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OK, so for the idle to be too fast, something isn't right. There is too much air going in from somewhere. Have a look at the following for some more ideas. I will assume that the throttle stop screws are wound out to have no effect on the slides and the slides fully close in the bodies and that ther...

Timing: Yes, same as standard.
You are lucky enough to have the original pick up as the NLM one can be a difficult thing to set up.

As has been said quite often, are the slides in the right way round? (Cutaway towards air cleaner)
Easy mistake to make.

You have got the NLM ignition system on your bike. Well, at least part of it.
The bits in your picture are usually ok, it's the trigger part on the camshaft that can be awkward to set if you have that part as well.
Regards
George

Hi,
Regarding the red light, if you have an earlier bike, the most useful thing to do is to convert it to an indicator repeater light instead.
Regards,
George

Clutch lever mounts with mirror bosses are available, and to be honest, when you bought a Morini in 1978 (and earlier) that's all you got. No boss for RHS mirror. As a result, I'm with Mickey, with bar end mirror only. If you want to keep your existing lever, why not try a 'wanted' ad? Regards, George

Surely to call a Laverda Jota chopper 'nicely executed' is an oxymoron!

Firstly, the originals were definitely a stepped bolt, not stud&nut, but I believe that the large diameter part was a piece of tubing over the bolt as my original bolts stepped section disappeared when derusting whilst having it replated. This resulted in me using a long M8 bolt with with a sepa...

I wonder, if Soren has a drawing, that could be converted and made by 3D printing? It doesn't have to be too strong, just have holes in the right places. This would help people like the original poster who is unlikely to have much in the way of local support get the tool much more easily. Just a tho...

WARNING! If/when you strip it, DO NOT remove the spring hook plate from the crankcases unless you have access to the special tool to realign it properly. If not correctly aligned, you might not get all the gears, or you might be able to change up but not down. Get it wrong and it does mean a full st...

Early motors had weak (aluminium?) selector forks. These wear and can give symptoms like you describe. Cure is later model selector forks, or complete fork and drum assembly. Part numbers from parts book will guide you to what is and isn't interchangeable, but ask first if in any doubt. As has been ...

A very large contributor to this mid range flat spot is the Sport cam. It has a very large amount of overlap and a significantly late inlet valve closure point. This causes significant intake pulsation, which is why it goes so rich. As has been said before, Strada's don't do it to any great degree a...

Hi David, High idle speed could be due to slides hanging on the cables, (not sitting on throttle stop screws), float level too high - (adjustment or leaky float), or over advanced ignition. Running rich won't help either. Unlikely to be an air leak as starts without choke, but 'never say never', so ...

Hi, While I can't help re bobbins, I have to ask, how many laminations do you need them for? Machined flywheel type have less than cast flywheel/electric start ones, ie the metal bit is thinner on the earlier ones. Good idea you have there though. I'm sure there will be others very interested if you...

Hi Barney, Well known issue on the Sports. My belief is it is caused by the very late inlet cam closing, meaning a significant amount of the inlet charge goes back over the main jet and then back again, hence why it goes so rich. As you say, the Strada with a milder cam doesn't do it. Several 'solut...