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Hi Guys, I got a response from Mdina - which has answered my questions. I've posted it here in case anyone else has similar questions: Maybe the other option would be to get them honed and and go with a set of oversize rings first which would save you some cash. https://www.mdinaitalia.co.uk/piston-...

Hi Guys; What seemed like a relatively simple base gasket change has revealed that the cylinder bores look corroded/worn. I measured the bore diameter with a vernier, and they are 61.96mm - 61.98mm, close enough to the original 62 mm bore as stated in the specs of the bluebook. I assume that the pis...

Thanks Mark, thats clear on the block post studs, I misread Harry's post.

Yes, both blocks are marked A but installed opposite - would this be right or OK? Can't seem to figure this out from the Blue Book?

Thanks

Thanks for the information guys, really helpful.

My only query is on the rocker nuts - If I've read your post correct Harry then you say the 7mm rocker nuts are not Nyloc - but I seem to have them installed, perhaps a previous owner upgrade?

Thanks again.

- Darren

Hi there, I am planning on replacing the head and base gaskets after the summer (all are weeping a small amount) and just starting to collect all the necessary parts. So far this forum has given me all the guidance and recommendations including using new NYLOC cylinder head stud nuts (and rocker stu...

Thanks for the information George, I did see the earlier post and have been trying to track down the 'black' sleeve. I get now how it all connects, although installing ready-made OEM/replica sleeves would be my preference if they still exist. I'll drop Mdina a note now that I am a bit clearer on the...

My 1978 Sport has the carb connections to the inlet of the cylinder with a metal flange. There is a plastic insulating spacer identified as an 'Anti-thermic flange'. Mine's cracked and I am struggling to find a replacement (any ideas?). That said, I notice that a lot of people convert this carb type...

Hi Guys, Thanks for your tips. I eventually found a long piece of steel rod and ground the end to a taper so it would 'jam' in the hole of the top of the damper rod whilst I tightened up the bottom bolt. No idea of torque, but not that high as eventually the damper rod would turn even with the taper...

Hi everyone, my first post so please go easy on me...and apologies that this is actually not a new thread but me hijacking a response to a previous thread but it gives all the background needed for my question: I have been steadily rebuilding my 1978 350 Sport and found this forum and Paul & Sor...