MX 580 manual

Camel, Sahara, Kanguro, Coguaro
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hombre
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MX 580 manual

Post by hombre »

Hi guys, found this on the Italian site:
http://www.morinispecial.it/joomla/ango ... titec.html

Direct link:
http://www.morinispecial.it/joomla/imag ... _MX580.pdf

Might come in handy when rebuilding the Camelshocks
'It must be a .....'
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Re: MX 580 manual

Post by 'It must be a .....' »

Excellent, now I can give my MX 580s a service with the confidence that I'll do it right, provided I can source any spare parts I might need, many thanks, Ian
devon wrinklie
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Re: MX 580 manual

Post by devon wrinklie »

Likewise, a great find. Another excuse to spend time in the shed.
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hombre
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Re: MX 580 manual

Post by hombre »

I got a set with the right rubbers, gaskets etc from an Italian source through eBay, so I can finally put them together as they should too :-)
Derek Wright
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Re: MX 580 manual

Post by Derek Wright »

Excellent, nice to have details for these shocks, just got to find a source for a spares kit.
The shocks on my Mk1 have been ok so far, the bike being on the road for 2 years now but would like to do the remote resevoirs if I could.
I had a bit of a problem with the shocks bottoming out when two up ( bike used as roadster, to old for off road stuff ) but as there is no pre - load adjustment I made spacers and fitted them between the existing spacer on the top of the units ( resevoir end) and the top collar. I made an annular spacer 8 mm thick which I think equates to about the same as one step on adjustable units, works fine, no more bottoming out.
As the spacer is approx 52 mm bore by 62 mm od by 8 mm thick ( can't remember exactly) it would have required quite a lot of hand work to make, not having access to a lathe, I opted to have the spacers laser cut. I found the supplier on ebay and they were very helpful, initially I wanted to use aluminium but they said that that the finish would be poor on such a small item so I went for mild steel and the finish was excellent with only a minimum of dressing, quite reasonable too, less than a tenner for the pair.
So if anyone needs any laser cut parts it may be worth contacting them - LaserMaster of Redruth, Cornwall, username on ebay is profilemen, e.mail contact - linda@lasemaster.co.uk.
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hombre
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Re: MX 580 manual

Post by hombre »

That sounds good, I have a set with longer pistonshafts on them and cut up two old headstockbearings to make some kind of spacer...

P.s. too old for offroad use? ;)

Image

(okay I only did one lap, but the bike still wanted to go)
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corsaro chris
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Re: MX 580 manual

Post by corsaro chris »

Hombre;

That's a great photo - and it's so good to see the bike in a proper environment (place)!

Good riding,

CC
"I'll use the Morini"
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hombre
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Re: MX 580 manual

Post by hombre »

Thanks, it was so muddy that I did only one lap, and the bike already looked like this! My friend's XT carried about 20 kg of mud with him :shock:
It was fun though, so much different than I am used to, but I need a lot of practice to get it right...
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hombre
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Re: MX 580 manual

Post by hombre »

Hi guys,

I am taking the MX 580's apart and am wondering how to get inside the bushing unit? It's number 19.10 804002 that you can see in the parts drawing.
There is a bushing and an oil seal in there so it should be do-able?
'It must be a .....'
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Re: MX 580 manual

Post by 'It must be a .....' »

Hi Hombre, is the 'bushing unit' also referred to as the 'pilot boss' in the MX 580 manual? FIGs 9, 10 & 11? Is the problem that your bushing unit/pilot boss (19 10) is stuck in the locking plug (15 07)?
if so it's probably stuck on by the seal unless there is some corrosion.
Hopefully you've sorted it already.

Noticed that in the PDF manual that FIGs 3 & 4 are missing.

Good luck, Ian
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hombre
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Re: MX 580 manual

Post by hombre »

Thanks Ian, it's the part that I have indicated in this pic. It looks like one piece but you can see a bushing and an oil seal in there. Since they are in the kit I want to replace them but can't seem to split it up without damaging it...
Image
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hombre
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Re: MX 580 manual

Post by hombre »

I knew it was possible. But even here in these peaceful Morini-surroundings I had to use violence :twisted:

Anyway, after making a hole in a piece of wood big enough to keep the largest part of the unit in place I was able to hit the small bushing hard so the entire unit came apart. Some heat helped too. It's detained by a spring so how it's supposed to be removed in a normal fashion stays a mystery.

Here it is, in two bits with the O-ring revealed. Obviously the small bushing is no longer usable, but in the revision-kit is a new one.

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