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Clearly failed in the man part as I followed instructions...... As I used the PVL coils that was probably the trickiest bit to make sure of clearance under the tank - both coils needed to face backwards. A few cables needed making up from the box to the coils, rev counter, fuse box and earth so a ha...

Mine installed, first kick start and steady idle at 1400rpm and a steady tachometer needle which is a novelty (no it's not stuck!). Fair bit of electrics to make up as used new coils (the PVL ones do just fit under the tank) and a bracket needed for the control box - under the left hand cover, other...

To check fuel flow just see how long it takes for a known quantity to flow into a container. Some back of an envelope maths - at say 90mph a Morini is probably getting at worst 30mpg, so in an hour 3 gallons of fuel (13.5l) would be used - assuming a larger tank would be fitted of course!! So if you...

Certainly ensure wiring connections and earths are good, the latter particularly! Also the original relays are essentially the bimetallic strip type where volts and heat do the switching and lack of sufficient volts and a recalcitrant strip(!) cause alll sorts of non flashing etc. Changing to an ele...

You can up my maybe to a definite for a 350 Sport - just don't tell the wife........at least it will be a small enough package to appear to be not too expensive.........

Obviously connections and earths, but also consider (if not after originality) an LED electronic flasher relay that sends a regular 12V pulse to the switch regardless of load - a few pounds from a foreign land via a well known auction site..... needs a minor wiring tweak but has proved very reliable...

Could well be interested too. Currently have the NLM set up which, though it works in the sense the bike starts and idles, I have never been comfortable with the engineering of the pick up. Setting it was a pain, the engineering was not to a high standard and the slots needed filing to start to get ...

A few more pictures as I could only add 3 in the original post...

Lots of debate on LED's in headlights and the dazzle and disappointment despite lots of light output. Bought a few LED 'bulbs' for the standard light and none have been any good as many have said. So into plan B, change the light unit completely - plenty out there claiming wonderful things if my Man...

Also went the Ebay less than £15 delivered from China route for a new lever set up on mine - as others have said it transforms the braking - feel, power, mirror mount and a brake light switch........ and bolts straight on without problem. (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7-8-Right-Brake-Master-Cylinder-H...

Check all the earth connections on the lighting circuits first and then if no joy disconnect one component at a time to find the source of the problem.

Also had to file the slots and adjust pick up gap/setting to get my NLM system to work properly. Could really do with more filing to get the timing spot on. Agree for the price a more accurately machined/manufactured set of parts should have been possible. Some of the other options out there may hav...

As an aside to this, using a new electronic flasher unit (choose your Chinese source for under £5 delivered) will provide a steady flashing rate regardless of battery state and bulb load/type. If you are not into originality then this is a better solution for stable indicators by sending a constant ...

Fitted ones from Unity equipe years ago (UNA7A - about £5 each) but not sure if they are still in business as website has a 2015 catalogue for download...... However any of those sort seem to work eg https://www.thunderbirdspares.com/petrol-tank-mounting-rubber-pair-for-alloy-tank-cafe-racers-etc-12...

The logo is for Doherty - they made brake and control levers for just about all 40's/50's/60's British bikes of all sizes and shapes. Genuine logo ones are more valuable, but plenty of recently manufactured copies readily available.