Thanks in anticipation Phil
rough running kanguro
rough running kanguro
Just bought a 82 kanguro x ,starts 1st or 2nd kick hot and cold,idles well ,doesnt smoke and runs OK up to about 5000 rpm,where it rapidly runs out of puff,with a good tail wind it will just about hit 60mph...i've stripped,cleaned and checked the carbs ,112 main jet,needle on top notch,all else looks to be OK..have strobed the timimng which is also Ok,both plugs have a good spark,i've been told that the stator may need rewinding but this usually results in poor starting ,and the bike always starts well...can anyone give me any pointers in the right direction on what else to try please.
Thanks in anticipation Phil
Thanks in anticipation Phil
Phil,
I run an '84 Kanguro but amongst other mods have also changed the gearing from the 47 tooth to a 38 tooth rear sprocket. Mine will pull an indicated 85mph+ at about 7500 rpm but will not pull any further in 6th. What revs are you showing at 60mph. Regarding your main jet 112 sounds quite high, my Kanguro stock came with a 92 and even now with k&n's fitted I am only running a 114. The stator coil could be an issue but can be checked, to check your stator coil measure the resistance between the green wire and white ( or earth), there are differing views on the best resistance ranging from 170 - 300 ohms. Mine is running fine on a 250 ohm coil. Check all the rubber elbows between carbs and air filter for splits or cracks that could cause air leaks. Also in the air filter, check the air filter is not choked up you might find what looks like a plastic flower pot around the air filter, you could try removing as it restricts air flow . I did'nt have space for the std airbox so run k&n's. Another item to check is the breather hoses for the carbs ( 2 per carbs) are routed high up under the tank in still air. Let us know how you get on.
Regards
Robin
I run an '84 Kanguro but amongst other mods have also changed the gearing from the 47 tooth to a 38 tooth rear sprocket. Mine will pull an indicated 85mph+ at about 7500 rpm but will not pull any further in 6th. What revs are you showing at 60mph. Regarding your main jet 112 sounds quite high, my Kanguro stock came with a 92 and even now with k&n's fitted I am only running a 114. The stator coil could be an issue but can be checked, to check your stator coil measure the resistance between the green wire and white ( or earth), there are differing views on the best resistance ranging from 170 - 300 ohms. Mine is running fine on a 250 ohm coil. Check all the rubber elbows between carbs and air filter for splits or cracks that could cause air leaks. Also in the air filter, check the air filter is not choked up you might find what looks like a plastic flower pot around the air filter, you could try removing as it restricts air flow . I did'nt have space for the std airbox so run k&n's. Another item to check is the breather hoses for the carbs ( 2 per carbs) are routed high up under the tank in still air. Let us know how you get on.
Regards
Robin
1984 Kanguro X1 home built special.
'Using yesterday's technology to create tomorrow's problem's today'
'Using yesterday's technology to create tomorrow's problem's today'
Thanks for that Robin...spent acouple of hours messing with thebike over the weekend,reading between green and white wires from stator shows around 290 ohms,which i believe is pretty good,stripped carbs again and experimented with different needle positions,with them on middle notch it seems to run a lot better,took it for a spin and got up to 73mph!!...
Also checked valve clearances which were spot on (.004"),and tore the rear rocker gasket in the process Doh!..whilst out riding it, gear selection became progressively more and more difficult,to the point where i was struggling to change down the gears (up changes were Ok),eventually got home and tried to make clutch adjustments ,and found that the cable is out of adjustment,tried adjusting at the clutch arm end but its still dragging...will be buying a set of plates and new cable asap.
Will keep you posted.
Phil.
Also checked valve clearances which were spot on (.004"),and tore the rear rocker gasket in the process Doh!..whilst out riding it, gear selection became progressively more and more difficult,to the point where i was struggling to change down the gears (up changes were Ok),eventually got home and tried to make clutch adjustments ,and found that the cable is out of adjustment,tried adjusting at the clutch arm end but its still dragging...will be buying a set of plates and new cable asap.
Will keep you posted.
Phil.
Phil
Regarding clutch, mine had really bad dragging clutch when I bought it. I stripped it down and cleaned the plates with brake/clutch cleaner spray and cleaned out the basket of years of built up dust. Measure the plates as they may just need a clean. Another item to check on clutch is the end float, this is the movement of the clutch hub against the basket. See link below for details as it may need re-shimming, I thought I would need new plates but my clutch has been perfect since cleaning/adjusting:-
http://www.morini-riders-club.com/thebi ... lutch.html
Keep us updated.
Regards
Robin
Regarding clutch, mine had really bad dragging clutch when I bought it. I stripped it down and cleaned the plates with brake/clutch cleaner spray and cleaned out the basket of years of built up dust. Measure the plates as they may just need a clean. Another item to check on clutch is the end float, this is the movement of the clutch hub against the basket. See link below for details as it may need re-shimming, I thought I would need new plates but my clutch has been perfect since cleaning/adjusting:-
http://www.morini-riders-club.com/thebi ... lutch.html
Keep us updated.
Regards
Robin
1984 Kanguro X1 home built special.
'Using yesterday's technology to create tomorrow's problem's today'
'Using yesterday's technology to create tomorrow's problem's today'
Stripped clutch this morning,the final two plates,one metal one fibre were stuck fast,managed to loosen them enough to prise them out,thoroughly cleaned them ..they were all well within the wear limits,manual says 3.5mm,...checked condition of push rods,order they came out of flywheel end was;short fat one,ball bearing,2 long ones,is this correct?any way they all looked OK,so gave everything a good clean and put them all back etc...bought a new clutch cable,fitted it and the only way i can get the bike to select first gear is to have the clutch arm adjusted about 50mm from casing (book says 15mm!!),i have tried every combination of adjustment at bar end and at actuating end...the only way i can see to get round it would be to extend the slot in the flywheel casing!!.so that the actuating arm does not foul it....Can anyone tell me what i'm missing please??
Phil.
Phil.
Phil
If everything is fitted back as it was, I noticed you replaced the clutch cable, have you compared the old and new clutch to check they are the same? ie the inner on the new clutch might be a different length?
Regards
Robin
If everything is fitted back as it was, I noticed you replaced the clutch cable, have you compared the old and new clutch to check they are the same? ie the inner on the new clutch might be a different length?
Regards
Robin
1984 Kanguro X1 home built special.
'Using yesterday's technology to create tomorrow's problem's today'
'Using yesterday's technology to create tomorrow's problem's today'
Welcome to the latest problem encountered with my newly purchaced Kanguro,almost as an afterthought i decided it would probably be a good idea to change the cam belt,being uncertain of its history etc..anyway managed to get the flywheel locking nut off,but when i screw in the puller and attempt to turn the screw it just pulls out of the flywheel ,i have screwed the puller as far into the Flywheel as it will go,and all it has done has stripped the threads of the puller!.
Does anyone have any alternative methods for extracting the flywheel,or will i have to resort to taking it in to let the experts at NLM have alook?actually the belt looks like its reasonably new with clear red writing on it,and the tension is as it says in the manuals,so i'm half tempted to just leave it and try again with a different puller some time in the future.
Phil.
Does anyone have any alternative methods for extracting the flywheel,or will i have to resort to taking it in to let the experts at NLM have alook?actually the belt looks like its reasonably new with clear red writing on it,and the tension is as it says in the manuals,so i'm half tempted to just leave it and try again with a different puller some time in the future.
Phil.
Phil,
Did the thread strip off the puller when you tightened the bolt or when you tightened the puller into the flywheel ?(the puller only needs to be hand tight into the flywheel), if the threads have stripped off the puller you are ok as hopefully the threads are intact on the flywheel. I am not sure a conventional finger type puller will fit. I would be tempted to get another threaded puller and try with that.
Regards
Robin
Did the thread strip off the puller when you tightened the bolt or when you tightened the puller into the flywheel ?(the puller only needs to be hand tight into the flywheel), if the threads have stripped off the puller you are ok as hopefully the threads are intact on the flywheel. I am not sure a conventional finger type puller will fit. I would be tempted to get another threaded puller and try with that.
Regards
Robin
1984 Kanguro X1 home built special.
'Using yesterday's technology to create tomorrow's problem's today'
'Using yesterday's technology to create tomorrow's problem's today'
Stripped threads in the flywheel are not unheard of. People often forget to take the spring washer out so the puller doesn't screw all the way in. The flywheel can be quite stubborn to get off and the propper tool is an air or electric impact wrench.
DO NOT use a hammer on the puller bolt, or use a manual impact driver.
Hitting the end of the crank will put dents in the crankshaft ball race!
If the threads in the flywheel are damaged then you can get it off quite easily by MIG welding the puller into the flywheel. The resultant heat will also help. Once the flywheel is off it might be possible to build up the threads with weld and re-machine them, but the flywheels aren't too hard to come by.
As far as the clutch goes;
All the plates should be flat except one steel plate, which should be slightly conical.
Do the plates move freely on the hub and in the basket? Take off any burrs, but if the hub or basket are badly worn, they will need replacing (they can be hard plated and re-cut).
Does the pressure plate lift square? Pull the lever in whilst trying to turn the engine over with the kickstart. The pressure plate should be rotating 'flat' not wobbling. If it isn't lifting square you probably need new springs, but check that there aren't burrs on the clutch studs. The spring cups can stretch, but you can give them a squeeze in a vice (make sure they're still in the pressure plate).
The release lever can wear and need building up where it bears on the pushrod. The adjustment I use is as far out as possible without fouling the side case.
DO NOT use a hammer on the puller bolt, or use a manual impact driver.
Hitting the end of the crank will put dents in the crankshaft ball race!
If the threads in the flywheel are damaged then you can get it off quite easily by MIG welding the puller into the flywheel. The resultant heat will also help. Once the flywheel is off it might be possible to build up the threads with weld and re-machine them, but the flywheels aren't too hard to come by.
As far as the clutch goes;
All the plates should be flat except one steel plate, which should be slightly conical.
Do the plates move freely on the hub and in the basket? Take off any burrs, but if the hub or basket are badly worn, they will need replacing (they can be hard plated and re-cut).
Does the pressure plate lift square? Pull the lever in whilst trying to turn the engine over with the kickstart. The pressure plate should be rotating 'flat' not wobbling. If it isn't lifting square you probably need new springs, but check that there aren't burrs on the clutch studs. The spring cups can stretch, but you can give them a squeeze in a vice (make sure they're still in the pressure plate).
The release lever can wear and need building up where it bears on the pushrod. The adjustment I use is as far out as possible without fouling the side case.
Paul Compton
http://www.morini-mania.co.uk
http://www.youtube.com/user/EVguru
http://www.morini-mania.co.uk
http://www.youtube.com/user/EVguru
When I rebuilt my 3 1/2 after a few years of ownership my dad showed me the best way of getting the flywheel off (assuming the thread on the puller and extractor are OK!). Screw in the puller as far as it will go - only hand tight - and then tighten up the centre puller bolt. Don't hang on it 'till your veins bulge but get a bit of tension on it. Then using a 2lb hammer give the centre bolt a sharp tap - not an almighty swing but a tap as though you were using a centre punch. This is usually enough to get the flywheel to jump off of the taper.
As dad was a fitter/turner he took a close interest in my activities to make sure I did it right - purely because he knew that I would only get him involved if I made a mess of things!!
I'm about to get down and dirty with the Coguaro as it didn't sound too healthy at the German Rally last year - may have run the mains or big ends (oops!!).
Good luck with the rotor extraction!
John.
As dad was a fitter/turner he took a close interest in my activities to make sure I did it right - purely because he knew that I would only get him involved if I made a mess of things!!
I'm about to get down and dirty with the Coguaro as it didn't sound too healthy at the German Rally last year - may have run the mains or big ends (oops!!).
Good luck with the rotor extraction!
John.
Thanks guys,the threads on the flywheel look to be OK,its the threads on the puller that are'nt,i've borrowed a small three leg puller from work ,i'll give that a go tomorrow,just hope i can get a grip !! (pun intended)...i don't fancy trying the welding method until all else fails.
As for the clutch problems ,that was all down to having the wrong lever/cable fitted...i'll keep you informed of how i get on.
Ta phil.
As for the clutch problems ,that was all down to having the wrong lever/cable fitted...i'll keep you informed of how i get on.
Ta phil.
How tight a fit was the puller, they're usually quite tight and need the threads cleaning to get the puller all the way in.jotapip wrote:Thanks guys,the threads on the flywheel look to be OK,its the threads on the puller that are'nt
You risk damaging the flywheel anyway with a three leg puller. There are fins on the back.i've borrowed a small three leg puller from work ,i'll give that a go tomorrow, just hope i can get a grip !! (pun intended)...i don't fancy trying the welding method until all else fails.
DO NOT hit the puller to try and shock the taper loose.
Paul Compton
http://www.morini-mania.co.uk
http://www.youtube.com/user/EVguru
http://www.morini-mania.co.uk
http://www.youtube.com/user/EVguru
The puller was screwed all the way into the flywheel,ie,leaving about 1/16in of threads left showing, and it was quite tight,i made sure everything was clean before i started,but as soon as i tried to put any real pressure on the centre bolt it just pulled itself out of the flywheel body..the puller threads appear to be aluminium??..the flywheel is steel.
Thanks for the sound advice ,but I don't intend to hit anything with a hammer.I just wondered if i would be able to get padded puller legs behind the flywheel ,i am aware that it is finned,the last thing i want to do is damage anything.
Phil.
Thanks for the sound advice ,but I don't intend to hit anything with a hammer.I just wondered if i would be able to get padded puller legs behind the flywheel ,i am aware that it is finned,the last thing i want to do is damage anything.
Phil.
Managed to get the flywheel off this morning,with careful use of a 3 leg puller,theres just enough room to get the thin legs behind it whilst missing the fins,removed the belt,it looks like a new one,oh well ,better safe than sorry.
While i was in the vicinity i for checked play in the crank,it feels pretty solid and the seal looks Ok too.Fitted new belt making sure that the timing marks were aligned etc.
I owned a couple of Morini's quite a few years ago,and i'd almost forgotten how strightforward they are to work on,i think with a little more work this bike will be well worth the small amount i paid for it,a lot of fun for not much dosh!.
Phil.
While i was in the vicinity i for checked play in the crank,it feels pretty solid and the seal looks Ok too.Fitted new belt making sure that the timing marks were aligned etc.
I owned a couple of Morini's quite a few years ago,and i'd almost forgotten how strightforward they are to work on,i think with a little more work this bike will be well worth the small amount i paid for it,a lot of fun for not much dosh!.
Phil.
Hi All,its been a while since my last post,the kanguro is just about sorted and is used as an every day commuter ,(about 40 miles a day),i think because it hadnt been used for a while it has benefited from regular use.
Anyway with all the miles i'm doing on it,it has highlighted the small size of the fuel tank,i'm only managing to get around 90 miles before reserve,i think i read somewhere that the bigger tanks off later models would fit mine,can anyone shed any truth on this?and if so does anyone have one for sale?
And while i'm at it i would also like to ask if anyone has a spare speedo drive that screws into the hub,all in all i'm pretty pleased with the bike ,it seems to be a fairly tough cookie!
phil.
Anyway with all the miles i'm doing on it,it has highlighted the small size of the fuel tank,i'm only managing to get around 90 miles before reserve,i think i read somewhere that the bigger tanks off later models would fit mine,can anyone shed any truth on this?and if so does anyone have one for sale?
And while i'm at it i would also like to ask if anyone has a spare speedo drive that screws into the hub,all in all i'm pretty pleased with the bike ,it seems to be a fairly tough cookie!
phil.