Update

[Dave]

Currently the bike is running well only at temperatures above 35 C below that and at startup its a lumpy bitch of a thing. So what has been done? Relays a total red herring. Tank clean no water in fuel and the fuel pump running at the correct pressure with the return valve thingy all spot on. The plugs and O2 censor totally black soot and dry. The theory is that the O2 censor analises the fuel mix and tells the ECU to provide the right mix to the injectors so one or both must be faulty. The Ecu is showing a faulty cooling fan which isent so we doubt the sincerety of its messages. The bike has Termis fitted and since they come with a race ECU which does away with the O2 censor that was fitted. We have the correct mixture because this ECU alows fine tuning and when up to temperature its bloody marvellous its just the start up thing. Does anyone else run their Corsaro with Termigonis ECU and open pipes and how does it run?
PS im a big supporter of the solidatity thing together we will surrive.
Dave

[morini_tom]

Dave,

what exactly do you mean when you say the ECU is showing a faulty cooling fan? If there is a coolant circuit fault (temp sensor faulty, broken thermostat etc) then the ECU will read either an incorrect temperature, or it will diagnose a fault. If the coolant temperature is wrong, not known or not trusted then the fuelling will also be wrong as there is a correction for temperature in the injected fuel quantity.

i.e. incorrect fuelling does not necessarily mean than the 02 sensor or ECU are faulty.

What temperatures do you see on the dash for ambient air temp and engine coolant temp when you first roll the bike out of the garage in the morning and during warmup- i.e. are they plausible values?

And when you say it runs well only above 35 deg C- I assume you mean coolant temp as 35 ambient is pretty warm! In any case, it should only take a couple of minutes to get to 35 deg coolant temp and normal operating temp will be in the 80 deg region so it shouldn't really be a problem as you will almost never run at 35 deg.

If it is taking a long time to warm up past 35 deg then I suggest you look to the thermostat and coolant temp sensor for your problems, before you look elsewhere.

I am suprised to hear that the race ECU does away with the o2 sensor- what makes you think that? If this is the case then it's even more crucial that the ECU knows correct engine temperatures etc as it has no other way to compensate for incorrect fuelling when running open loop.

I've not ridden a corsaro with the race ecu and open termis but I suspect they didn't spend much time getting it to fuel perfectly from cold as most will be ridden warmed up on track. Also, the corsaro does seem to run pretty rich, I suspect even more so on the race ECU, so sooty plugs and a bit of rough running are probably to be expected.

One last thing- when you change the ECU you MUST have the TPS reset. if this hasn't been done since fitting the race ECU, or you've switched ECUs then that's probably your problem.

Hope you can get it sorted, and keep us updated on your findings- as you say, together we can survive!

Tom

[twisty]

sorry for leading you up the path with the dirty fuel issue, is the cat knackered by any chance ?

[Dave]

Im no expert this is information that I receive from previous owner and the mechanic trying to sort the bitch out.
The previous owner did run the bike for a while with the race ECU and he stated that this does away with the O2 sensor. My mechanic agreed with this statement. The factory ECU does not allow you to hook up to a laptop and adjust the fuel air mix but the race ECU allows this to be done. The previous owner reported that with the race ECU fitted the bike ran rich but he did not have the facilities to adjust the fuel air mix so he resorted to the factory ECU.
The factory ECU showed a Fault in the right hand cooling fan and plainly it was working fine. The air temperature on the dash is a true indication of the weather and its the engine temperature of 35+ degrees as shown on the dash that im talking about. There are NO faults showing on the race ECU and only the fan problem showing on the factory ECU. So its back to the drawing board and a list of things to check keep the suggestions comming and I will keep you updated with any progress we might make.
cheers Dave

[corsaro chris]

Dave;

Early Corsaros were noted for being "difficult" until warmed up. Mine ran in the low 80s on the open road and up to mid 90s in traffic, when the cooling fans cut in.

We were advised to let the thing idle for a minute or so before pulling off (very old fashioned, I know) and that would take the temperature above 35. I suggest you try that - warming up - and sod the gentle ear drums of the neighbours!

Try a compression test - I also had a chipped valve which ruined the tickover when NLM tried to reset it at a service (repaired under warrenty, bless).

When I had starting problems (faulty stepper motor) I had to start with the throttle just held open, as it wouldn't pick up when it fired. The factory computer progarmme has more functionality than the generic Italian Bike one - worth seeing if that helps.

Good luck!

CC

[Dave]

Thanks Chris any advise is welcome. Prior to the current situation the bike fired up real easy and I always let it warm up before going out (very understanding neighbours) Its just too lumpy and it needs constant throttle blips to get it up to temperature and then its brilliant. Once warmed it runs fine so could poor compression react like that? We will do a compression test although I suspect that has been done I will keep you all informed if it is sorted.
cheers Dave

[twisty]

thermostat, have you checked?

[morini_tom]

thermostat, have you checked?

Exactly. Dave, we can only help if you answer our questions, so;

Do the thermostat and coolant temp sensor work properly?
Physically check the thermostat and while you're at it stick the coolant temp sensor in a cup of boiling water and check that the ambient and boiling temp readings on the dash are sensible.

How long is it taking to warm up past 35?

Has the TPS been reset for the race ECU?

Does it behave the same on the factory ecu with the baffles in the exhaust as well as race ecu with them out. Remember tps reset when you change ecu.

As Chris says, have you checked the stepper motor?

Are there any other modifications to the bike?

And finally for now, find out what that fan fault is all about- you may find that the race ecu does away with some diagnostics so the fact it's not reporting a fault may not mean the fault isn't there. Do some electrical checks on the fan. Measure current draw with it unplugged and plugged in etc.

[franky]

I ran the open pipes with the normal ecu and it was fine, same with the race ecu before getting the TPS set and it was fine just a little lumpy