MRC Forum- brought to you by www.morini-riders-club.com Member: g7AW3f

Another thing Oli, As an addition to your rebuild, you mentioned in CBG about M7 nuts and bolts. DW Middleton stainless sell them, in nyloc too. Perfectly ok for rocker trunnions and brake torque arms on Sports/Stradas. (Bolt only there to hold torque arm in place on welded on collar). It's only the...

Hi Oli, Where did you get the stainless ones from? The supplier needs to know that they aren't fit for purpose. Can you not return them? They shouldn't become expensive paperweights for you. Glad you resolved it without wrecking the head(s). Good luck and hope you don't have any more surprises on th...

Hi Oli. It suggests that the thread is not parallel on the stainless nuts. Can you measure the thread diameter at the beginning of the thread and closer to the plain section? This would give you a clue as to why it is jamming. The other scenario is whether the thread pitch is correct or not. Laying ...

It's always worth looking on ebay.it as well.
Do you have no barrels at all, or are yours at max oversize and need relining?

Regards George

It's always worth looking on ebay.it as well.
Do you have no barrels at all, or are yours at max oversize and need relining?

Regards George

Hi,
Personally I've not bothered to retorque the heads on my Morinis since the aluminium gaskets came into use, and haven't had one leak yet due to torque relaxation.

Exhaust port nuts are another story however, as they need tightening a few times during the first hot engine runs.

Regards,
George

Hi, Regarding pins 3 and 4, these should only connect when the ignition switch is in the off position, ie to stop the engine. When running, the green will need to be open circuit, ie. not connected to anything otherwise it won't run. For anyone else wishing/wanting to recondition their switch, go sp...

Whereabouts are you? I bought a Camino switch for my Strada but managed to save the original switch.
Hence, if you want it, you can have it.
I'm in Northampton.
Regards
George

Whilst I have no experience of the power dynamo set up, the important bit is what is the battery getting? If it is 13v controlled ( ie vcr out) at idle, thats not too bad. The usual thing to check is at what rpm does it balance out with the lights on. The original (non electric start) models with 10...

I used a long 8mm bolt with a piece of tubing over it to take up the clearance between fork leg and bolt.
10mm tube isn't too difficult to get.
Regards,
George

I believe that Mark Bridger of this parish has repaired one, but concluded that it isn't commercially viable to do so (?).
Only other help may be to look up 'Ferrari Dino' rev counter repair as they are very similar inside.

Yes. Original neoprene bit had a conical face towards the cover, more recent ones are straight. Conical needed around 1mm 'compression', newer type nearer 2mm.

The originals on my 1978 were clear/opaque plastic, approx 5mm bore. In its time, mine has had fish tank air hose, black rubber pipe and currently has PTFE hose with rubber 90° elbows on it. As long as it flows some air and any emulsified oil can escape it will be ok.

Hi, Whilst no one has replied, I know that some people with way more knowledge than me have done a repair/rebuild of these, but it isn't an easy job. The most recent posting on this subject was that somebody replaced the 'guts' inside with those from a cheap Chinese generic rev counter for very litt...

If they were mine, I say it depends on how and where they have been stored. Sealed away from light and excessive temperatures they should be ok. Hanging on a nail on the shed wall and it's a no-no. I fitted a 4 year old belt last year, to my Sport but it had ben kept in the sealed poly bag it came i...