MRC Forum- brought to you by www.morini-riders-club.com

Thought I'd move my ramblings to here.
Kanguro.
Ignition key was cause of some issues. Bypassing blue/green I now have sparks.
Linking red to yellow and yellow/black I have horn and idiot lights but not indicators or brake lights but handlebar switch badly cracked so may be more poor contacts.
500
All charging/ignition missing except transducers/coils, so after goos used versions please.
Engine isn't seized as such, via clutch I can "rewind" engine about 75% of cycle and advance on kick start, so suspect dropped valve causing engine lock.

Progress today. Bypassing ignition switch but replicating connections.
All indicators work, rear light works,horn works once replaced with a new one, front brake light works but rear switch has too much resistance, has 6v but only 3v output so new switch required.
Anybody know a source?
Have emailed mdina about their listed ignition switch to see if correct one.
Next up, remove carbs and ultrasonically clean before attempting to start with remote tank. Coming along.

Bizarre...
Just removed the heads, with front off it still locked, after removing rear it cranks over fine yet the head looks in good condition.
Am left assuming it was a sticking valve, although the adjusters were at opposite extremes, one almost all the way down, the other almost all the way up. Lots of crud in piston combustion area but no evidence of contact.
I should be pleased but left suspicious.
Thoughts/views appreciated.

I would remove the valves and see if they look straight in the first instance. It might have had a cambelt break.Any evidence with the pushrods?

Pushrods all look straight and round and no breakages. Good idea to drop the valves out.

remove the valves and check the valve seats ,
i've had 500 valve seats dropping out , and back in.

Cracking day on the Kanguro today. Carbs off stripped and given several runs in the ultrasonic bath, then carb cleaner through all orifices and another quick bath.
Reassembled, connected remote fuel tank and 4 kicks later she was purring like a kitten.
Then having taken handlebar switch apart and check functions, I rigged a live feed to handlebar switch brown and voila, tail light etc now work with switch, and with engine running I have main beam. Dip is playing hard to get but bulb OK.
So close but no cigar.
Very happy she runs, happy I kept at electrics.
Will drain shitty black old oil and refresh before running too long to solve dip issue.
Now not sure whether to leave the 6v/12v system or go full 12v dc.

3potjohn wrote: ↑03 Apr 2023 18:02 I would remove the valves and see if they look straight in the first instance. It might have had a cambelt break.Any evidence with the pushrods?

Morini valves dont hit a piston with a belt-breakage I was always told by that Morini guru Nigel Price. It's at worst an inconvenience, is my understanding and being heron headed, even if they were to, surely the worst that could happen is they'd just be pushed back up into their seats?