Tarozzi rearsets and a Morini 350 Sport.....
Having just had 'fun' fitting the Tarozzi rear sets to my 350 Sport (1978 model, front disc and cast wheel, no electric start), thought I would share the issues.
Gearchange side - dead easy and obvious, even easier if change split pins for R clips, just make sure that you have the correct rose joints to take out the play. Clevis joints if still fitted can be re-used but it would be a shame to spoil the rest of the conversion.
- Apply a little grease to the moving bits and Copaslip to the threads before bolting it all up and don't forget to tighten the footrest bolt before fitting to bike as the swinging arm gets in the way otherwise! Make sure it folds correctly as well - downwards is not recommended.....
- Then simply remove old footrest, put a shot of grease into the swinging arm grease nipple, remove (and safely store) the grease nipple. Use appropriate bolts (and they do fit) to fit new footrest hanger.
- Adjust rose joints to get most comfortable position for foot, refit clevis pins and enjoy.
- Ultimate purists can get stainless clevis pins (6mm x 15mm) and R clips.
- 20 minutes max, so start this side!!
Brake/Kickstart side - on the brake side it is definitely more interesting:
- Remove old footrest and grease nipple in swinging arm (having put in a shot of grease first!).
- Remove rear brake pedal and brake light switch. Remove wires from switch, tape up and hide temporarily out of harms way.
- Remove exhaust system (at least LHS) which may be fun if it hasn't been separated for some time.....took me most of a day, a Dremel and lots of brute force!! May get away with just loosening off all the joints including that at the exhaust port - if so then remove heat shield completely.
- Remove rear brake cable completely, keeping the slotted pivot pin from the brake arm (you did remember to buy a new cable with the in-line switch fitted didn't you????).
- Trim (or completely remove) the redundant switch holder bracket on the cable stop (Tarozzi part 02 0075). Leaves nice rusty mark after a time having looked at other bikes - why not offer a modified one without the switch holder?? Cut locknut (02 0076) to half thickness and then fit nut to cable stop. Grind them both down when fully bolted up to allow for clearance against bike frame (a few thou is enough!!). Worth adding a bit of Loctite probably but design tweak would remove all this unnecessary work!!!!
- Now take your new rear brake cable to an electrical factor/wholesaler and blag/steal a suitable waterproof/protective rubber gland for the rear brake switch - crazy that it doesn't come with one as contacts exposed etc. Fit gland after softening in hot water and secure with a small cable tie. Add new terminals to wire, fit to switch - doesn't matter which way round they go - and route wire appropriately. Note that there doesn't seem to be any adjustment to the switch as to when it activates.
- Grease and tighten footrest fittings and then fit footrest hanger to frame and fit rear brake cable. Fitting front end of brake cable to new rearset fiddly (needed also to drill out cable end to 6mm to match rearset hole) use an R clip and long thin pliers - much easier to fit than split pin. Oh and remember to fit to the operating arm on the footrest before attaching the other end to the brake arm........
- Probably find you need to move the rear brake arm round one spline (why not have a slightly longer cable to match the original) and modify the adjuster nut (take about 1mm off two opposite flats) at the rear to clear the brake arm properly - again unnecessary work......
- Now refit exhaust system (easiest instruction, almost the fiddliest job!!) making sure it clears new footrest hanger - there is just room but the exhaust/silencer/balance pipe connections will probably be slightly different to before. (I have an Armours stainless system, but should be little different for others). The heat shield on the exhaust pipe is awfully close to the new brake pedal - may need an 'adjustment' here on some bikes as well I suspect.
- Remove kickstart and fit the kick start extender block (you did remember to buy this as well didn't you...) remembering to transfer the small spring and ball detent mechanism from the kickstart to the block. Fit of the block to kickstart is very sloppy - could be a better, more positive fit but it works.
- You may find that you may have to reduce the length of the brake pedal by about 5mm to get clearance - use a good hacksaw (its only alloy) and take same off the bolt length.
- Check it all works - try kickstart gently at first for clearance and REMEMBER TO FOLD UP THE LH FOOTREST BEFORE USING THE KICK START!!
Now go and renew acquaintance with family, friends etc and remove beard growth and excess number of plasters....fit crash hat and go for ride.....
Still it now looks good, and the ride is now comfortable, but for around £200 in all it could have been made rather easier - particularly for anyone without patience, a Dremel and grinding gear.
Happy (and comfortable) riding!
Robin Thomas
Morini 350 Sport, Warwickshire
February 2004
Tarozzi Rearsets - Basics
BUY:
- Tarozzi rear set kit 03 0035 (NLM ref 130035)
- Brake cable with built-in stop light switch (360119)
- Kick start extender block (380115 Mod)
- 2 rose joints (if not already fitted) - (240308) second hand
ones usually clean up nicely to save a bit of cash
- 3 x 6mm R clips, preferably in stainless (also 3 new clevis pins if worn)
- Two spade connectors (blue insulators, 6mm female)
- Small black cable tie
- Electrical gland of unknown type, (similar to those used on
Pyro cabling but in black!) Looks like a little pixie hat - approx
20-23mm diam at large end, closed at other end and about 60mm
long.
TOOLS:
- 10/12/13/17mm spanners
- 3/5/8mm Allen keys
- Crimping tool
- Exhaust clamp C spanner
- Dremel or similar small grinding/cutting tool
- Long nose pliers
- Hacksaw
- Plasters (Elastoplast fabric ones best)