. parallel to the ground. If yours could be, why couldn’t mine? As acquired the gear linkage was fitted on the inside, that is towards the crank case, when the foot rest was rotated the linkage hit the lower frame rail. Moving it to the outside cured that, but it now hit the exhaust pipe instead. However by adjusting the brackets that held the (after market) silencers on I was able to move the pipe just sufficient both outward and down to give clearance. So for the offside, result.
For the nearside the problem was a small plate welded to the underside of the footrest arm that fouled the brake peddle pivot, or to be more precise the lobe or cam that operated the brake light switch. As I could not see any reason for it to be there (other than get in the way) I simply ground it off. Once out of the way it was a simple mater to rotate the arm to a lower position, adjust the peddle and cable to suit, job done. Well not quite, needed to reposition the brake light switch.
A quick test run showed the effort to have made a world of difference, all together more comfortable when compared to the “knees under the chin” previously. No doubt there will need to be some more adjustments, handle bars, control leavers etc. to suit me as opposed to the previous owner, but that’s to be expected with second hand machine.

[72degrees]

Oh yes, the pivot needs to fitted 'outboard'. I didn't notice yours wasn't.

When I first built the Forgotten Error I used a 250 2:2 system and made the mistake of putting it on before the gear lever and linkage. I

I'm glad you got it sorted out. I love the adjustable 'ace type ' bars on the road bike but once again they can't be adjusted much at the pivoting ends, though naturally you can turn the bars in the clamps.

[jacks the lad]

Just a quick update, and I am out and about with the machine now. also fitted a rear carrier supplied by a member here (thank you Moriniboy), needed to move the rear indicators though.
Question, should there be a lower rear chain guard? There are some "spare" fixings on the swinging arm that look as though there should be one. Next question of course , has anyone got one?

[mbmm350s]

Re:lower chain guard - yes there is one its plastic. Sorry I haven't a spare one
Mark

[jacks the lad]

Re:lower chain guard - yes there is one its plastic.

Thank you. Made of plastic, "hum" maybe that's why it doesn't have one any more. If I get the chance to look at one some time I might be able to fabricate one from metal, maybe not worth the trouble though other than for the sake of appearances.

[72degrees]

I run my 2C/375 on the road without one. No issues at MoT time. I run the 2C/350 speed hill climber with one because it was easier than rigging up a 'shark's fin' to satisfy the scrutineers.

I have an old one in the shed somewhere that is split, but might be repairable. I'll have a look.

[72degrees]

Here we are. You can see I attempted a repair with some 'bumper repair' but that split again in one place.

IMGP6749.JPG (296.47 KiB) Viewed 20282 times

IMGP6750.JPG (290.43 KiB) Viewed 20282 times

IMGP6749.JPG (296.47 KiB) Viewed 20282 times

[jacks the lad]

Thank you 72. From the photos it would seem that folding one up from sheet metal would not be so difficult now I know what it looks like. Mind you it passed it's last MOT without one.
Are you going the NMM open day on the 27th Oct? Maybe see you there.

[72degrees]

Thank you 72. From the photos it would seem that folding one up from sheet metal would not be so difficult now I know what it looks like. Mind you it passed it's last MOT without one.
Are you going the NMM open day on the 27th Oct? Maybe see you there.

<Googles>
Possibly. I shall also try to get to the Stafford show, but may be away Friday & Saturday on the ER6n, but might go straight there on the Sunday.

[Parker3865]

An old post but I thought I would add what I have just done. I am finding the bike a little small for my aching joints.

At the Owners Rally I noticed one bike that had the handlebars rotated so that they curved up not down. Spacers had been added under the instrument console so the clutch cable cleared the tacho side. Another bike, as described earlier in this post, had the footpegs moved down by a serration, with the brake and gear change adapted to fit.

Spacers made and fitted to the instrument console and I can use the handlebars 'up side down' raising them by about 25mm.
With the pegs I could get the brake side to work with a little fettling of the brake pedal BUT I could not get the gear change linkage to fit between the frame and exhaust pipe with out it fouling, or having to modify the exhaust pipe and silencer position. So I have made some lowered footpegs instead, about 30mm lower.
Rode today and the bars and footrests together have much improved the comfort of the bike for me.

[Ming]

Strada bars fit nicely, though I had to change the master cylinder and hydraulic line to get a neat fit.