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Hi newbie to both the club and to moto morinis. I did the unthinkable and bought this off ebay as a non runner sight unseen.!
I was told it was part of an estate collection of motorcycles and had been running prior to the owner dying.
Turned out that was not true. I know you are as surprised as I was.
As you can see from the picture the tank is off and the electric start cover. The ignition system turned out to be shot with both faulty coils and the wrong pickup. The electric start doesnt and that could be anything.
Ive fitted a saches ignition system and it runs!. Engine sound beautiful and it ticks over a treat. The wiring looks like a battle field with shocking connections and taped up ends of wires coming from god know where. Its also got a boyer regulator fitted. I suspect its had a major electrical problem.
Its 50 shades of red and two of the instrument lights are broken. I also am fitting a replacement left side switch assembly as the current one is broken.
I am going to convert all lights to Led to help the old generator.
My objective is to get this on the road by April as a running restoration. Ride it during the good weather and restomod it during the winter. I will get the wheels blasted and put back to gold and fit new tyres soon.
I am really looking forward to riding this to some local cafes and classic motor hub ( Bibury) meets during the summer. Hope 2023 is a good motorcycling year

Well if it runs and ticks over you are high up there in the don't complain, it could be worse category!

I'm sure you know but if you are in any doubt about how long ago the engine ran or when the cambelt was changed that's a priority before anything else.

Welcome to Morini world! Those bikes can make a good all rounder so I hope it lives up to your expectations. You'll also find the club and this forum helpful and a very useful resource. If you haven't already found them, there are a number of good how-to type videos on youtube. Some from Paul Compton and some from Soren in Denmark. The various videos Paul did about the starter motor and it's gearbox should be worth a look for you-the starters can be made to do the job well and it isn't anything difficult, just that the way it was designed and fitted as a stop-gap or afterthought makes the Norton Commando starter look like a design classic.

That bike looks a lot better than my 500 Frankenstein project a year ago.
It looks like as if the carbs are fixex additionally. If not, you should do it with these filters to take care of the rubber intake manifolds.

Thanks for the replies.
I have just ordered a new cambelt and puller tool. Also new fuel lines , spark plugs , leads and rear brake master cylinder seals. The brake fluid drained over the frame causing some nasty paint damage.
I am going to use Valvoline VR1 motor oil as its got a high zinc and phosphorous content and should help the old bearings and tappets etc.
I have also ordered some 15v bidirectional transient suppressors to scatter round the electrical system following your comment. The Saches system is too expensive to get damaged.
I am hoping to weld a support on the frame and fit some metal carb supports. They were supported by cable ties to main fram which is not good. Proper metal support is better.
I have looked at the Paul Compton videos and they are great. Helped me diagnose the faulty ignition system.
Also on the website was a great article on fitting the saches ignition system. I am sure I will be a regular searcher for info.
If anyone is interested I will post pics of the mods as I go

new coils fitted

Hi bought this 50mm throat c spanner. Ground it down to be a bit thinner and it is great on the castellated exhaust nuts to the heads. £5.48. Bargain

I'm all for a bargain but I think you've missed a trick on the exhaust spanner. The ones made and sold via the forum are way better than any ordinary C spanner. They grip several castellations rather than just one and do not lift, slip or round off.

That is true!
But on the other hand such a solid one doesn´t hurt the crowns that much. I´ve used one of this for decades.

Anyhow there is a way to improve the tool (this one and probably the new ones as well):
Instead of the bore to hang it on a nail you can modify the grip end of the tool with a file or flex to convert it into a tool for the slut nuts of the clutch. A nice improvement to carry it with you when travelling

norbert wrote: ↑24 Jan 2023 11:46
Anyhow there is a way to improve the tool (this one and probably the new ones as well):
Instead of the bore to hang it on a nail you can modify the grip end of the tool with a file or flex to convert it into a tool for the slut nuts of the clutch. A nice improvement to carry it with you when travelling

Great idea. When travelling it's best if every tool has multiple purpose.
The other end of mine (an MZ spanner) is a tyre lever.
Mark

Looks like you will have a good time this summer.That tool shows how clever us Swindonians are. The Motor Hub was not there when I lived that way.Had to make do with feeding the trout.A bit of a scam really.
John

I think a topic like "tools for trevelling" would be worth an own thread, without invading this one
Surely there would come up a lot of interesting ideas.

At last some progress. Rewiring done with new left hand switchgear off yamaha ATV. Old rear mudguard was split and rusted so fitted a secondhand stainless one from mdinia along with a new front one to match same supplier. Unfortunately all the brake calipers are seized up and need rebuilding. The copper hard brake pipes are also seized into the calipers and I have had to drill out. Waiting for a 10mm x 1mm tap and pipe making kit to turn up. Front caliper seal kit available for mdinia but not rear. Rear caliper luckily is the best of the three and rubbers look good. Fitted new BT46 tyres. 100/90 front and 110/90 rear.

Very interested in the Yamaha atv switch on the LHS!! Was it one you had laying about or sourced specifically?

Nice to see you are getting stuck in. With regard to LEDs, I have a LED tail light, courtesy of Paul Goff. I also put red led instrument backlights in, just to be a bit of a smart arsre. I found that coloured LED mini wedges for the idiot lights were actually too bright, being dazzling for night riding. The most useful would be the “Turn” indicator light but that is a bit more involved due to the polarity of the led and I could not be bothered. I have a concave Cibie headlight, beloved of the Yamaha fraternity with a rather old VisionPlus bulb. Seems to work. I avoid night riding nowadays due to four legged stuff and potholes.
The starter motor will, like me, respond to a good strip and clean.
John