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Mine are a 350 sport, another 350 sport and another 350 sport; it’s a long story, plus a 9000ss Ducati (1994), another 900ss Ducati, this time a bevel of 1982, and a 700 Transalp which does everything better than it should for a 16 year old budget bike. John, is that the Peter Hammond of Cirencester...

I agree the Guzzi museum is worth a visit if you’re in the vicinity.

Just bought the splitter on eBay.
Thanks for the heads up Dunk.

Yes, Germany and Italy are good sources, just a shame that so many good places I’ve bought from in the UK are now financially unviable.
I assume others in the EU are experiencing the same problems, or maybe these extremely high taxes are only being levied by France?

Given I’m in France and have been seriously stung on imports from the UK since Brexit (£27 speedo drive from Mdina cost €83 by the time it got here) I’ve got to buy in the EU but have sourced a Motobatt as described by Tom despite them not being so commonly available here.
Thanks for all the advice.

Hi Mick, no, I’m not resistant to change, no subliminal message was intended.
Technology moves on so I’m thinking maybe there’s a better option out there than what I was advised to use 20 years ago.
Price wise I’m open to suggestions.

What’s the current thinking re the best battery for the 350K, ie, turning the starter motor.
For the last 20 years I’ve used a Yuasa YB18 L or similar which has been fine although it still needs to be tip top for the starter to work.
Any ideas on anything better these days?

I have a 19mm with the screw in switch as an example and it looks like it may be possible to tap the 16mm m/cyl in the same place although there is more meat at that point on the 19mm unit which is otherwise an identical casting. In legal terms it’s gratifying to see the info you dug up Tom as my bi...

Thanks for that clarification Steve.
No way have I got room for one of those banjo switches and I’ve just fitted two new lines so don’t fancy buying a new set of three with a splitter, assuming I could find a splitter anyway.
Hmmm, back to the shed.

My 19mm m/c is exactly the same casting as the 16mm one (except the piston bore of course) but whereas the 19 has the cylindrical screw in switch on the lever mount the 16 doesn’t have the threaded hole to fit the switch. I imagine there must be some other way to solve the problem or this type of m/...

My 16mm m/c, unlike the later 18/19 mm has no electric hook up for a front brake light.
If I use this on my K1 what’s the recommended solution?
What did the 1970’s bikes fitted with these master cylinders have?

All very interesting. I have a 16mm from a single disc bike so I’ll try that first. I also have a problem with the double banjo for the Grimeca colliding with the clock (I have the earlier console fitted) but the smaller single banjo clears it so it’s looking like I’ll start off trying 16mm/single d...

Thanks for the replies. It sounds like either of the original master cylinders may be better than a small aftermarket unit in the case of double discs. I actually have examples of both so if new seals work it looks like I already have what’s needed. Like John’s bike my 350K has no splitter, neither ...

Ok. Frivolities over, back to the shed. My €400 project K1 purchase 6 years ago is now approaching completion. So far it’s only cost me about €1,000 more than if I’d let someone else restore it and then bought it off them. :D I’ve got it from no brakes at all to useable stopping via new HEL lines, p...

P.S. The Honda R218M is called Radiant Red.