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Morning Tim, As jfh says, this tool does the job of holding toothed sprockets, clutch centres and alternator/generator rotors. A couple of spot welds over the swaged ends of the pins doesn't go amiss. I also use mine on Ducati singles for locking up the crankshaft when putting 60 ft/lb torque on the...

Thank you for your reply Paul. Does that then mean that I don't need to concern myself with the type of Vespa/Lambretta trigger coil that I use, as they are available as both black and red units? :?: Does your suggestion of using electrical resistance to control the advance, rather than the angle of...

Good morning Gentlemen, Resistance between the green output cable from the low tension ignition coil and the stator ring is 478 Ohms, on my stator. Resistance between the red output cable from the black magnetic trigger coil and the stator ring is 110 Ohms, on my stator. Both readings are taken at a...

Good morning Mickey, I had a Kanguro that did the same. Until, one day, it stopped at a junction and would not restart. The magneto coil had finally broken down. The low loader of shame had to be called. So, did you replace the coil yourself or did you send the stator away to have somebody else do t...

Aye Micky, thank you for your additional comments, it all helps. I have never had a problem acheiving a steady tickover @~1,100rpm. The problem has always been either a reluctance to rev, or once revving a sudden lack of power or the engine cuts out completely and then refuses to start unless left t...

Thank you Ming for giving me the information of where to look for the resistor values. I am not sure if my soldering skills are up to the job of replacing the low tension coil, or whether my Gunson meter is up to the job of making the relevant tests once I replace the coil. I will post updates on th...

Thank you Paul for your quick response. I note the test that you suggest for "magnetic saturation", as the rotor was very hot after the less than a minute of running last night. Initially when running on the road and trying to diagnose the problem, a misfire and blubbering of the engine co...

Aye Paul, thank you for offering another scenario. However, when carrying out the tests from the Blue book and others suggested by Mark, there was no indication of any problems/shorts with the charging coils, rectifier/regulator, or between the ignition/lighting circuits through the ignition switch....

Aye Mark, Now, after an afternoon and evening of testing, I am even more confused! :roll: I fixed a piece of masking tape on the rotor circumference and marked up the PMS and ANT marks along with a revised ANT2 that is two thirds of the circumferential difference between PMS and ANT, to the right of...

Aye Mark,

Thank you for the clarification "move the stator clockwise 12 degrees relative to the rotor (so trigger is later)", in my head that makes sense!

Now to implement it.

Good health, Bill

Morning Ming, ....in effect you need to move from ANT towards PMS if I understand Mark correctly.... That is why I find this sort of modification not easy. I think that I do not need to make any new marks on the periphery of the rotor. The current ANT timing mark on the periphery of the rotor appear...

Mark and Ming, thank you gentlemen, I think I understand the process! :oops: But and it's a BIG BUT, which way do I need to move the stator? Moving the stator to the right (clockwise) when viewed from the right-hand side of the engine, I think, as the direction of crankshaft rotation is clockwise? :...

Aye Mark, Therefore to start you need to move the pickup to retard the ignition by at least 12 degrees - you can calculate this using schoolboy maths, or by proportion of ANT to PMS(0) on the rotor periphery. My Achilles heel, maths, arithmetic so, so, but trig, algebra, etc. difficult! I think that...

A plea for information please! I have a 1979 125H, with cast wheels and rescued from the Isle of Cumbrae in the Clyde, about 15 years ago. When first purchased the engine was reluctant to pull above 40mph and the bike was put to the back of the workshop. This year after wrestling with a recalcitrant...

Hello Joe, Try soaking the whole lower assembly in a mixture of diesel and paraffin (50:50) for at least a week. Then apply heat to just the aluminium casting. There is also a very good release fluid in a spray can 'Bulldog BDX' that I have found to be very effective at freeing seized parts. Link: B...