Timing belt in Cheshire

[mia350]

Hello,

I have a new belt to fit and would like to do it myself with a little bit of assistance. Looking for someone, with the right tools for the job, not too far from Cheshire to guide me. Have seen the German web page on the subject but not really any help.

Regards, Mia 350.

[EVguru]

The procedure has been described several times on the forum, try using the search facility.

This is pretty recent;

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1451

[mia350]

Hi,
When i joined the MRC i was hoping ot use the club tools, then ask someone to watch over my shoulder to ensure i didn't do anything wrong. As the club no longer hire the tools out, i was hoping to find some one with the tools and to assist me.

Regards, Mia 350.

[moriniuk]

Where abouts in Cheshire are you?

[Bald Monkey]

Hi,
I am watching this thread as well as I have just taken ownership of a 78 sport which has stood idle for the last 10 years and I will be replacing the belt as well. Where did you get the belts from? which are the best type.

I live in Warrington Cheshire so if when you are doing yours, could I call over and look over your shoulder as well?

[MickeyMoto]

Hello,

The special tool is a puller which screws into the flywheel. I believe there is also another tool which holds the flywheel, but I have never needed this. I think you are wise to see how it is done if you are not confident. Once shown then it will be easier the next time.

The pullers are about a tenner and available from NLM and probably other stores too. Belts are also available from NLM. The belts were graded A, B or C, but not sure what is available, best to seek advice. Look in the club mag. (ATG), there is an advert near the back advertising pullers and belts.

Anybody know if the club has a stand at Stafford next weekend?

regards,

Mike.

[EVguru]

Most of the 'special' tools are only needed if you're doing an engine rebuild. If you've got the skills and confidence to do that, then you've probably also got the skills to make the special tools.

Club tool schemes are difficult to run, tools go missing, or are returned late and you need someone pretty active to keep track and make sure tools are actually available. Given its low cost and relatively regular use, a flywheel puller is simply a tool that you should buy and keep whilst you have a Morini. I think a rotary impact wrench (air or electric) is essential and wouldn't be without mine for general use, but you may want simply to borrow one.

It has to be one of the simplest belt changes there is once you've got the flywheel off.

I use Gates belts from a local stockist and they fit my B grade pulley just fine for a cost of about £5 inc. VAT.


There will indeed be stand at Stafford next weekend.

[mia350]

Hi,

Thanks all for replying. I live in Macclesfield. I bought the belt from George Lane, advertises in the club mag. Bald Monkey, you are welcome to come and watch once i source a puller. Might get my own, again George sells them.

To MickeyMoto....how do you manage to perform the job without a flywheel holder? I thought it may be possible to put the bike in gear with the rear brake applied to stop it rotating ? Or is that a no no??

Mia 350.

[EVguru]

With the use of a air impact wrench there's no need to use a flywheel holder when taking the flywheel nut off, you just hold the flywheel with one hand.

The puller has flats on it, so you're working one spanner against another, but most flywheels are ruluctant to release the taper and need persuasion. Some people think it's OK to abuse their crankshaft main bearings by hammering on the end of the puller to break the taper loose, but I again use an air impact wrench which only puts in a rotary shock and generally pops the flywheel off instantly. I appreciate that many people don't have air tools, but look out for the once yearly deals from the likes of ALDI (compressor kit £82, impact wrench £15). Alternatively look for a 12v electric wrench (good to keep in the car for puctures) which can be picked up for as little as £20.

When putting thigs back together, then using top gear and the rear brake, or using a strap wrench (used for oil filters) gets the job done.

[MickeyMoto]

In gear, son stands on brake, I work the spanners, and on the Morini's I've had the flywheel pops off. Forgot to mention, never hammer the end... ... and on reassembly ensure you secure the nut to the correct torque.

Mike.

[jfh]

I made a flywheel holder by cutting a hole in a piece of plywood (for access to the central flywheel nut). Then I put 3 bolts around the hole to slot in the three holes in the flywheel (some have two but same principle). This held the flywheel so I could undo the nut. Next - important - mark the pullys with tippex or paint so their relationship is exactly the same with new belt. I used a puller from a motocross shop. Lube the pullys with talc to ease belt on then turn engine over by hand to make sure all is well. Good luck.

[3potjohn]

Wood eh? I think this is a splendid idea -glad to see our neighbours utilising their natural resources for such a worthwhile task.
I use a thing with a rubber belt, used for opening lids etc but I like that wood approach.

[mia350]

Well that was easy!!

I made a flywheel holder out of a peice of 25mm x 5mm steel bar. Put 2 M8 X 40mm bolts through, worked fine. I have an electric start with 3 holes in the flywheel. My retaining 22mm nut was previously mangled outside and a little threaded inside. It was stiff comming off. Borrowed a 100mm ( 4" ) puller, needed a bit of tension but the flywheel came off okay. I have a 'B' pulley, but it had a 'C' belt fitted which was rather loose. The new belt is a lot better fit . Put it all back, but as the nut is poor just ordered a new one from NLM. Also borrowed a torque wrench to do the 22mm nut, 6.5 mkg or 47 lbft.

Thanks for all the input above.

Mia 350.

[SupermotoDave]

For all those of you who do up, or undo, the crank nut by locking the back brake, think about what you are doing to the gearbox shafts.
350s produce in the order of 32ft.lbf @ 5000. It is reasonable to assume the gearbox was designed to take this, but maybe not much more.(its not a Massey Ferguson)
Try putting lots more than that through shafts when they are stationary, and therefore more likely to be deformed, with gears that are basically wedges.
I'm not saying it will do damage but you might like to think about it.

Hate to be a doom monger and I'm probably wrong. I'd like to hear Paul's view on this.

David

[Bald Monkey]

I have been watching this thread as well and after a good look at others comments I decided to invest in a impact wrench to do the job.

All came apart very easy, I did not need to make our use a flywheel holder as I could easily hold it with one hand while I used the impact wrench with the other. Very easy.

The whole job took about 20 minutes, just remember to keep an eye on the order and orientation of the washers and I always use thread lock to re-assemble.

Just getting the tank and side panels resprayed, the seat recovered and it will be ready to go.